c 

FLOWEKS 

THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

■WITH INSTEUCTIOXS ON THE CULTURE OP 

OEXAMENTAL lEEES, SHEUBS, &c., dc. 



BY ELIZABETH WATTS, 

ACTHOK OF "VEGETABLES, AND HOW TO GEOW THEJI." 



LONDOK: 
FREDERICK WARNE & CO,, 

BEDFORD STREET, COTEXT GAEDEIS'. 
186/. 




b 

PKEFACE AND DEDICATION. 

i 

f 'Whe:s* I began to write this little book, and to reckon 
what its readers would most require in it, I looked back 
to the time, some years ago now, when we first owned a 
garden, rather large in size for Middlesex, and, like 
hundreds similarly placed, sorely stood in need of the 
exact, though concise information it contains ; and I 
have tried to arrange it so that it will meet the wants 
of this numerous class. If they find it lessen the 
difficulties that stood in our way in cultivating our 
flowers when we first had a garden, I shall be satisfied. 

As the little work is intended for the many rather 
than for the scientific few, I have as much as possible 
avoided botanical names and technicalities, only in- 
troducing them when general identification seemed to 
render it necessary. 

To all who own a flower garden and delight in flowers 
I dedicate Flowees a^d the Plowek Gaeden, and 
hope they will find it useful. 

E. W. 



CONTENTS, 



Chapter Page 
I. Pleasure Gardens 

II. Laying out of the Garden 8 

III. The Tool-house and its Contents , , • ,14 
lY. Ornamental Trees and Evergreens . . . . 20 
V. Ornamental Shrubs and Climbers , . „ .27 
YI. Hardy Handsome Foliage Plants . . . .87 
YII. Tender Handsome Foliage Plants . . . ,43 
VIII. Roses : Gro"<;v-t.h and Propagation .... 51 
IX. Roses : their Culture 59 

X. Florists' Flowers : Anemones, Calceolarias, Carnations, 

Chrysanthemums, Cinerarias . . . .65 

XI. Florists' Flowers : Dahlias, Fuchsias, Hyacinths, 

Pansies, Pelargoniums ..... 74 
XIL Florists' Flowers ; Petunias, Phloxes, Auriculas, &c., 
Ranunculuses, Tulips, Yerbenas, and American 

Plants . 84 

XIII. Bedding Plants . . . ... . .94 

XI Y. Bulbs, Tubers, &c. . . . . . .106 

XY. Annuals . ' " . 116 

XYI. Perennials and Biennials 126 

XYII. Garden Adjuncts, the Greenhouse, and the Window . 136 
XYIII. Garden Decorations ...... 143 

XIX. Garden Operations in January . . . .151 

XX. Garden Operations in February . . . .156 

XXI. Garden Operations in ]\Iarch . . , . .159 
XXII. Garden Operations in April . . o « .162 
XXIII. Garden Operations in ]\Iay . . . , .165 
XXI Y. Garden Operations in June . , . . .166 
XX Y. Garden Operations in July . . o . .171 
XXYL Garden Operations in August . . ... .173 

XXYII. Garden Operations in September , . . .176 
XXYIII. Garden Operations in October ..... 179 

XXIX. Garden Operations in November and December . 181 



•FLOWERS 

AND 

THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



CHAPTEE i: 

PLEASUEE GARDENS. 

The Pleasure Garden, in all its various forms, can 
scarcely fail to be the delight, the occupation, the pride, 
the glory of the English gentlewoman. It is work for 
the idle and recreation for the busy- "Whatever our 
station renders desirable in either shape we may get 
among flowers, trees, and shrubs ; and there all the 
good qualities so paramount in the women of England 
find scope. A well cared for garden displays — and dis- 
plays to good advantage too — the love of home, domestic 
taste, a wish to please, industry, neatness, taste, and 
all the sweet household virtues that create home where- 
ever good women rule, and that make Englishmen, 
when blessed with such as wives or relatives, so fond of 
it and of them. Nor is it ladies only that find, in 
gardening, employment for mind and hands, giving 
ample return in gratification, health, and pleasure ; for 
the master too, if he be a man of taste and feeling, 
likes it no less : only, gardening and the love of a 
garden are not solitary pleasures ; and I do not think 
any owner — or gardener either, for the matter of that — 
ever really delights in it unless those whose smiles are 
as pleasant to him as the fragrance of the flowers, do so 

B 



2 



TLOWEES AND THE TLOWEE GAEDElf. 



too. To the little ones of the family also, the value of 
the garden may have no limit : give a little boy or a 
little girl a bit of ground to call his own or her own, 
and encourage the young owner to cultivate it well, and 
it may be the nursery of all the good qualities that I 
have named, and many more. 

One great merit in horticulture is, that it confines 
itself to no rank, and that it may form the amusement 
or the pursuit alike of great and small, rich and poor ; 
only, the kind of garden we choose, what we do with 
the land which we have at command, must depend on 
those extraneous circumstances to which we all have 
to submit. 

The Landscape Garden is perhaps the most preten- 
tious, since it demands not only an extensive, but a varied, 
site. Those, however, who happen to have a rough 
piece of ground to bring into cultivation, can devote 
their knowledge and prescience to create from it a 
pleasure ground of varied and great beauty, by contriviog 
the planting to humour the accidents of the ground, and 
by altering the ground to assist the plantations, thickets, 
shrubberies, and vegetation of dilferent kinds. Trees and 
shrubs planted in large or small groups, or singly ; taste- 
ful openings to show distant peeps of scenery, wherever 
such happen to be at command ; promontories reached 
by rough rustic stairs, now seen, now hidden ; faces of 
cliffs, in some parts densely draped with foliage, in others 
shaped into little flats, planted with groups of plants of 
bold foliage, hollowed out into caverns and grottoes, 
adorned with picturesque erections, or left in naked rug- 
gedness, helped by the hand of man to an angle taking 
the finest sunset tints, — will lead on such a bit of ground 
to a very beautiful landscape garden. The top of the 
height may be shaped into terrace walks, approached 
from below at intervals by gradual ascents and rustic 
stairs ; and half way up and near the bottom, summer- 
houses, aviaries, grottoes, little caves, arbours, and seats 
of various form, may at once please the eye and utilize 
the position by offering pleasant places for rest, and cool 
or warm refreshment to suit all seasons. Little hills can 



LAI^"DSCAPE GAEDENS. 



3 



be tinted and varied by winding devious gravel paths, 
and diverse vegetation ; and flat parts may have ponds 
for water fowl, surrounded by rising ground planted as 
shrubberies. Sheets of water, the largest at command, 
must on no account be absent from the landscape garden. 
In fact, there is no end to the beauties which the gardener 
may press into his service in working a rough bit of 
ground, including high ground and low, into cultivation. 

In such ground ultra-precise gardening would be out 
of place. The paths should be kept neat, but they do 
not need a border : the undergrowth of trees and shrubs 
at their edge will in many places make the best-looking 
border they can have ; and where they leave patches that 
would look bare, grass may be encouraged to grow, and 
wild and other hardy flower roots which the locality will 
suit may be planted. Lilies of the valley, wood ane- 
mones, primroses, periwinkle, and all shade-loving, free- 
flowering roots may be used for this purpose. The trees 
and shrubs for clumps and shrubberies must be chosen 
according to the space at command. If the shrubbery 
or space to be planted be not large, variety should be 
studied : plant only one tree and shrub of a kind. If, 
on the contrary, the ground to be planted be extensive, 
with varieties in the formation of the ground, group the 
trees, &c., in masses of several of a sort in one group, and 
let no one group be like another. In planting the ground 
think of the future : plant as sparsely as you may, the 
trees and shrubs will require thinning out ivitliin five 
years, but they should be so planted as not to get 
overcrowded much sooner than that. I remember a 
shrubbery walk the outline of which always seemed to 
me very pretty and picturesque, and would have done if 
the dear name of home had not appertained to its locality. 
The walk turned off at an angle from the entrance gate, 
and took a zigzag course, hidden in its own shrubbery, 
round a wide deep lawn, and led to a side entrance some 
distance from the house. At the corner, by the gate, a 
fine horse-chestnut towered over every other tree (except 
the poplar and the larch) ; on a bank, covered with peri- 
winkle and St. John's wort, on the side of the path 

B 2 



4 TLOWEES AND THE PLOWEE GAEDEiN". 

opposite to it (so as to look before it from the windows of 
the house), stood a fine round evergreen oak. Then came 
thick bushy lilacs on the farther side of the path, and 
under them, divided from them by the path, low laurels ; 
then one Lombardy poplar tapered up into the sky, and 
farther on, flanked on each side by bashy laurels, was a 
remarkably fine weeping ash ; a wide division in the 
laurels before it laid it open in view of the windows, 
and some little way beyond it again a larch rose tall and 
graceful. Lilacs, syringas, snowberries, a birch, labur- 
nums, lilacs, and another dense cluster of snowberries, 
on the one side, and double furze, pink acacia, and more 
laburnums, on the other, led on to the corner. After 
these the path turned the corner and went on its course 
between tall trees on the one hand, and low bushes on 
the other, until it diverged to the side gate amid Corclioriis 
and ivy on the one hand, and the flower garden on the 
other. The outline of the shrubbery was varied and 
pretty, and in that it deserves to be taken as a model. 
A landscape garden, to be fully carried out, needs an 
extensive piece of ground; but its principles may be 
brought to bear on a rough bit, whatever be the size. 

Gardens in the Italian style also need sufficient space, 
for if anything of this kind be attempted in a medium- 
sized back garden there will be great danger of its de- 
generating into a tea-garden-like assemblage of fountains, 
parapets, and pedestals, or at any rate of incurring the 
odium often bestowed on Cockney gardens. A varied 
surface favours this kind, as it should have facilities for 
being constructed with terraces, and raised positions for 
temples, fountains, and such like ornaments. One of its 
characteristics is stone, or stucco, as the case may be. 
Terraces with parapets, flights of steps, balustrades, urns, 
and vases ; fountains of every shape and make ; temples 
and erections of all and every kind, viaducts, tunnels, 
and all appliances of the kind that man ever invented to 
put into a garden, appertain to it. An Italian garden 
agrees well with a house of formal architecture, whence 
it may be reached by steps descending from a terrace 
stretching along the front. The flower beds in such 



ITALIAN" GAEDENS. GEOMETBIC GAEDENS. 5 

gardens are formal m character, edged with stone (or au 
imitation of it), and each filled with flowers of one or 
two kinds. Care and taste in filling the vases are neces- 
sary, as, if the flowers in them are shabby, it will quite 
spoil the efi'ect. Plants of a drooping growth, hanging 
carelessly over the edge of the vases, or light graceful 
creepers led up the pillars, will assist the general pretty 
appearance and prevent disagreeable formality. ISTume- 
rous groups of ornamental trees and shrubs should be so 
placed as to aid the general eff'ect. 

The Geometric Garden, in which the beds appear to 
have been marked out with rule and compass, to suit 
which shrubs and evergreens should be kept clipped into 
form, has given place to the more fanciful symmetrical 
parterre, in which the beds twist about each other, and 
fit into each other in set pattern only a degree less for- 
mal than squares, parallelograms, and triangles. The 
ancient art of cutting trees and shrubs into curious 
forms, called Topiary, was done by placing a shape of 
wirework over the tree to be trimmed, and clipping to it. 

The symmetrical parterre is in small beds, generally of 
fantastic form, cut out in a lawn or separated by paths. 
It has of late years become such a favourite that it is now 
the kind of flower garden most in use of any kind. The 
beds are of set form, side agreeing with side, and end 
with end ; and the colouring is massed by planting each 
little bed with one flower, or with two or three only, set 
into large patches, or with a centre of one colour and a 
border of another. In planting this garden the whole 
of the bed is to be covered, so as to present to the eyo 
one mass of colour of the shape it bears. Vases placed 
in set form, and fountains, are in character. In making 
a plan for a garden of this kind it is well to avoid long 
sharp angles, and very narrow bits, from the difficulty of 
keeping the plants within bounds, and also of main- 
taining the form in clipping the edges. A method that 
has sometimes been resorted to in diminishing pictures 
will be found of great help in shaping beds. Draw the 
plan on paper, taking care that its four quarters, or two 
sides, as the case may be, agree exactly, which may be 



6 



FLOWEES A.^T> THE TLOWEE GAEDEK. 



done by a tyro, by folding the paper and pricking 
through ; then divide the paper into squares, and mark 
out the ground into the same number of squares ; and 
simple measuring will do the rest. If the beds be 
separated by paths, not cut out on grass, they must 
be edged with well-kept box. If a garden of this 
kind be surrounded by a border, that may be planted 
with tall-growing vegetation — such as ornamental trees, 
shrubs, standard roses, and plants of a like height, but 
for the beds themselves low-growing things will have the 
best effect. The highest should not exceed the height 
of a rosebush ; and it is a general practice to peg down 
most of the plants, so as to maintain quite a low surface. 
The corresponding beds of the two sides, and even of 
the four quarters, should agree exactly, and the flowers 
chosen should be of kinds which bloom abundantly. 
There is no kind of garden which requires more exact 
care, as extreme neatness should especially characterize it. 
It looks very poor if some of the beds are behind others 
in flowering, and others only partially full of plants and 
flowers, or if the edges are not exactly kept. In the 
spring a symmetrical garden planted with bulbs is 
very bright and gay ; but in this case either the bulbs 
must be sacrificed when they have done flowering, or 
the use of the garden given up for a portion of the year 
afterwards. This, however, may be obviated by planting 
the bulbs in pots, and sinking them. 

The old-fashioned English flower garden wdll always 
have many friends. The landscape garden is for the 
rich, or, at any rate, for the owner of an extensive piece of 
ground. The Italian garden appertains appropriately to 
mansions, and requires expensive mason's work, hydraulic 
apparatus, and plenty of gardeners to keep it in the trim 
order without which it conveys more idea of shabbmess 
than the humblest garden of smaller pretensions. The 
geometric garden must come down to as from ages back, 
or it is nothing. Its clipped trees, yew hedges, formal 
paths, and stately growth are the creation of centuries. 
The symmetrical flower garden needs a greenhouse or a 
long purse to supply plants in suflScient numbers for its 



THE OLD-FASHIONED FLOWER GAEDEK. 7 

requirements, and a gardener to keep it in the exact 
order without which it will never show to good advan- 
tage. But the simple flower garden, with its protecting 
screen of trees (where there is space for them), its lively 
pretty flowering shrubs, its rich clusters of perennials, 
its standard roses and rosebushes of all varieties, its 
flowers of graduated heights, descending to low bright 
varied pinks, pansies, carnations, cloves, and all that is 
bright and sweet, and, above all, its constant succession 
of flowers, mixing them up, as Xature does, with plenty 
of green, is much less exigeant. Life is not made up of 
great patches of brightness ; and it does not seem that 
gay flowers were ever intended to be planted so, but 
were meant to come like our brightest moments, de- 
tached and resting in repose — green foliage. "Whoever 
owns a little bit of ground, industry to work in it, and 
the wish to make it pretty, may have a flower garden. 
Even Dirk Hatterick could reckon on spending his ill- 
gotten gains on a " Blumengarten " ; and there are cer- 
tainly none so rough that they cannot be softened with 
the beauties of Nature, none so dull that they cannot be 
cheered by them. The plain flower garden, with its 
border round, its beds of just any convenient shape, its 
lawn, if there be room for one, and the ease with which 
its work can be done, is especially suitable to those who 
cultivate their own flower gardens. In the arrange- 
ment of these gardens the highest things should stand 
at the back of the borders, and in the centres of the 
beds. The plants in front or around should be in bold 
clumps, and should stand well apart, and the earth 
between should be well weeded and neatly raked. In 
planting it is necessary to calculate time and space. 
Consider the time of flowering of all that is put in the 
garden, so that all seasons as they come round may have 
flowers in bloom, well spaced about the garden, with 
tolerable regularity. Consider the space which the plants 
planted and the seeds sown will take when they grow 
up. In planting and sowing look forward not less than 
two months, and plant and sow in such a manner that 
the borders shall not be overcrowded at the end of that 



8 



PLOWERS ANB THE ELOWEE GAEDEN. 



time. The plain flower garden is the especial theatre 
for choice roses ; for the recesses among trees and shrubs, 
sheltered, sunny nooks, and warm borders of various 
aspect, offer good places for all degrees of hardihood, 
height, and size. Tine herbaceous plants, too, of which 
we have such endless variety, have every facility in 
gardens where plants of all heights are wanted and can 
be well placed. 

The sort of garden on which we decide, among those 
I have named, and many other kinds, must depend on 
the size of the ground at command, the climate in which 
it stands, its aspect, surface, and soil ; also on the money 
and labour which we wish to bestow on our horticul- 
tural pursuits. Most persons who take to gardening, 
however, have no power of choice in the matter, but follow 
after others, take in hand the garden which happens to 
come to hand, and make the best of it. Those who 
make the best of it, whether in the affairs of life or the 
affairs of the garden, are pretty sure to do well and 
prosper. If we take a garden already in cultivation, 
much uncertainty in decision will be spared us. Let us 
iu this instance go to work with caution, and take care 
how we destroy ; for old gardens may have many trees 
and roots well worth saving which do not look so at 
first sight. 



CHAPTEE II. 

THE LATII^G OVT OP THE GAEDEIST. 

The kind of fencing is a matter of less importance in 
the flower than in the kitchen garden, provided it offer 
good protection and be pleasant to the eye. It must 
also be sufficiently substantial to ward off biting winds 
and live intruders. 
A wall is an ugly thing in a flower garden, although a 



WALLS. FTJEZE WALLS. WISE FEIfCINa. HEDGES. 9 

good protector. To hide its unseemliness, it may be 
covered with ornamental creepers, or with fruit trees, 
which none can think an eyesore anywhere. A wooden 
fence, for its own duration and to keep it from being a 
harbour for insects, should be well tarred. Almost all 
walls, for their own protection and that of the trees and 
plants trained against them, should have a coping at the 
top to project a little beyond their surface, thus preventing 
the rain from soaking into the substance of the wall, and 
trickling down its sides to the injury of the plants. A 
wall of earth by itself has not the power of withstanding 
wear and tear for a length of time ; but if it have the 
protection of a lattice against it and a coping at the top, 
it may do. A wall of turf, also, may be made lasting 
under proper treatment. Let it be three feet wide at 
the bottom, tapering to fifteen inches at the top, and sow 
it well with furze seed, which may be bought at the 
seedsman's at Is. 6d» per pound. When the furze grows, 
clip it, and keep the whole surface regularly clipped, and 
in time it will be like a good-looking green wall. Orna- 
mental wire fencing is neat, and does very well, provided 
a more substantial screen be not required for shelter. 
Evergreen hedges always look nice, bright, and pretty, 
and with the constant care they are likely to get if their 
home is the flower garden, they are sure to do well : 
they are thick when shelter is most needed, and almost 
all the year round form a pleasant screen for the eye to 
rest on, and a good background for bright vegetation and 
gay flowers. Laurel, yew, and holly, are all good, as are 
also the evergreen privet and box, if the locality be one 
which favours its growth. Many recommend mixing in 
the hedge flowering trees and shrubs, such as laurustinus, 
Cydonia Japonica (formerly known as Firus Japonica), 
flowering currant, and double-blossomed furze; but for 
the convenience of keeping the hedges constantly 
clipped, it is better to plant such trees apart from the 
hedge, although they may be placed in front of it, so as 
to break its uniformity. A hedge of ivy, trained in a 
thick mass over an open paling or wire fence, forms a 
good background. It has the advantage that any inex- 



10 TLOWEES AKD THE rLOWER GAEDEN. 



pensive fence under it will do, provided it have strength 
to bear the weight and to stand against the wind. 

Deciduous hedges are not good, as, from being bare of 
leaves in the winter, they fail to give shelter when it ia 
most needed. Some one stated (I think in the Cottage 
Gardener) that a hedge of hawthorn is worse than use- 
less for shelter, as the cold wind positively becomes colder 
in passing through it, from the moisture retained in the 
foliage. 

For gravel paths, complete drainage is only necessary 
m a very damp locality, or where there is a great rush 
of water from higher ground near at hand. In such 
cases a system of tile-draining to the paths may be 
requisite. G-enerally, however, a thick substratum of 
draining material, laid in when the paths are made, will 
suflBce. Shape out the paths exactly, and remove the 
earth in their whole course to the depth of eighteen 
inches, making a clean square trench. Then spread 
stones, oyster shells, and collections of rubbish, consist- 
ing of broken crockery and such like hard material, or 
burnt brick clay, so as to fill the trench ; let this lie for 
a time, ramming it down repeatedly. After a few days, 
or a few weeks, according to weather and labour bestowed, 
there will be a space of six or seven inches above it to 
the top of the trench. Lay on a layer of coarse gravel, 
from four to six inches thick, and let it be well rammed 
down and rolled as flat as it can be. At this stage of 
the path-making it is best to plant the box edging to 
the beds. One yard of old box edging, if well divided, 
wdll make several for replanting. Divide the box 
thoroughly, and throw away all that has' grown too 
woody ; that which is replanted should not be thicker 
than a crowquill. Trim the roots of the plants so that 
the plants may be about four inches in length, and place 
the tops exactly even. Make a trench, or rather cut, 
three inches deep, or rather more, by pressing the spade 
into the earth, and moving it backwards and forwards a 
little to give sufficient width to the opening at the top, 
and let the perpendicular side of the cut be towards the 
bed. Then place the little box plants against the per- 



GEAYEL PATHS. BOX EDGIlS'aS. CONCEETE PATHS. 11 

pendicular side of the cut, with the top edge exactly 
even, and (as the roots will not be even also) press m 
the earth with your left hand while yon still hold them 
m their place, so as to iixthem. The plants should touch 
each other, and should be, when the path is done, not 
more than an inch out of the ground. Autumn and 
sprmg are the times for transplanting box, and it should 
not be done too early in autumn, nor left too late m 
sprmg. Beat the earth well down to the roots of the 
box, and then lay on the last coat of gravel to the paths. 
Spread a sufficient thickness of fine gravel, water and roll it 
at once, and continue to roll it until it is firm and smooth. 

The late Mr. D. Beaton, that well known gardener 
and writer, recommends concrete paths, the construction 
of which he describes in the following words : — "A layer 
of stones, brickbats, shells, or clinkers, six inches deep, 
to form a dry bottom ; a layer of chalk or lime, in the 
proportion of one to ten of the stones or other founda- 
tion, and well rolled and watered, to the thickness of 
three inches, with a rise of two inches in the centre ; 
over this, half an inch of gravel and lime or fine chalk. 
"Water and roll it well again. Add an eighth of an inch 
of fine gravel ; and again roll it until it is quite solid. 
Have the walk two inches wider on each side than you 
desire, as this checks the turf and weeds from encroach- 
ing, and prevents the rain-water getting to the foundation 
of the walk." This would make a capital path, only I 
should give it more thickness of foundation than six 
inches, and also more than a mere sprinkling of gravel 
on the surface. 

The lawn, whether it be left a plain surface of grass, 
or be cut out into beds, formed into a symmetrical 
parterre, or planted with standard roses and ornamental 
trees and shrubs, is always an important feature in the 
flower garden. It should be uniform in surface, and 
uniform in herbage ; for if the surface be uneven it ^vill 
be difficult to keep it well mown, without which it can- 
not look nice ; and if it be sown with various kinds of 
grasses, &c., it will never appear of a smooth unvaried 
green. The best soil for a lawn is a sandy loam, or a 



12 FLOWEBS AIS^D THE ELOWEE GAEDEN. 

loam rather inclining to sandy. The earth should be not 
less than a foot deep ; it should be drained if necessary, 
and the draining should be regular, so as to avoid swampy 
spots. Laying down cut turf is the best way of making 
a grass plot, for two reasons: first, as it is generally 
taken in the neighbourhood, it introduces the kinds of 
grass which do best in the locality; and secondly, it 
becomes a green surface sooner than the produce of seed, 
supposing, of course, that it gets sufficient watering and 
care. The season for laying turf is any time from Sep- 
tember to April. The turfs are cut a foot wide, a yard 
long, and as nearly as possible an inch in thickness. 
Before cutting them the ground should be marked out, 
and cut downwards with a racer or rutter — a thin sharp 
instrument with a rounded edge, like a cheese-cutter, 
fixed to a handle about four feet long. They should then 
be raised with a turfing-iron — an implement with a flat 
arrow-shaped blade, for cutting up the turf, fixed to a 
handle which goes straight from the blade for several 
inches, then turns at an angle and turns again at a 
second angle, so that the handle is above the ground, 
while the blade is at work beneath it. As one man cuts 
the turfs, another should roll and remove them. They 
are unrolled as they are laid, placing edge to edge with 
great exactness, and mending and filling in the broken 
parts as they are laid. As soon as the grass is laid, it 
should be beaten flat, rolled repeatedly, and watered if 
the weather be dry. 

If it be thought better to sow seed than to lay turf, 
the following will be found good sorts : yellowish oat 
grass {Avena Jlavescens), crested dog's tail {Cynosiirus 
cristatus), fine rye grass {Loliwn perenne tenue)^ wood 
meadow grass {Poa nemoralis), evergreen ditto {Poa ne- 
QTioralis sempervirens), rough-stalked meadow grass {Foa 
trivialis), white clover (Trifoliiim repeals), smaller yellow 
clover (Trifoliwn minus), fox-tail meadow grass (Alopem- 
rus pratensis) , sweeUscented spring grass {Antlioxantlium 
odoratum), meadow grass (Foa pratensis), A mixture 
may be made, according to circumstances, and sown early 
in spring. 



LAYING TUEF. KINDS OP GEASS. SPERaULA. 13 



Spergula pilifera forms a moss-like carpet, which is 
said by many to be better than grass for a lawn. "Where 
it takes well, it maintains a bright uniform green; in 
shade, where grass often will not thrive, it does well, and 
on hot sunny banks it will do with watering. It has the 
advantage of not requiring mowing, and its pretty little 
white flowers are very fragrant, and are great favourites 
with bees. The surface to be planted with it should be 
manured, and then prepared as for another lawn, and 
gently rolled. Break up the spergula turf into bits two 
inches square, or rather less ; plant the bits two inches 
apart, roll the ground and give one good watering. Keep 
the surface weeded, roll it once a week, and when it has 
taken, it may now and then have a watering with liquid 
manure. It may be grown from seed. It is especially 
good for small lawns, borders, and banks. The Messrs. 
Carter, of Holborn, sell the turf in small quantities, 2^. 
for enough to plant a square yard, and, I believe, charge 
less for a large surface. They supply the seed also. 

The soil of the beds must be made according to the 
use to which they are to be devoted. The productive 
earth forming the beds should be about three feet in 
depth. Clay imparts tenacity, sand gives lightness, and 
chalk and lime have an intermediate effect. The due 
mingling of these earths may render heavy soils more 
friable and light soils more retentive. The constant 
addition of animal and vegetable manures is continually 
altering the quality of earth under cultivation, and the 
different proportions of it and of the different kinds of 
earth must form the constant study of the floriculturist. 
A light loam, greatly enriched with decayed vegetable 
matter, is an excellent soil for the flower garden ; b)ut as 
various plants differ in their likings and requirements, 
no set rule can be given. Planting the garden, and 
modifying the soil, so that the vegetation may like 
its position, and the position suit the plants, are two 
things which must accommodate themselves to each 
other. In laying out and planting we must consider for 
what the situation and capabilities of the garden are 
suited, to the end that our work may turn out a credit 



14 PLOWEES AND THE TLOWEE GAEDEN. 



and a satisfaction, rather than a loss and a disappointment. 
"With a sweet mild sheltered position, clear country air, 
and a fine soil, we may attain almost any amount of 
flori cultural success ; but if our field of action be a small 
wall-enclosed space, on which the smoke of some great 
town beats pitilessly down, we must confine our horticul- 
tural ambition to the few plants which can accommodate 
themselves to such circumstances, and be very glad that 
there are a few which can. 



CHAPTEE III. 

THE TOOL-HOTISE AT^D ITS COIS^TENTS. 

HowEYEE true it may be that a bad workman finds fault 
with his tools, it is no less so that a good workman wants 
good tools ; and this is in no case much truer than in the 
flower garden. 

A good tool-house and potting-shed are essential 
adjuncts to every garden. The tool-house should be 
fitted up with shelves for stowing away mats, canvas, 
netting, and things of that kind used at times only for 
covering and shading. The walls should be covered 
with supports, pegs, nails, and hooks, among which every 
long and short handled tool, watering-pot, fumigator, 
hammer, axe, and other tool should have its place, to 
which it should be returned, cleaned, every time it is 
used. The habit which many gardeners have of leaving 
their tools about when they have done using them, is 
extravagant and mischievous to a great degree. The 
tool-house should also have shelves for boxes whetstones, 
roses of watering-pots, and water-engines, tallies, pegs, 
and all small things so likely to get mislaid or lost. 
There should also be hanging boxes and other receptacles 
for shreds, nails, cords, lines, and such like. The wheel- 
barrow and water-engine should always go under shelter 
when their work is done, and some old casks for the pre- 
servation of any fertilizers that wet would injure, will be 



TOOL-HOUSE. SPADES. EAE:ES. HOES. 15 

useful. Almost any spare corner out of sight will do 
for the tool-house, but it should be dry, or else shears, 
knives, saws, and bettermost tools of that kind must not 
be kept in it. Spades, shovels, rakes, hoes, forks, and 
trowels, are too well known to need many words respect- 
ing them. With regard to these and all other tools, it 
is the best economy to buy the best of their kind. All 
eccentric unions of two tools in one I reckon more dan- 
gerous than useful. 

Spades are made of three sizes, and it is best to have 
two for a medium-sized flower garden. The largest, 
or the second size, may be chosen according to the 
strength of the hand which will have to use it, for the 
chief of the digging ; and the smallest will be useful 
among the flowers in rather crowded borders. There is 
also a deep spade much scooped, which is very good for 
getting up plants with a good ball of earth. A really 
good spade will wear with a good edge throughout. A 
shovel is a kind of spade, broad in make, and rather 
hollowed in form, and is used for removing earth and 
such like jobs. 

It will be found convenient to have rakes of three 
sizes : one of a rather large size, for the main portion of 
the raking ; quite a small one for raking in amongst the 
flower roots ; and a third, with short teeth, for surface 
tidying. A wooden rake is useful for getting together 
the cut grass on the lawn, but in its absence the large 
iron one will answer the purpose. A daisy rake is an 
implement for removing daisies and other intruders of 
the kind from lawns. 

The hoe is used for cutting up weeds on the surface 
of the ground, and for earthing up plants, by drawing 
earth up round the roots. The Dutch hoe is fixed 
straight on the handle, whereas the common hoe is placed 
at an angle ; thus the gardener works from himself with 
the one, and towards himself with the other. They are 
tools of constant utility, as the surface of the ground can 
scarcely be too often stirred. A small and a medium - 
sized hoe, and a medium-sized Dutch hoe, will find 
plenty of work in a flower garden. The spud is a little 



16 



FLOWEES AND THE ELOWER GAEDEN. 



tool of constant utility. It is like a wide-made chisel, 
set on the end of a long handle, and is good for cutting 
up weeds on grass, paths, or beds. 

The fork is an implement which should be always used 
in the flower beds in preference to the spade ; it is less 
labour, it pulverizes the earth better, and it is less 
likely to do mischief among unseen roots. A light fork, 
with three prongs, is best for common use. A four- 
pronged fork is also good for some purposes. A tulip 
fork — a nice little three-pronged fork, with a handle little 
more than a foot long — is a most useful tool. It is espe- 
cially handy for ladies, as with it they can fork as much 
as is necessary, while they stoop over a bed to plant and 
arrange it. Where the ground is large enough to require 
a large assortment of tools, a leaf fork will be found 
handy : it is a large four-pronged fork, made of wood, 
shod with iron, and it will enable one person to take up 
more leaves than two can without its help, as it is large 
and light, and the leaves do not fix to it as to a common 
fork. One trowel will be enough ; it should be kept 
clean and bright, and it will have plenty of work to do. 

A large garden will require a good water-engine. Por 
it to work well and last well, the workmanship must be 
very good, and therefore it is a dear thing to buy. 
A good one will cost several pounds. The hydropult is a 
water-engine, the pipe of which can be placed in a tank, 
or in a vessel of water ; its cost is two guineas, and there 
is one of smaller size for 35s., which a lady can work. 
It is sold by E. N. Button, 27, Leadenhall Street, Lon- 
don, E.G. ; it is recommended by all the leading horti- 
cultural periodicals, and it works very well. Some at a 
lower price have been advertised, but in the purchase of 
a thing which should last for years, I doubt the economy 
of buying a less efficient article, because it is cheap. The 
hydropult works until the reservoir is exhausted. Water- 
ing-pots are made of all shapes and sizes. The roses of 
some should be finely perforated that the watering may 
the more nearly resemble rain. Besides common water- 
ing-pots of all sizes, there are long spouted watering- 
pots for watering the plants on the shelves of a green- 



FORKS, ENGINES, WATERING POTS, ETC. 17 

house; French watering-pots, with zigzag bends in 
the spouts, to break the force of the water as it 
descends upon the plants; and shelf watering-pots, small 
and flat in shape, for watering plants that are high up 
and in out of the way corners, and near the glass in 
greenhouses. 

Allied to the apparatus for watering is the syringe, an 
implement of great value to the floriculturist. It may 
be used, held at a distance from the plant, for the purpose 
of giving a soft refreshing watering, or held near the 
plant, the water may be impelled with force to destroy 
the aphides. Syringes are made in three sizes ; the 
cost of the smallest is 5s. 6d. ; we have had one in use 
for several years, for which that sum was paid ; it was 
made by George, of Camden Town. 

A fumigator is also a good thing to have, for fumigat- 
ing plants when they are infested with insects. It is on 
the plan of the blast bellows used in houses, and to it is 
attached a reservoir for the tobacco, or whatever may be 
used for fumigating. It is rather dear to buy, the price 
being, I think, 10^. 6d. 

A turfing iron, for raising turf, is scarcely needed in a 
private garden, where laying a lawn is a matter of rare 
occurrence; but the sharp tool with a circular edge, 
called a racer or rutter, is w^anted wherever there is a 
lawn, or edging of grass, for trimming the edges. 

Some sort of greenhouse, for raising plants, is most 
valuable to aid the flower garden, and almost necessary 
where a great number of bedding plants are required. 
For the purpose of raising plants for the beds and bor- 
ders, a house with vines in it will do, as by the time they 
give shade from being thickly covered with foliage, the 
seedlings and the plants which have needed winter pro- 
tection, will be ready for putting out. 

In the absence of a greenhouse, a good roomy frame 
may be made to do a great deal in rearing plants and 
cuttings. Any out of the way warm corner will do for a 
hotbed and frame. That old writer on gardening, Aber- 
crombie, gives, as dimensions for a one-sash frame, 4^ feet 
from back to front, 3^ from side to side, 15 inches or 18 

c 



18 



ILOTVEES xyB THE riOTTEE CtAEDE>'. 



inclies high at the back (for preserving garden plants, 18 
is best), and 9 inches in front ; for a two-sash frame, -l-j 
feet from back to front, 7 feet from side to side, and the 
same height as the smaller, with a good stout well fixed 
bar in the centre, from back to front, to support the 
sashes ; for a three-sash frame, 4J feet from back to 
front, 10| from side to side, :from IS inches to 2 feet 
high at the back, and 9, 12. or 15 inches in front ; these, 
of course, must have two cross bars. The larger frarn-s 
maybe deeper, because they will need more c ' 
earth. The woodwork should be of i^-inch deal, ^kanrd 
and neatlv put together, that there may be no cracks to 
hold wet or harbour insects. The cross bars sh : k' ' e 
8 inches wide, and dovetailed iu front and back, ' - 
sashes may shut down close, and a slat of wood should 
be set on at the sides uf the frame, for the sashes to drop 
against, leaving the front and back without this addition, 
for the convenience of drawing the sashes up and down. 
The sashes should extend beyond the frame at the top, 
and be made of li-inch wood, and should be 2^ 
inches wide ; the cross frames should be an inch wide 
and an inch and a half thick, as in this part it is not 
good to interrupt the light more than necessary ; these 
may be nine or twelve inches apart. The frames sliould 
have three good coats of paint to begin with, and should 
never be more than a yea? without painting. Of course 
the fi^ame must be placed with the high back to the north, 
so that it may slope towards the south. 

In sharp weather the sashes will want to be covered, 
to keep out the frost. This is generally done with mats, 
and other materials that absorb wet, which then lowers 
the temperature of the air within the frame, instead of 
retaining the heat. To obviate this, a framework may 
be made to cover the lights in severe weather, and ward 
off wet also. Make a lattice of stout laths the size of 
the frame, or. if it be a large cue. the size of. the lights, 
making one for each sa^^h. The laths of the lattice may 
be a foot apart. Lay on it a mat, and over the mat fix a 
thatching of straw from three to six inches thick. These 
-may be put on and taken off as the weather renders pro- 



SHEAES, BAEEOWS. SUFDEIES. WATEE. 19 

tection necessary, they will give less trouble than covering 
of other kinds, as well as being better for the plants. 

A good supply of hand-glasses is very useful. Those 
of cast iron are good and durable. There are some which 
are made square with movable tops : the square frames 
which form the lower parts fixing together with pegs at 
the corners. Bell-glasses, too, for raising cuttings, may 
be named. 

Shears, knives, and scissors of different kinds, and a 
few other implements will be wanted for pruning, bud- 
ding, grafting, and all processes of that nature. 

A wheelbarrow of light make, with a broad wheel to 
prevent disarrangement of the gravel, and boards to fit 
in so as to make it deep in case of necessity for the col- 
lection of light rubbish in large quantities, will be 
required. A hand-barrow too is useful, its greatest 
drawback being that it requires two persons to move it 
about. Perhaps the best hand-barrow for the flower 
garden is a strong wicker basket, set between two poles, 
as it is light and manageable, and answers the purpose 
well in collecting weeds as they are drawn, dead flowers, 
cuttings, and small pots, full or empty. 

A scythe or a mowing machine, one or the other, or 
both, must have a place among the implements w^here 
grass has to be kept in order. A mowing machine is 
dear to buy (from three or four pounds to thirty) and 
complicated in make, and must consequently be treated 
with care, by being thoroughly cleaned and oiled after 
every time it is used. Many who have no prejudice 
against the mowing machines are deterred from buying 
one by its cost, and continue the use of the older imple- 
ment, the scythe. This must be of good metal, and have 
for a companion a good stone for sharpening it. 

In addition, a good heavy roller is indispensable ; a 
ladder will be needed if there are tall- trained plants, , and 
the following small items are wanted at times — a line, 
a measuring rod, a dibber (one may be made out of an 
old spade handle), a sieve, a saw, a hammer, a pair of 
pincers, a broom^ and baskets. Things for use to be 
kept in store are naiis, shreds, mats, nettings poles, 

c 2 



20 FLOWEES AND THE ELOWEB GAEDEN. 



stakes and sticks, garden pots, labels, lime, sulphur, 
tobacco, &c. 

Conveniences should be arranged in the form of water- 
tanks and butts (kept tarred when necessary), pipes, and 
all such appliances for catching the rain-water which 
falls on all the roofs, for the use of the garden. 



CHAPTEE lY. 

OEKAITEITTAL TEEES AND ETEEGEEE^'S. 

By ornamental trees, I mean all which may, with good 
effect, find place in the flower garden and such sur- 
rounding pleasure ground as often appertains to a dwell- 
ing of moderate pretension. The list of such is so 
extensive that a mere catalogue might fill a volume ; I 
will therefore only mention a few suggestively, and they 
will be quite enough to choose from to plant a shrubbery 
of moderate size ornamentally. 

Perhaps the largest kinds admissible into the pre- 
cincts of the flower garden, or its immediate neighbour- 
hood, are the Horse-chestnut and the Catalpa. Xot that 
we need shut out many trees which grow as tall, but 
these are bulky from growing wide as well as tall, and 
from bearing a bold foliage. There are spots where a 
large thick tree will grow, and its shelter be valuable, 
and for such a position it is nice to have one which is 
handsome in foliage most part of the year, and gay and 
beautiful with flowers in its season. The horse-chestnut 
loves a deep rich loam ; the common sorts grow readily 
from the nut : other kinds grow from grafts, buds, or 
layers. The bloom of the common horse-chestnut is so 
grand and showy, yet so delicate and soft in colouring, 
that I do not think any of the newer kinds surpass it in 
beauty ; but the red-flowered (JEscuIiis ruhicunda) is 
very much admired, and it has the merit (for grounds of 



/ 



HOESE CHESTNUT. CATALPA. MAGNOLIA. 21 



limited dimensions) of not growing so large as the com^ 
mon sort) . Whitley's scarlet is a beautiful variety. For 
the bloom to be full coloured, shade is required. The 
yellow-flowered kind bears the chestnut in a smooth husk 
There are of the same kind red and white flowering sorts, 
and some of them are shrubs. 

The Catalpa syringcefolia is hardy, and deserves a place 
in our shrubberies, from its splendid foliage and hand- 
some flowers. It must have a dry situation, and it re- 
quires plenty of air: it is propagated by seed or by 
cuttings of the root. 

The Magnolia grandiflora Exoniensis deserves a place 
in every garden where there is a suf&ciently warm situa- 
tion for it, from its handsome foliage and magnificent 
and deliciously scented flowers. It thrives in a rich 
loam, but prefers peat. It will flower freely only in a 
favourable situation, so it is frequently grown against a 
wall. It flowers from August to October. There is a 
rarer variety, Magnolia grandiflora prcscox, with broader 
leaves and larger flowers, which flowers in July and 
sometimes in June. In buying young magnolia plants 
care must be taken that they are plants which have been 
raised from layers, as the seedlings are many years before 
they bloom. The Magnolia conspicua flowers in the 
spring, before the leaves are out, and the flowers are not 
nearly so large as those of the grandiflora. There are 
also several other beautiful varieties. The bark and 
wood of all are fragrant. 

Those elegant-growing, graceful-foliaged trees, with 
white sweet flowers, which we have always been in the 
habit of calling Acacias, but which are in fact Eobinias, 
are beautiful for a screen, or to mingle with other trees 
in a walk near the house. The rose acacia, BoUnia 
hispida, with beautiful racemes of rose-coloured flowers, 
is a great ornament to the screen of a flower garden or of 
a shrubbery. The wood of these trees is very liable to 
break. They do well in a rich soil, and are easily pro- 
pagated by layers, cuttings, or suckers, and also by seed, 
but the seed should be soaked in warm water, and left 
in it for twenty-four hours. 



22 PLOWEES AND THE ELOWER GAEDEK. 



The Almond, tliat glory of suburban gardens, is both 
pretty and sweet, with the additional merit of blooming 
very early. The tall kind is produced by grafting on 
plum stocks, and the dwarf by suckers. When almonds 
are planted for ornament they should be placed against 
a background of evergreens, because they produce their 
delicate pink flowers before the leaves come out. When 
so planted the efl'ect is very beautiful. 

The gay and graceful Laburnum produces its charming 
early bloom in almost any situation, and has the merit 
of doing well even very near to large towns. The Scotch 
laburnum, Cytisus Alpiniis, has finer foliage and larger 
flowers than the common kind ; it is scented, more pen- 
dant, and flowers later in the season. Eabbits and hares 
bark the trees, and will choose the laburnum in pre- 
ference to any other tree. Laburnums grow readily and 
quickly from seed, and there are several choice green- 
house kinds which must be grafted or budded on the 
commoner sorts. Among laburnums which grow in 
gardens there are some with variegated foliage, and one 
which produces a double white flower. The Broom 
belongs to the same family, Cytisus; its peculiar sprayey 
growth makes a great variety in the shrubbery, and its 
yellow and white flowers are both of them gay and 
pretty. 

Lilacs are useful in the flower garden ; for the tender 
green of their foliage is as early among leaves, as their 
gay masses of fragrant bloom are among flowers ; and 
they too have the merit of living and doing well in and 
near towns, where few things so pretty will live. 

The Hawthorn, or white May, and the pink May, are 
encouraged in gardens on account of the beauty and 
strong fragrance of their early bloom. The double pink 
May is beautiful, being covered with abundance of bloom 
like tiny roses, but it is not scented. The Glastonbury 
thorn, a variety of the common hawthorn, is said often 
to flower at Christmas. The evergreen thorn, Cratcdgus 
'pyracantha, or burning bush, looks well trained against 
a wall ; it has shining leaves and pure white fiov/ers, 
and in winter is covered with brilliant scarlet fruit. A 



ALMONDS. LABUEISTMS. LILACS. HAWTHOEXS. 23 

dry situation is the chief requirement of the hawthorns. 
The common hawthorn is propagated by seed which will 
sometimes lie two years in the ground, unless it be pre- 
pared for sowing beforehand : this is done by throwing 
the seed in a heap for several months, but it must be 
frequently turned over during that time, or the fermen- 
tation would destroy vegetation. The finer kinds are 
generally grafted or budded on the common thorn. The 
JEreobotrija Japonica or Loquet-tree, is very handsome, 
with clusters of white flowers, and yellow fruit. It is 
generally obtained by being grafted on the hawthorn. 
It requires a rich loamy soil, and it is delicate, but in a 
warm situation it will do in the open air, if it be pro- 
tected from frost. 

The double-blossomed Peach, the double-blossomed 
Cherry, and several trees of the cherry kind, are very 
ornamental, and quite deserve a place in the flower 
garden. They grow in common soil, and are propagated 
by grafting, or are raised from seed. 

The Larch, Birch, and Mountain Ash should never be 
forgotten by those who want a picturesque outline in 
screen or shrubbery. The tall larch, and common white 
birch, form a pretty contrast with other trees, and there 
are also weeping varieties of both. The mountain ash 
will grow almost anywhere ; it has a tall handsome 
growth, and is gay in winter from its profusion of large 
bunches of scarlet berries. 

The Tulip-tree is very hardy, of large growth, and 
fine foliage, bearing handsome tulip-like flowers : it 
looks very well standing out on a lawn. It was intro- 
duced from North America, and does well in a deep 
rich loam. It is generally raised from seed : if it be 
sown in the autumn it will come np the following spring; 
but if it be not sown until the spring, the seed is said 
often to remain a year in the ground. 

The Liquidamber is another American tree of large 
growth, and there is also a smaller variety from the 
Levant. It is quite hardy, prefers a moist loam, or any 
garden soil provided it be moist, and is splendid in the 
foliage in autumn. It is grown from cuttings, layers, 



24 PLOWEES AND THE FLOWEE GAEDEl^. 

and imported seed, which should not be shelled out of 
the catkin until it is wanted. It is often a year before 
the seedlings show themselves. 

The Copper Beech makes a good contrast when planted 
among trees of different foliage. 

The Osage Orange, Madura aurantiaca, has been so 
much talked about in its own country, jN'orth America, 
that it may be interesting to grow it in our gardens, on 
account of its ornamental orange-like fruit, and also 
because it has been mentioned as one of the trees with 
the leaves of which silkrworms may be successfully fed. 
It will grow in peat or loam, and may be propagated 
from cuttings of the root or layers. It is a thorny tree, 
with shining yellowish green leaves, and rather small 
white flowers, with pistil and stamens in different flowers. 
It wants protection in severe winters. 

Abundance of evergreens are almost necessary. In 
winter they are invaluable, and for spring a good tall 
background of them should be provided for the early 
flowering trees, especially the almond, double-blossomed 
peach. Magnolia consjnciia, Cijdonia Japonica, and all 
trees and plants which flower before they put out the 
graceful clothing of foliage. 

The common Laurel {Cerasus laurocerasus) and the 
Portugal Laurel {Cerasus lusitanica) are valuable, not 
only for their fine foliage in winter, but also on account 
of the abundance of their handsome spikes of flower. 
They are propagated by layers, and grow rather quickly. 

The Holly, so many kinds of which are variegated in 
the foliage, are slow growers, and often difficult to esta- 
blish. They like a rich dry soil, with free air ; and will 
not bear smoke nor overshadowing by other trees. There 
are eight varieties : silver-edged, gold-edged, thick- 
leaved, prickly, yellow-leaved, variegated, spotted, and 
recurved. The leaves of the bottom of the tree and 
those from its upper shoots are often curiously varied in 
character. 

To produce young plants from seed gather the berries 
when they are ripe, and place them at the bottom of a 
hole three feet deep : crush them and mix them up with 



OSAGE OEAXGE. E^TEEGEEEXS. 



25 



a little sandy loam ; fill up the hole with the earth again, 
and throw over the spot a covering of litter, or some- 
thing of the kind, to keep off wet and frost. Dig them 
up and sow them in March. 

The end of August is the best time for removing large 
hollies. Tie the lower branches well together : mark a 
circle two feet from the stem, and a second two feet 
beyond it, and dig out the earth between to a good 
depth. Dig, at the place to which the tree is to go, 
a large deep hole (larger than the root will require), 
throw in some good soil, and with it and water make a 
puddle. "Work round the root of the tree, leaving a 
good ball of earth, and when it stands loose wrap it 
round with garden mats, old carpets, sacks, or such like, 
and tie the ball firmly together with a rope : wrap the 
stem round in the same way, and fix to it a stout pole 
eight or nine feet long. Lower the tree gently, and 
remove it, by the aid of as many men as are necessary, 
to its new position, taking care to lower it gently into 
the puddle, and rather above than below its former level. 
Eemove the incumbrances, and fill up the hole with 
good earth. Paddle the surface, and fix the tree with 
props so that the wind cannot shake it. Trim hollies 
with a good sharp knife (not with shears), quite early 
in the spring, before they begin to shoot. The less 
pruning the better ; but encourage the leader, by stop- 
ping laterals which would interfere with it. 

The Aiiciiha, which is so gay in foliage that it can 
scarcely be out of place anywhere, is best increased by 
layering, and its merits make its increase desirable, for 
it will accommodate itself to any soil, and any circum- 
stances. The smoke of London, and the drip of trees, 
do not daunt it ; so its bright mixture of colour and 
bushy growth come in where they are most needed. In 
addition to the trees I have named, there is a long list 
of evergreens from which to choose — cypresses, pines, 
firs, cedars, junipers, arbores vitae, and evergreen oaks, 
besides shrubs of various growth. 

Of trees which are especially fitted for planting out 
on a lawn, there are many, both deciduous and ever- 



26 FLOWEES Als-D THE PLOTVER GAEDE:N". 



green, among wMcli may be specified the Cedar of 
Lebanon, and Cedrus deodora. To promote fine growth 
in the last, great care should be taken not to injure the 
leading shoot, without which it is almost impossible to 
get a tree to a handsome growth. It does best in a 
deep sandy soil. The tulip-tree has been mentioned 
already. A weeping ash is a handsome tree to plant on 
grass, and it may be arched widely asunder on a large 
hoop, concealed among the branches. 

The Araiocaria imhricata, or Chilian pine, is quire 
hardy, and its peculiar growth shows very well when it 
stands alone. The soil for is a good friable loam, and 
it may be grown from cuttings of young ripened wood, 
under a bell glass, in a cool shaded place. The splendid 
but delicate J[orfolk Island pine is of the same family. 

That magnificent conifer Wellingtonia gigantea, the 
loftiest of known trees in its native country, is a per- 
fectly hardy evergreen, and looks very grand on a large 
lawn. It may be increased by layers and cuttings. 

There are two other plants which are so well adapted 
for single objects on lawns that I must name them here, 
although they may seem out of place among trees. 

The Yucca, with its stout sharp-pointed leaves, of stiff 
growth, and fine branch of large flowers, looks very well 
on grass. It does best planted on a knoll, requires a 
deep dry sandy loam, and may be increased by ofi'sets 
from the old plant. It is also grown from seed. It is 
best to mat up yuccas in the winter, to protect them 
from frost and too much wet. 

A fine tuft of Pampas grass is ornamental on the 
lawn, where it is often planted in conjunction with a 
pillar or statue, although miany prefer seeing it simply 
standing alone. It is hardy, only requiring a little pro- 
tection in very severe winters. It is propagated by 
offsets fromx well-established roots. It is very large, 
showy, and handsome, especially when in flower, and 
may be grown from seed ; but for the seed to be pro- 
duced the male and female plants must be planted to- 
gether. 



27 



CHAPTEE V. 

OEi^AMENTAL SHRrSS Al^D CLTI^BERS. 

Sheubs whicli are ornamental in their growth, or in 
their ilqwers, are A^ery abundant. 

The Arbutus, or Winter Strawberry, is a hardy ever- 
green, the bright-coloured strawberry-like fruit of which 
is gay and pretty in winter. It thrives in common 
garden soil ; it is propagated by budding or in-arching, 
and may also be grown from seed. In favourable situa- 
tions it grows to the size of a tree. 

The AYinter Cherry is also a useful plant, of dwarf 
shrubby growth, the showy flowers of which are suc- 
ceeded by bright red berries, no less ornamental in 
winter. The bladdery calyx does well in making 
skeleton leaves, among which from its peculiar shape it 
forms a pretty variety. 

The j\Iyrtle is a universal favourite, from the beauty 
of its foliage and flowers, and also from their delicate 
delicious fragrance. In Dorsetshire and the western 
counties, Ireland, the Channel Islands, and all mild 
localities, myrtles will do out of doors all the year ; but 
in less favoured spots they have to be housed during 
winter. The rich beauty of their glossy foliage is very 
charming ; a tall well-grown tree is splendid. Cuttings 
will strike readily. They may be kept in a bottle of 
water until the roots grow, and then be planted, or 
struck in sandy soil, under a bell glass. 

The Laurustinus is a beautiful evergreen bush, which 
flowers abundantly throughout the winter under 
favourable circumstances. It grows readily, by layers, 
and November is the best time for removing it. The 
Guelder Eose, or Snowball-tree, is a deciduous shrub of 
the same family, which is beautiful in the spring, with 
its great balls of snowy white flowers, and which will do 



28 PLOWEES AND THE FLOWER GARDEI^'. 

well in confined neighbourhoods. It will grow from 
layers, and cuttings will do if they are kept moist and 
shaded. 

The Sweet Bay is an evergreen shrub which should 
find a place in every garden. It likes a sheltered 
situation ; but when a fine tree is killed down to the root 
by frost, hopes of it need not be given up too readily, 
for I have known old roots spring up again when the 
trees have seemed quite dead. It is very ornamental, 
from its beautiful deep green. It is best propagated 
by layers. 

The Kalmia is a handsoxue evergreen from Xorth 
America, producing beautiful red flowers in June. It 
may safely be grown in the open air. It thrives best in 
sandy peat, but it will do in sandy loam and leaf- mould. 
It may be grown from cuttings of the young shoots, 
planted in sandy peat, and placed under a hand glass, in 
shade, from layers made at the end of summer, or from 
seed sown in shallow pans of sandy peat, covering the 
seed very thinly, and keeping the pans in a close frame. 
While quite small the seedlings should be pricked out 
three to each pot, and planted out the following spring. 
Kalmias are nice plants for early forcing. 

The Hibiscus Syriacus, or AltlicBafruteoo, is an old- 
fashioned, but beautiful hardy shrub, producing abun- 
dance of handsome flowers in summer. There are white, 
double white, purple, double purple, red, and variegated. 
They require an open sunny situation, and are chiefly 
propagated from seed, but the double ones by layers, 
and by cuttings of ripe shoots, placed under a hand 
glass in autumn, and kept covered through the winter. 
They may likewise be grafted. They will do in common 
garden soil. 

The Syringa, English Orange, or Philadelphus, is well 
known, from the scent of its pretty white flowers being 
like that of the orange blossom. Although it is com- 
monly called syringa, it is in no way related to the lilac. 
It is quite hardy, and not at all particular, growing near 
London, and under the drip of trees. It may be propa- 
gated by seed, layers, cuttings, or division of the root. 



OEKAMENTAL SHEUBS. 



29 



There are several varieties. garden should be with- 
out this flower, of peculiarly delicious scent. 

The flowering currant, Bihes sanguineum^ for its 
bright pink, abundant early bloom, and pretty growth, 
should be plentiful in every garden of flowers of various 
heights. The trees begin to flower while quite young, 
and go on until they are tall and large. I have had one 
as much as twelve feet high^ when it was really a 
splendid object in spring. They grow readily from seed 
or cuttings, will do in any garden soil, and in almost 
any locality, objecting but little to smoke and confined 
air. There are several sub-varieties, difl'ering in the 
colour of the flower. There are also Eibes of other 
varieties, all of which are hardy except Sihes jjunctatum, 
which is a native of Chili. 

The fruit-bearing Berberry, generally called Bar- 
berry, is very ornamental. A pretty way of growing it 
is to train it to a single stem, when it forms a head, 
which falls over gracefully, and looks very gay in spring, 
covered with its yellow blossom, and again in autumn, 
with its abundance of bunches of polished scarlet 
oblong fruit. There are five sub-varieties deserving 
notice : the scarlet, with and without stones ; the black, 
the fruit of which is sweet, but which is tender enough 
to require a sheltered border; the purple; and the 
white. The seedless kind, Berheris vulgaris asperma, 
is preferred for preserving. The fruit is ripe in October; 
it has a fine acid, and makes a most delicious preserve, 
either plucked from the stalk or in bunches. The 
bunches are also preserved in salt and water, for gar- 
nishing, and it is good for candying. It does best in a 
sandy or chalky soil, with dry subsoil, and it may be 
propagated by cuttings, suckers, or layers, in spring or 
autumn. As it is a tedious little fruit to gather, the 
bush should be well cut out in the centre, like a goose- 
berry. The spines are so sharp and strong that it is a 
good plant to fill gaps in hedges to keep out tres- 
passers. 

The evergreen Berberry {Berleris aquifolia) is a hand- 



30 



FLOWEES Am THE FLO^E GAEDEiT. 



some thick- growing slirub, Avitli beautiful dark tinted 
foliage, producing abundance of yellow flowers in spring, 
and later in the year clusters of bloom- covered purple 
berries. It may be grown from seed sown i]i spring, 
cuttings planted early in the autumn, or suckers. It 
likes a deep sandy soil. The evergreen berberries are 
sometimes called 5lahonias. There are several varieties, 
the rarer species of which are sometimes propagated by 
grafting. 

The Andromeda is a splendid evergreen shrub, many 
varieties of which are hardy. A peaty soil is best, 
although some of them will do in any garden earth ; 
drought will kill them. Some kinds flower m the spring, 
and others in summer. To propagate them lay down 
layers in September, and do not disturb them for a year. 
They may also be increased from seed, sown as soon as 
ripe, covered thinly with earth. Place the pans or pots 
with the seedlings in a cold frame, and let them have 
plenty of air. 

The Gaultlieria is a hardy shrub, with white flowers 
like those of the arbutus, and berry -like fruit, which is 
good to eat. The G. jprocumhens grows close to the 
ground, and flowers in July ; the G. shallon is taller, and 
flowers in May. Both kinds like a damp situation, but 
will grow, flower, and produce fruit in London. 

The Snowberry is a bushy shrub, producing delicate 
tiny pinkish flowers in summer, and covered with a 
quantity of fruit of snowy whiteness through the winter. 
It grows in any good common soil, and is increased by 
suckers, or cuttings planted in the autumn. 

The Halesia, or American Snowdrop -tree, is a tree in 
its own country, but a bush with us. It will grow in a 
poor sandy soil, by water. The flowers are white, and 
like snowdrops, and the seed is curiously winged. The 
trees are generally increased by layers, but they ripen 
seed with us. 

The Cotoneaster is a pretty evergreen, with small 
glossy foliage, which makes a nice-looking screen for any 
low bare object. It is gay with flowers in the spring, 



OEKAMEXTAL SHErES. 



31 



and with peculiar-looking bright red or black berries all 
through the winter. It is hardy, grows on common soil, 
and is easily increased by layers, or from seed. 

The Box Thorn is a quick-growing spray ey shrub, 
called, by a great mistake, the Tea- tree. It deserves en- 
couragement in gardens very near to towns, because it 
is one of the few things which will thrive there, and also 
on account of its rapid growth and the quickness with 
which it will cover an arbour or unsightly wall. It has 
a pretty little flower, followed by a berry of a bright 
coral colour ; and it may be increased from cuttings 
of ripened wood in spring or autumn, under a hand 
light. 

The Bladder Senna is another quick-growing shrub, 
which is valuable from thriving in almost any soil, and 
under almost any circumstances ; it does not seem to 
mind a confined spot near a large town. Its yellow 
flowers are followed by bladder-like seed-pods, which are 
quite as ornamental. It may be grown from seed, layers, 
or cuttings. 

The Nit r aria is a low shrub, bearing white flowers, 
which is valuable, from thriving near the sea. It is very 
hardy. 

The Tamarisk is a tall tree-like shrub, which is valu- 
able on the same account. It is very good in withstand- 
ing the sea breeze, produces pretty little pink flowers, 
and grows from cuttings taken in autumn. 

The double-blossomed Furze, from its peculiar growth 
and bright yellow flowers, so curiously nice in scent, 
deserves a place in every flower garden where a corner 
can be spared for it. It likes a sandy soil, and flowers 
abundantly in May. It may be propagated by cuttings 
in spring and autumn, which should be planted in a 
shady border, under a hand glass. For a hedge (where 
there is space to spare for a hedge of furze), it is much 
handsomer than the common furze. 

The Sumach is a bush of tree-like growth, which comea 
in well in the garden on account of its facility of growth, 
bold foliage, and the brilliant colours it puts on in 
autumn. The sumachs are all poisonous. It likes a 



32 PLOWEES AKD THE EtOWEE GAEDEIT. 



light fibry loam, and may be increased from seed, layers, 
cuttings of roots, or shoots from the roots. 

The Ftelea^ or Shrubby Trefoil, is an American shrub, 
which also makes a variety on account of the fine yellow 
which the leaves assume in autumn. It will grow in any 
garden soil, and can be grown from layers and cuttings. 

The Weigela rosea and TVeigela rosea alba^ both 
deserve a prominent place for the gay beauty of their 
abundant flowers and thick bright foliage. Weigela 
rosea bears flowers of a bright rose pink, and the other 
is paler in the green of the foliage, and the flowers are 
w^hite. They are hardy, and may be grown from seed or 
increased by cuttings taken in spring and autumn, and 
struck under glass, or in a protected open border. It 
grows best in sandy loam and leaf-mould, and is a good 
plant for forcing. 

The Budlea glolosa, or globe-flowered Budlea, is a 
showy shrub, which is good in foliage, and also in its 
bright orange balls of flower, of peculiar but pleasant 
scent. There are several other Budleas, but this is the 
only one which is hardy, and it is sometimes killed in 
hard winters. It requires a dry sheltered situation, and 
may be propagated by well ripened cuttings, struck 
under glass in September, and kept indoors until the 
spring. The more delicate varieties may be treated in 
the same way, only in a higher temperature, B, Lynd- 
leyana produces long spikes of flowers, of a fine lavender 
purple. They are great favourites with bees. 

The double red-flowered Pomegranate is a splendid 
shrub for a warm situation, or to train on a wall, being 
no less pretty in the foliage than it is beautiful in the 
bright scarlet flower. It requires a deep loamy soil, 
and a warm but airy situation. It bloom.s in August, 
and in cutting it the twigs must be left unshortened, as 
it is they which produce the flower. The double kinds 
of Punica, or pomegranate, should be grafted on the 
single, which curtails their rampant growth, and makes 
them flower better. The pomegranate may be propa- 
gated by cuttings of the shrub or root, or layers, in a 
light rich soil, as well as by grafts. There are several 



cli:mbees. 



83 



varieties : single and double red, single and double 
whitish flowered, and yellow. There is also a dwarf 
kind, requiring heat. 

As the flower garden generally includes the front of 
the dwelling, and often, besides summer-houses and other 
erections of the sort, walls, trellises, and all things of 
the kind needing to be beautified, a good choice of orna- 
mental climbing and creeping plants will often be 
needed. Ivy, that never-failing resource in covering 
unsightly objects, has many varieties ; some large and 
bold in the foliage, some prettily minute ; and there are 
several kinds of which the leaves are variously varie- 
gated, as to both the disposition and colour of the mark- 
ing. A deep rich soil suits the common ivy ; the 
tender kinds require lighter earth. It may be grown 
from seed, but the quicker plan is to plant slips in a 
north border in sandy soil, keep them moist through the 
autumn, and plant them out where they are wanted to 
grow, when they are well rooted. If one had room to 
spare, from giving plain information, to get poetical, all 
sorts of loving things might be said of ivy, unfailingly 
refreshing to the eye as screen or carpet where it alone 
will cling, and thrive, and beautify, and showing its 
sober green even in the smoke of densely populated 
towns. But I must leave it to the love that all feel for 
it, and turn to gayer climbers. 

The Bignonia, or Trumpet-flower, Bignonia capreo- 
lata^ is sufficiently hardy to stand our climate on a wall 
of south aspect. Its magnificent flowers render it one 
of our handsomest plants for a wall. It must have 
plenty of room. Cuttings root readily in sand, or cut- 
tings of the root may be taken ; they should be planted 
in spring or autumn, and covered with a hand glass. 
There are many beautiful tender bignonias ; as they are 
very handsome, it might be worth while to try the least 
tender sorts out of doors, in a warm position, by graft- 
ing them on the Bignonia capreolata. Tecoma radicens 
used formerly to be called a bignonia ; it is hardy ; and 
Tecoma grandijlora is nearly so. 

The Cohcea scandens is a climbe of rapid growth, pro- 

D 



34 FLOWEES A-SB THE FLOWEE GAEDEif. 



ducing in August a profusion of large bell- shaped 
flowers, which come green at first, and turn purple after- 
wards. The root must have plenty of room, and rather 
poor soil, to prevent its strength running to leaf instead 
of to bloom, and the shoots should often be stopped 
the tips pinched off), to make the tree grow thick. It 
will climb by aid of its own tendrils, if its position gives 
it the opportunity ; if not, it must be nailed up, or tied 
with bast. It is propagated by seed, sown in a hot-bed 
in March, or cuttings of firm side shoots, taken in sum- 
mer. The root may be protected in the winter. Colcea 
scandens variegata is a handsome foliaged climber of 
more recent introduction. 

The "Wistaria, w^hich used to be called the G-lycene, is 
beautiful from its profusion of large drooping racemes of 
bright lavender fragrant flowers in the spring. It 
requires a rich soil, and it should be watered in dry 
weather. It flowers well in the outskirts of London, 
and it will sometimes flower a second time in the year. 
The young trees are often backward in beginning to 
flower ; they, and older plants also, will be benefited by 
the use of liquid manure, taking care to put it down a 
long way from the stem. The plant is easily propagated. 
The seed seldom ripens in England, but when it does it 
grows rapidly. Layers produce abundantly, as a long one 
laid down will root at every joint. It will also grow from 
cuttings of the plant and root. It is the Wistaria 
Sinensis which has fine large pale lavender flowers ; the 
Wistaria frutescens has a flower which is smaller in size 
and deeper in colour, and which comes later. There is 
also a white early flowering variety, which contrasts 
well with the others, and does best when grafted on 
the root of these. 

The Maura7idya Bar clay ana is an elegant and delicate 
climbing plant which often dies in the winter. If it is 
planted in the open ground, it will not bear being over- 
grown by more rampant vegetation, but it will often do 
very well if the root be kept in the pot, as it does not 
need much room, and it can then be taken in for the 
winter. The flowers are of a beautiful dark blue. It must 



CLIMBEES. 



35 



have liglit rich earth, and it is propagated by cuttings in 
spring and autumn, or seed sown in spring. 

The Eccremocarpus is a climber of vigorous growth, 
which does in our climate if the roots be protected in 
winter. Its flowers of orange scarlet are very handsome, 
and the seed ripens well. It flowers in July. It will 
grow in common garden soil, and it is best to cut it 
down to the root in autumn, and cover it with a sufficient 
quantity of straw and dead leaves to preserve it from 
frost, when it is almost sure to shoot up in the spring. 
It is easily raised from seed, which should be sown on a 
hot-bed as soon as it is ripe. The seedlings may be kept 
in a frame or greenhouse, and shifted two or three times 
before jipril or May, when they may be planted out. 
Cuttings also may be taken in August, and kept in a 
frame through the winter. It likes a light fertile soil. 

The common blue Passion-flower, JPassiJiora ccerulea, is 
hardy, and will produce its beautiful flowers in great 
profusion in the neighbourhood of London. It requires 
a good loamy soil ; if the place where it is planted be 
not favourable in this respect, it is best to dig a pit two 
feet square and fill it with the right kind of earth. Some 
persons like the fruit, but it is insipid. There are many 
tender varieties, and some of the hybrids with the com- 
mon sort are .found to be hardy enough to grow out of 
doors. Cuttings of the young shoots strike readily in 
sand under a glass. The root had better have a little 
protection in winter. 

The Lopliosjoermum grows luxuriantly in the summer 
but dies down in the winter, so that cuttings should be 
j made in autumn, and kept in a greenhouse or frame 
I until the spring. It covers a trellis or wall very soon, 
I and bears beautiful bell-shaped flowers. It will grow in 
j any garden earth, if it be light, and if its roots are not 
I crowded. The cuttings should be taken in August. 
I Seed may be sown in a hot-bed in March or April, or the 
I fleshy roots may be preserved through the winter in dry 
earth. There are three varieties bearing flowers, that 
are respectively rose-coloured, dark red, and purple. 
Menispermum, or Moon-seed, is a handsome-looking 

B 2 



36 PLOWEES Al^B THE FLOWER GABDE2T. 



climber, with leaves of curious form. Memspermnm 
Canademe is very hardy, will cover a space quickly and 
ornamentally, and bears drooping racemes of greenish 
yellow flowers of elegant appearance. It will grow in 
almost any soil or situation, and has a graceful growth if 
planted out alone and tied to a stake, leaving the top to 
droop over. Menispermum Lyonii has a purple flower. 
They flower in June, and they may be propagated by 
division of the root, by cuttings planted under a hand 
glass, in spring, or from the seed sown in spring. 

The Yirginian Creeper is admired for the brilliant hues 
which its foliage assumes in autumn, and for its quick 
growth. It grows from layers or cuttings. 

The Canary Creeper, Ampelopsis hederacea, Cana- 
riensis, or Tropceohir/i peregrinum, is pretty, from 
the bright delicate harmony of its gay yellow flowers 
and pale green foliage. With us, it is a half-hardy 
annual and most useful creeper, covering a fence 
and keeping it gay until frost interferes. It may 
be raised from seed on a hot- bed in the spring. Plant out 
the seedlings where they are wanted in May, with a 
trellis or wall for support. A hot-bed is not necessary 
for raising these pretty creepers ; the seed may be sown, 
as soon as it is ripe, in a pot, and kept in a room for the 
winter. "Water the young plants regularly ; when they 
shoot up train them to sticks, and plant them out in 
the spring. They are not particular about the smoke 
of towns, but will enliven London balconies with 
their gay green foliage and lovely flowers. The jS'as- 
turtiums belong to the same family, and they ought 
to be encouraged, not only because the berries make 
a most delicious though little appreciated pickle, but 
because the green of their luxuriant foliage is bright 
and tender, and their flowers are brilliant with every 
shade of yellow, orange, and maroon. If nasturtiums 
were rare, their pretty bright foliage and brilliantly 
varied flowers of peculiar shape would make them much 
sought after ; but as a seed will spring up on any hillock 
on which it happens to fall, and clothe it with varied 
beauty, the plant does not get its due. When they are 



CLIMBERS. HAEDT HA^'DSO:^E POLIAGE PLA^'TS. 3/> 



wanted to climb, they must be helped to mount (like 
aspiring man), and afterwards they will cling by their 
own stalks, and root from the stem like ivy. Besides the 
tall kinds there are several dwarfs. 

The Clematis, or Virgin's Bower, has many varieties, 
among which the common white is a general favourite 
for its extreme fragrance, and the bat's-wing clematis for 
its deep-coloured abundant flowers of large size and 
peculiar form. Most of the clematises like a dry situa- 
tion. They may be increased by cuttings of firm side 
shoots under a glass in summer, or by layers in Sep- 
tember. 

The Honeysuckle deserves a place in the flower garden, 
on account of the sweet scent of the flowers. It is very 
hardy, and thrives in any common garden soil. The best 
way to increase it is to put down layers in autumn, after 
the leaves begin to fall. 

The Hop is a good plant for training over an arbour, 
on account of the quickness of its growth, and the shade 
given by its bold foliage. Its pale green flowers are very 
ornamental. It likes a rich loamy soil, and can be in- 
creased by division of the root. There is a variety with 
variegated foliage. 



CHAPTEE YI, 

HAEDT HANDSOME FOLIAGE PLAN'TS. 

The beautiful variety and rich colouring in the garden 
is not dependant solely on flowers. The heavy green of 
some evergreens, " deuil de I'ete et parure de I'hiver," 
forms a rich background for spring flowering trees and 
shrubs. "While they sober down the rampant green in 
summer, they give a verdant screen in winter, when the 
eye hungers for green, and when the shrinking form of 
man, animals, and plants delights in its warm shelter. 
Foremost in beauty of foliage must therefore ever stand 
our evergreens. 



no^EES A^D THE ELO^EE GAEDE^. 



A careful mixture of trees which leaf early with those 
which put out late will keep up a pleasant variety in the 
green of screens and shrubberies, from the iii'st bright 
shoots of spring to the time when Autumn dips liis 
brush in warm colouring, and dashes away among the 
foliage at random, as if to keep among us, to the pleased 
eye, the warmth we are so scon to lose. 

-For trees of bold foliage we have the catalpa, the horse 
chestnut, and the sycamore. For contrast to these, there 
are the birch, the lady of the woods, with her light 
feathery drooping sprays ; the larch, with its peculiar 
gi'owth and light tender green in spring; and the broom, 
contrasting with the others in the line-like straightness of 
its up-springing growth. There is no end to the variety 
which judicious planting and planning may effect in 
shrubberies and screens. 

The ditferent kinds of I^y. some of which are splendidly 
rariegared with green and yellow, and green and stone 
colour, and of which the varieties vary so much in size of 
leaf that they are like quite different plants, may be used 
in a flower garden in many ways to promote picturesque 
effect. Ivy is useful wherever a bare place has to be 
covered in small space of time. It will do for a wall, 
trellis, dead tree, or paling ; or to cover the little rising 
ground round a pillar, fountain, or statue, provided of 
course that it will not be walked on or even stepped on. 
It will often grow where nothing else will. The broad- 
leaved Irish ivy grows the fastest of any kiiid, >:'i:e of 
the beautiful varieeated sorts are He^.t/':. JctifiUci ir-.c.cu- 
lata^ a roun.'.ish-leared sort, margined with pale yellow; 
Sedera Ililcrnici' foliis variegata, which has a somewhat 
narrow leaf, with a green patch in the middle, the rest 
yellow ; Hederc. lielix maculata^ with leaves rather deeply 
cut, and irregularly but deeply margined with yellow ; 
the new silver edge, a very small-leaved ivy. with a siker 
edge ; gold striped, an elegant cut leaf, beautifully 
variegated ; Sedera eJegantissima^ a plant with splendid 
leaves, irre2:ularly and showily blotched with green and 
yellow : and last, not least, the old silver edge, an ivy of 
splendid large foliage, beautifully mottled with white 



HAEDT HA>'DSOME POLIAGE PLANTS. 39 



and green. Ivy requires a deep and rather light soil. 
Before it begins to climb, it is best to nail it up, as a tree 
is trained, and it will soon throw out rootlets and attach 
itself, if the substance to which it is trained offers any 
facilities whatever. The above-named variegated kinds 
are sufficiently hardy to stand our English winters, 
unless they happen to be most unusually severe. They 
may be propagated by cuttings on a north border, in a 
sandy soil, and they must be kept moist through the 
autumn. 

The common ivy will grow to a height of 40 feet, and 
it is often wonderfully stout in the stem. The following 
dimensions may be named: — One at Brockley Hall, 
Somersetshire, stem 12 inches in diameter ; one at Mor- 
peth, 19 inches ; and one at Gigean, near Montpellier, 
described by De Candolle, is six feet in circumference at 
the base : this covers 72 square yards, and is said to 
be 430 years old. There is also one near Pountains 
Abbey, the stem of which is 3 feet 2 inches in girth. A 
curious peculiarity in the ivy is the variety in the shape 
of the leaves on the same plant. It flowers in October, 
and the flowers are much frequented by bees and flies of 
diflerent kinds. The berries are ripe by Christmas, 
when they form food for blackbirds, thrushes, and wood 
pigeons. 

The variegated-leaved Colt's-foot is a low growing, 
very beautiful, hardy perennial, producing its yellow 
flowers in IMarch. It is a native of Grreat Britain, and does 
best in a moist clayey locality . The leaves are put out 
after the flowers are gone off ; they are large and round- 
ish, with an angularly varied, toothed edge, and are 
boldly variegated with shades of green and white. They 
are covered with a cottony down above, and are white 
and woolly beneath. They can be increased readily 
from pieces of the running root. 

The variegated Lily of the Valley, Convalaria majalis 
variegata, has its bright oval pointed leaves beautifully 
and distinctly striped with bright yellow. It requires a 
shady position, and soil of poor sandy loam. To keep 
the stripes distinct it is best to cultivate the roots in pots. 



40 TLO^VEES A^D THE TLOTVER GAEDEy. 



The yariegated Mezereon is a handsome shrub, growing 
well on dry sandy loam without manure : it must have 
good clear air. It originated in a seedling, and is per- 
petuated by grafting, very carefully performed. 

The golden striped Japan Spindle-tree, Huonymiis 
Japonicus aureus variegatus, is a low-growing evergreen 
shrub, which will do well in warm localities, but will not 
stand the north of England, without being taken up for 
the winter. The ovate leaves are a gay mixture of green 
and bright yellow. It requires a sandy loam and a dry 
subsoil, and it may be increased by layers and cuttiugs, 
choosing for the purpose the shoots which are tlie most 
handsomely variegated. June is the time for layering 
it : bend the shoot down with great care, make a slit on 
the under side, peg it down, and cover it with an inch in 
thickness of sandy soil. In the autumn of the follo\\'ing 
year it may be parted from the old plant, potted, and 
kept in the house, but in a cool situation, until the next 
spring, when it may be planted out. Cuttings may be 
taken in March, and plunged in gentle heat for striking. 

The variegated Tucca is a very handsome variety, its 
long leaves being gaily striped with yellow and two 
shades of green, and tiuged with pink at the base, with 
curious thready appendages hanging from the sides. It 
must be planted in an open space, not crowded among 
shrubs, nor subject to the drip of trees. It wants a good 
loamy soil, mixed with well rotted cow-dung, and is pro- 
pagated by offsets from old plants. 

The golden variegated Thorn, Cratcegus priinifoUa 
variegata, is a low bushy tliornless tree, with handsome 
foliage, beautifully, richly, and constantly variegated. It 
is perfectly hardy, requires only a common soil, not too 
rich, as manure makes the leaves run to green. It wants 
full exposure to the sunlight to bring out its beautiful 
colours. To propagate it, bud in June on the common 
thorn, taking the buds from the most variegated 
branches. It may be grafted in the same way in March. 
As soon as the buds or grafts have grown rub off all 
other shoots, giving the variegated kind the full strength 
of the plant. 



HAEDY HA2TDS0:^E TOLIAGE PLAXTS. 



41 



The Funlcia Sieloldiana is a beautiful perennial, with 
large handsome foliage, variegated white and green, pro- 
ducing a rather pretty lilac flower in summer. It must 
have a deep sandy loam, and a warm dry situation. It 
should be potted into a large pot, and put in a cold pit 
in winter, brought forward in a greenhouse, and after- 
wards planted out. It must not be allowed to suffer 
from want of water. It is easily propagated by division 
of the root in autumn. 

The Farfugium grande is a splendid plant, with bold 
magnificent showy foliage, gaily and thickly blotched 
and spotted with yellow on a dark green ground. As it 
will stand the winter (losing its leaves) in the south of 
England, it is quite worth while to attempt to acclimatize 
it more completely. The best soil for it is strong fibry 
loam, sandy peat, and leaf-mould in equal parts. It must 
be new potted in March, and again in August ; and if it 
be tried in the open ground the pot should be sunk in a 
warm sheltered border, after the warm weather begins, 
and taken up before winter. The old plants send up 
suckers, which may be taken off with roots, potted singly, 
kept under a glass, shaded for a few days, and then har- 
dened and placed in the greenhouse. 

Some of the new Begonias might be made as hardy with 
us as our old ruby-leaved favourite, by trying to acclima- 
tize them by careful gradation. They have lived near 
London through severe winters, m a room in which a fire 
was kept up by day, but not by night. The begonias 
grow in light rich sandy soil ; cocoa-nut fibre is good 
manure for them. 

The Ferilla Nankuiensis is most valuable, either as a 
bedding plant or to mix with other flowers in the 
borders, on account of its deep crimson foliage, almost 
amounting to black. It must be sown in heat in March 
or April, and planted out in May. 

Cineraria maritima mixes in good contrast with the 
perilla, and other plants of deep-coloured foliage, being 
clothed on leaves and stalks with silvery down. This 
is propagated by cuttings and offsets, in a hot-bed, and 
requires a warm soil and situation. 



42 



FLOWEES AKD THE FLOWEE GARDEIT. 



The Holy Thistle is beautiful in its white and pale 
green foliage, but if it is introduced care must be taken 
that it does not become a weed in the garden. 

To enter into the cultivation of many of the handsome 
foliaged trees, shrubs, and plants that may be used to 
vary most beautifully the general appearance and colour- 
ing of the flower garden, would take too much space, 
but I may just cursorily name a few of each which are 
well worth attention. Among trees we have the varie- 
gated maple, striped-leaved horse-chestnut ; variegated 
leaved chestnut ; several oaks with variegated foliage ; 
the golden-twigged lime ; the copper beech, and others. 
As shrubs there are the never-fafling aucuba, that host 
in itself; the variegated syringa {FMladelplms coronarius 
foliis variegatis) ; the golden-edged leaved buckthorn ; 
the variegated rhododendron (^Rhododendron 'ponticum 
variegatim) ; the variegated yews ; and the variegated 
arbor vitse. As plants we have the variegated peri- 
winkle ; the variegated germander ; the variegated se- 
dum; the variegated blue Jacob's ladder; the ^notliera 
glauca variegata ; the variegated balm and mint; the 
variegated toad-flax (a pretty ground creeper) ; the 
variegated white lily ; the variegated Grerman iris ; the 
variegated hairy willow herb ; the variegated daisy ; 
the greater variegated astrantia ; the variegated shiny 
Arabis, and the variegated blue agathsea. 

There are also ribbon grass, Belgian daisies, variegated 
Arabis, Centaiirea dealhata, Centaurea cruenta, the tri- 
coloured salvia, and various bedding plants with deep 
crimson and glaucous leaves. There is, in fact, so much 
variety in foliage, natural or obtained by cultivation, 
that by its judicious utilization we may permanently aid 
the varying beauty of floral arrangement. 

I have endeavoured to confine my list in this chapter 
entirely to hardy handsome foliaged trees, shrubs, and 
plants, deferring to another those splendid plants 
which require the aid of the greenhouse, but some of 
which I hope to see more hardily domesticated among 
us at a future time. 

There are some herbaceous plants of gigantic growth 



TENDER HANDSOME EOLIAGE PLANTS. 43 

and foliage of magnificent size which may be advan- 
tageously introduced in any rough ground which it is 
desirable to ornament without much loss of time. The 
Seracleum giganteum and Seracleum asperum are bien- 
nials of such rapid growth, that they have been known 
to attain a height of 12 or 14 feet in one year. The 
stem is fluted, the leaves of enormous size, and the com- 
pound umbels of white flowers large in proportion. It is 
their size, and the boldness of their foliage and growth, 
which render them so handsome to fill a place where a 
large object is required. They are raised from seed, which 
ripens in abundance, and they do well in a moist situa- 
tion, near a pond^ as they require a great quantity of 
water. 

The Tree Mallow {Laveiera arhorea) is another bien- 
nial of grand proportions, although not so large as the 
heracleum ; it is a splendid and very ornamental plant 
where one is wanted of bold rampant growth. 

The Henbane, Hijoscyamus, is also handsome when it 
is planted out so as to stand alone. 



CHAPTER VII. 

TENDER nANDSOME EOLTAGE PLANTS. 

[N'ow that plants which take their beauty from their 
splendid and gaily variegated foliage are so popular that 
they form a main feature at the shows, and have become 
especial horticultural favourites with all who can by any 
means compass the cultivation of a few of them, it will 
not do to pass over even the tenderer varieties without 
casual mention. To cultivate largely the splendid-leaved 
plants introduced within the present century, many of 
them quite recently, requires the aid of stove or green- 
house ; but persons who have an extensive flower garden, 
and who can aid their efl"orts to supply it with those 



M ELOWEES AKD THE FLOWER GAEDET^. 



convenient and valuable appliances, can enhance its 
beauty and the gaiety of its appearance by keeping 
such of these recherche plants as space and the heat they 
can keep up will enable them to manage. A great num- 
ber of them require a summer heat of from 65° to 80°, 
or even 90", and winter heat 55° to 70°, or 75°. 

The Calathea zehrina^ Maranfa zehrina, or Zebra Plant 
of Brazil, with its magnificent stout velvet-like leaves, 
two feet long and six inches wide, beautifully streaked 
from the midrib to the margin, is a leading favourite 
among handsome foliage plants. The flower springs from 
the root in a spike, and is a rich purple, shaded with red 
and white. Of similar kind, and similar also in richness 
of colour, are the Maranta vittata and Mar ant a alba 
lineatv, both having leaves handsomely streaked with 
white on green. The Maranta fasciata has a broader 
leaf with a bolder stripe ; in Maranta regalis the leaves 
are striped with bright red lines on the surface, and they 
have a red tinge beneath. Maranta JBorteana has smooth 
shining oblong sharp-pointed leaves, striped with white 
on the upper surface, and tinged with purple beneath. 
The Maranta pardina has splendid pale green leaves, 
from ten to fifteen inches long, and from four to six 
inches wide, with numerous dark square streaky mark- 
ings ; it has a pretty yellow flower, the most showy of 
any of the tribe. The Maranta raicans is the smallest of 
any ; and is, when well grown, a sweet little gem. The 
leaves are dark green, with an elegant feathery glossy 
stripe down the centre of each. The plant should be 
placed near the glass, but shaded from the sun. The Ma- 
ranta Warsewiczii is a strong evergreen, as handsome, 
showy, and as easy to grow as Maranta zehrma. Its 
noble leaves are two feet long and six inches wide, on a 
stem a foot high; they are a rich dark green, with a 
feathery pattern of pale green running up the centre. 

These beautiful plants require a temperature of from 
60° to 80° in summer, and from 50° to 65" m winter, 
some requiring rather more heat than others. They 
may be grown in a compost of fibry loam, sandy peaa 
silver sand, a little well decomposed cow mantur,. 



TENDEE HAKDSOME FOLIAGE PLANTS. 45 

and small pieces of charcoal. The pot should be well 
drained, and its size be in proportion to the size of the 
plant; stagnant water is injurious to the root. "Water 
moderately in summer, and in winter very moderately, 
and keep the plants rather in shade to retain the beauti- 
ful marking. They may be repotted in spring, if they 
are in a healthy growing state, and a little bottom heat 
will then do good. Sometimes, when plants are growing 
vigorously, and if it is wished to have them large, there 
may be another potting in June. Keep the air of the 
house moist during the growing season, and let the 
plants rest from December to March. They may be 
increased by division of the root, and by the careful 
removal of side shoots. Shade the little plants from 
the sun for a month, after which they may be treated 
like the old plants. 

The splendid two-coloured Caladium, CalacUum licolor 
splendens, is a magnificent foliaged plant, which dies down 
in the autumn. The leaves are about nine inches long 
and seven wide, the centre is of the brightest red, with 
glossy metallic lustre, and the margin dark green, each 
leaf rising on a tall footstalk from the root of the plant. 
The flowers are white. The Caladium Chant ini is a yet 
handsomer plant, its broad arrowhead-shaped leaves being 
larger, crimson in the centre, shaded to pale green to- 
wards the margin, and covered with a profusion of white 
spots of irregular shape and size. These beautiful leaves 
are on stems two feet high, with streaks of dark purple 
and crimson. Galadiicm argyrites is a smaller but no 
less beautiful plant. It is quite a gem, its arrowhead 
leaves being a dark green, irregularly but prettily marked 
with white, the plant not exceeding nine inches in height. 
Caladium jncfum has wide leaves, about a foot long, irre- 
gularly blotched with white on a pale green ground, 
rising on stems of a rich purple colour. "With a little 
care in watering, it will retain its leaves all the year. 
The Caladium Verschaffelti is a remarkably showy plant, 
the leaves six to nine inches long, of a brilliant green, 
with irregular bright red spots. 

All these caladiums are so bright and beautiful, and 



46 PLOWEES lyj) THE ELOWES GAEI>E>'. 



SO sliowy in colour and growth, that they deserve a place 
in every collection of handsome foliage plants. They 
require a summer heat of 70^ to 80^ : the first-naiaed 
variety may have a winter temperature of 55^ to 60', the 
others 60° to 70'^. There is one kind, the Caladium 
Yirginicum, which is hardy. The ginger-like roots of 
CaJadium ticolor are eaten in tropical countries, under 
the name of cocoa roots. 

They are tuberous-rooted plants, and are increase! by 
division of the roots. They will send out side shoots, 
and these when rooted may be taken off, potted, and 
placed in a frame or under a hand glass, with a gentle 
bottom heat, keeping them shaded. 

Their soil is turfy loam, sandy peat, and thoroughly 
well rotted cow manure, in equal parts : add silver sand, 
and a few bits of charcoal mixed in amongst it. The 
tubers should have some rest in winter, being at that time 
kept rather dry. As soon as the plants begin to grow 
in the spring, shake them clear of the old soil, and re-pot 
them in fresh compost, mixed as mentioned above. Grive 
but little water until they have made a good start, 
and then re-pot them ; give a little bottom heat, and 
increase the heat and moisture in the place where they 
are kept. If the plants grow fast, they will require to be 
re-potted in June ; give plenty of water, and now and 
then a little liquid manure. Watch for the green fly, and 
if it should appear, wage war against it at once. At the 
spring potting, if mouldy or decayed spots are seen on the 
tubers, clean them by scraping, and dust a little powdered 
chalk on the wound. CoMdium- Chantini must be kept 
dryer than the rest, and its offsets may be planted in 
almost pure sand. 

The Begonias recently introduced are plants of magni- 
ficent foliage, and are delicately pretty, although not very 
showy in the flower. The peculiar shape of the leaves, 
one side being so much larger than the other, and their 
brilliant mixture of colour, render these plants very at- 
tractive. The Begonia rex is splendid, and many hand- 
some seedlings have been raised from it. They require 
about the same range of temperature as the caladiums, 



TE>'DEE HA^^DSOME TOLIAGE PLA^'TS. 



47 



a moist atmosphere, and for soil a compost of sandy turfy 
loam, sandy fibrous peat, and decayed leaves. To make 
the variegation clear, tlie plants should be kept to a small 
pot, in proportion to their size. They are curious in being 
propagated by the leaf The ribs of the leaf may be cut into 
divisions, laid flat on the surface of a pot of sand, and 
pegged down with little hooked sticks. The pot is placed 
in heat, covered with a bell glass and shaded, the air 
within being kept rather moist. In a short time roots 
will spring from the base of each division, and young 
leaves will appear, forming a new plant, which may be 
taken up and potted. It should be returned to close 
moist heat until it takes to growing, when it may be 
gradually introduced to light and air. 

Draccena ferrea versicolor, or various-coloured ter- 
minal Dragon-tree, is an evergreen of splendid growth, 
requiring a temperature of 70^ to 80° in summer and 
50° to 60° in winter. It grows from ten to fifteen 
feet high, with leaves a foot long, brilliantly tinted 
with rich dark green, and shades of scarlet and crimson. 
Draccena ferrea is of similar growth, but with foliage of 
a rich dark shade of crimson ; very beautiful, and making 
a fine contrast with foliage of any lighter colour. 

These fine plants are not difiicult to increase. Cut 
the naked stem of a tall plant into pieces two inches long, 
and bury them entirely in sandy soil, with half an inch 
of sand over the tops. Plunge the pot in a strong 
bottom heat, give but little water, and most likely every 
piece will grow. "When they are potted ofi", let the young 
roots be carefully preserved, place them under a hand 
glass until they begin to grow, then harden them gradu- 
ally, and re-pot them as they require it. The top may 
be used as a cutting, in sand, with bottom heat, under a 
bell glass, and will make a fine plant sooner than the bits. 
Mature plants should be stopped in the leading shoot 
to make them spread. The soil should be a compost of 
loam, peat, and leaf-mould. 

There are several plants of the Croton tribe which are 
beautifully variegated in foliage. Croton variegata is an 
evergreen shrub, growing from eight to ten feet high. 



48 



PLO^EES A^B THE ELOWER GAEDE>'. 



and requiring summer heat of 65^ to 75"^, and winter 
warmth of 55° to 60°. The leaves are handsome, being 
about six inches long, and an inch and a half wide in the 
centre, and thicklj variegated, striped and mottled with 
yellow on a green ground. The flowers are white and 
green. Croton inctum is an evergreen of similar habit. 
The leaves are rather wider, and curiously spotted with 
shades of red and yellow. 

Croton variegatum an giisti folium has long narrow 
leaves, beautifully streaked with yellow on dark green, 
gracefully drooping downwards. Its flowers are not 
conspicuous. 

Croton tiglium produces the well-known croton oil. 

The soil they like is loam and peat, with silver sand : 
stimulants spoil the variegation. Increase the plants of 
angustifolium by cuttings taken about the end of July, 
just as the summer shoots begin to harden. Take them 
ofl*, where the new and the last year's wood join, smoothly 
with a sharp knife : trim off the lower leaves, and 
the ends of those which are left. Plant the cuttings in 
a pot of compost, with an inch in depth of silver sand 
above : water them to set the sand close about them, and 
cover them with a bell glass, taking care that no leaves 
touch it. Plunge the pot in heat, shelter it from the 
sun, and water when necessary. Pot the cuttings when 
they are well rooted, but return them to their old posi- 
tion until they grow again. After that harden them to 
bear full light. Cuttings of the other kinds should be 
taken in March or April, and the leaves left entire. Let 
the plants have pots which are no larger than they 
quire ; and as their habit is rather straggling, stop the 
leading shoots annually, and train out the side branches. 

The JBavettct Borhonica is a pretty growing plant, with 
leaves about nine inches long, beautifully spotted with 
white and pale green on dark green, with a bright red 
vein down the centre. It is of vigorous habit, and re- 
requires stopping to make it grow bushy. It grows in 
fibry loam and sandy peat, without stimulating manures, 
and requires re-potting when the old pot is filled with 
roots. It grows from cuttings taken in spring, and 



TE>'DEE nANDSOME EOLIAGE PLA:N'TS. 



49 



planted in sand, under a high bell glass, in bottom heat, 
shaded from the sun. The mature plants love plenty of 
light and air. 

The Ci/anopliyllurji mo.gnificum is a woody shrub of 
fine growth, ^yith truly magnificent leaves, about two 
feet long and nine inches wide, of a handsome oval shape, 
tapering to a point. The veins of the leaves are stout, 
and raised in a regular pattern of white on a rich velvety 
- green surface, and the under sides are a full purplish 
crimson. The temperature in summer is 70"^ to 75° 
and in winter 65° to 70°. The soil for it is well mixed 
peat, decayed leaves and silver sand. Let the pots be 
well drained ; water sparingly in winter, well in summer ; 
and let the plant have full exposure to the sun. If it is 
inclined to run up, stop it, to make it shoot from the 
sides. It may be grown from cuttings. 

The Cissus discolor is a splendid climber, with heart- 
shaped pointed leaves, six inches long and two and a half 
broad, beautifully variegated on the upper surface ; rich 
green, clouded and marked with white, peach, and pur- 
plish crimson, and covered with metallic lustre ; while 
underneath they are dark crimson. The veins of the 
leaf and the tendrils of the plant are crimson. Its 
summer temperature is 70° to 75^, and winter 60° to 
65°. It will do well in a compost of peat and loam, 
mixed with well rotted manure. It is a rapid grower 
and requires a rich soil, and it will do nicely to cover a 
wall in a conservatory, to train up pillars or over a 
balloon treUis. It should be shaded from hot sun, 
which destroys its metallic lustre, and the leaves must 
not be watered. It will grow from cuttings of top shoots. 
Cissus loorpliyropliyllus is also a very handsome climber, 
but of slower growth. 

Sonerila Margaritacea is a half-shrubby, low-growing 
plant, which is a perfect gem of beauty, with numerous 
1 shoots and small leaves, marked all over the upper 
j surface with round silvery spots of great beauty and 
( distinctness, and pretty rose-coloured flowers. Its sum- 
mer temperature is 70° to 80*^, and winter 60° to 
65°. Ee-pot the plants in spring, and again in June, 

E 



50 PLOWEES AND THE FLOWEE GAEDE^'. 



During tlie grooving season they must have a moderate 
supply of water, but plenty of moisture in the air; 
in winter they should be put as much to the siin as 
possible, turning them often that every leaf may get its 
share of light. They bloom so abundantly that it is 
advisable when the flowering is half over to cut ofl" the 
flowers, buds and all. In hot days they should be kept 
in a shady part of the house. They are propagated by 
small cuttings in spring, in sand, with heat, under a bell 
glass. The glass should be often wiped and shaded. 

The Alocasia onetallica is one of the most splendid of 
the handsome foliaged plants. It is of the Arum familj^, 
andthrows up its magnificent leaves, from sixteen to twenty 
inches long, and wide in proportion, from the root. The 
diversity of its colours, aided by a brilliant gloss, is too 
variable to describe, and in sunshine produces a positively 
gorgeous efi'ect. It is a native of Borneo. It should be 
grown in a compost of rough fibrous peat, mixed v/ith a 
little well decayed leaf-mould, and a large proportion of 
silver sand. The pot must be well drained, to avoid 
stagnant water round the root, but the plant requires 
plentiful watering and a moist atmosphere. It is propa- 
gated by parting the root, but it makes its offsets freely. 
The young plants, after they are divided, should be 
covered with a glass, and the pots plunged in a bottom 
heat of 83° or 85"^. 

The Hydrangea Japonica variegata is a handsome 
foliaged hydrangea, requiring no higher a temperature 
than 55° to 60° in summer, and 45° to 50° in winter. 
Hydraugeas generally like rich earth, but the variegated 
sort must be kept in poor soil, or the variegation will 
disappear. They like a good deal of water, and are pro- 
pagated by cuttings taken in May. 

There are many more splendid plants whicli I should 
like to add to this list, but I find it already almost too 
long, aud including quite choice enough for persons who 
like to try a few. One, however^ familiar to those who 
visit Covent Garden Market, must not be omitted. The 
Foinsettia inilclierrima is famous for its handsome scarlet 
bracts, which are brilliant enough to exceed flowers in 



EOSES : GROWTH A>''D PEOPAGATIOX. 



51 



gaiety. It requires summer temperature 60° to 70^ 
and winter 50° to 55^ ; likes rich earth, and is propagated 
by cuttings, laid up a few days to dry before being 
planted. When the plant has done flowering, it should 
be cut down to within six inches of the pot, and kept in 
a cool dry situation for two months, and then treated 
with re-potting and more warmth. As the plant grows, 
give more water. 



CHAPTER yilL 

EOSES: GEOWTH A^'D PEOPAGATIO]^^. 

FiEST among flowers in beauty and sweetness, general 
favourite all over the world, without which no flower 
garden can seem bright, the rose, with all its other 
merits, has that also of universal utility ; for there is 
scarcely a garden with situation so unfavourable that 
roses of some kind cannot be found to prosper there, to 
lend fragrance and beauty, where both, from being so 
much needed, are sure to be most thoroughly valued. 

There are very few roses that will do in the immediate 
neighbourhood of large towns, but there are a few, 
among which the old cabbage rose stands supreme, alike 
for beauty and fragrance. That pretty old sort, the 
delicate maiden-blush, too, will do ; true, she often does 
not open very kindly, and sometimes treats her protectors 
to an objectionable green centre; but there are few 
flowers than which even a poor rose is not better, and 
this blooms so abundantly that it can aiford to have some 
imperfect blossoms. The common white rose does well 
and flowers abundantly in gardens which are troubled 
with smoke. The old-fashioned damask rose, although 
deficient m the number of its fine large petals, and 
showiug an objectionable yellow centre, when fully open, 



52 



TLOTVEES AXD THE TLOAYEE G-AEDE>'". 



is sweet, large in size, brilliant in colour, and free in 
growth. The York and Lancaster rose, with its striped 
petals, is much like it ; and the early crimson and the 
common moss roses often do very well. Some rose-growers 
give a long list of choice roses for planting near towns, but 
in my own exj^erience, I have found the purchase of such 
for gardens very close to London, or in any smoke-laden 
locality, lead to disappointment. The five mentioned 
above, and roses of similar habit and hardihood, will 
give a fair variety of colour, and abundant sweetness, in 
any small garden within three miles of the City. In 
choosing roses for such situations, freedom of growth 
must be considered, as well as hardiness ; and bushes or 
any trees on their own roots are better than worked 
plants, as being less likely to be lost from accidents. 
The syringe in summer must be used often, as roses 
cannot do well if the foliage is dirty. Lender unfavourable 
circumstances it is of no use to attempt too much ; but if a 
garden at Islington, or thereabouts as regards distance 
from smoke-creating towns, can be made gay in summer 
with fine cabbage and other common roses, and white 
lilies, preceded by bulbs, daisies, and primroses, and 
followed by dahlias and chrysanthemums, the owner will 
have little cause to complain. 

Getting farther from the smoke, that chief among the 
rose's enemies, we may have an endless variety of per- 
petual, hybrid perpetual. Bourbon, tea-scented China, 
Is'oisette, and China roses, and need only #hut out from 
our collections those which are very tender or very 
touchy. In such localities the list of kinds which will 
not do is more easy to give than that of the choice kinds 
which will thrive. 

All roses are included in the two great divisions — 
summer-blooming and perpetuals. Summer roses mature 
their buds and bloom, and then their flowering is over 
until the next year ; perpetuals begin to bloom early or 
rather late, according to the character of each, and pro- 
duce buds and flowers in continued succession until 
stopped by winter cold. 

Eose-trees are grown in various forms. Standard 



GEOWTH OF EOSES : LAYEEIis'G. 



53 



roses have the stem, ^vithout shoots, from four to five 
feet high, and the head of leaves and flowers at the top. 
Half-standards are of the same form, but the stems are 
from two to two and a half feet high. Dwarf standards 
have the stems a foot or a foot and a quarter in height. 
Eose-bushes are allowed to grow thick and bushy quite 
from the ground. "Weeping roses are roses of rampant 
growth, budded on tall dog-rose stems, and trained or 
allowed to fall over. They are very beautiful, but do not 
do well in a situation exposed to wind. Pillar roses are 
grown tall, and trained up a stake ten or twelve feet 
high : roses for this must be of a vigorous habit of growth. 
Besides these, there are climbing roses for training, and 
dwarf roses for bedding. 

Eoses are either grown on their own roots, or budded 
or grafted on wild rose or other stalks. 

Eose-trees on their own roots may be made by division 
of the root, by layers, by cuttings, or by suckers. 

Layering, or laying down a branch under the soil to 
take root without severing it from the parent plant, 
should be done in summer or autumn. If the work be 
omitted at these times, it may be done in the following 
spring, to save more loss of time ; bat July is best. 
When the shoots of the year's growth are eighteen 
inches or two feet long, which should be about the middle 
of July, take off the leaves from the base of the shoot 
to be layered two-thirds of its length, with a very sharp 
knife. Then carefully bend it down to try the best spot 
for fixing it, and there dig a hole, measuring four or five 
inches every way, and fill it with compost. The shoot 
must then be tongued (?'. e. an incision made in it, cutting 
upwards about half way through, just below a bud), and 
gently twisted so that the cut may remain open. The 
tongued part must be set in the middle of the compost, 
fixed in its place with a peg, and covered to the depth of 
three or four inches. The tongue should be made on the 
shoot above where the bow will come, so that it may not 
be more than two inches under the earth. A large stone 
may be placed on the surface of the ground to fix the 
layer. The compost should be rotten manure and pit 



54 



PLOWEES AND THE ELOWEE GAEDEN. 



sand in equal parts, well mixed. In i^ovember the layers 
may be taken up if they have rooted ; if not, they may 
be removed the following spring, or may be left longer. 
If the shoots are not long enough in July or August, 
the layering may be done in October, or even in February 
and March. The plants intended for layers should be 
cut down very low the year before, that they may make 
long shoots by the time they are wanted. Layering will 
do well with all free growing roses, but it is most needed 
for sorts which do not grow well from cuttings, such 
as the old and other moss-roses, and Provence and Aus- 
trian roses. 

The most satisfactory of all methods of increasing rose- 
trees is by cuttings. Eoses on their own roots are like 
a house founded on a rock : contingencies which destroy 
choice roses on others' roots leave them comparatively 
unharmed. "Within the last few years we had a winter 
(every rose amateur will remember it) which destroyed 
roses to such an extent, in killing down the tops, that it 
raised the price of rose-trees 200 per cent. That year 
we did not lose one, because ours were on their own 
roots, and those which were cut back to the root put 
out again. An intensely severe winter has comparatively 
little mischievous influence over roses on their own 
roots. Violent wind may destroy a budded standard, 
but in the case of one on its own root you always have 
the root left, to put out again, and to produce its own 
kind still. On account of the stability of a rose on its 
own root I especially recommend amateurs to increase 
all roses which can be so grown by cuttings — and non- 
amateurs too, for the matter of that ; for certainly the 
tree least subject to contingencies ought to have the 
highest money value. It requires time and care to make 
tall standards from cuttings, but it may be done, and 
when it is, successfully, the time and care are well paid 
for. A rose which has not stability of character to take 
to its own root must be satisfied to use the root of 
another : and roses diifer as much in character as men 
and women ; but I shall try to name the best sorts which 
will grow well from cuttings. 



GEOwi>'a HOSES moM cuttings. 



55 



Most hardj roses— hybrid perpetuals, Eourbons, and 
tea-roses may be increased by cuttings, whenever good 
cuttings present themselves, and that is during the 
whole of the flowering season. "Whenever the roses die 
off on a fine healthy shoot, cut the shoot with a spur of 
the old wood to form a heel. Fill five or six inch pots 
with a compost of friable loam, leaf-mould, and sand, 
press it pretty firm, and plant the cuttings so as not to 
touch each other ; having previously trimmed them, by 
removing all the leaves from the part which is to go into 
the earth, and all but one or two from the upper part. 
Water them with a fine rose, and place the pots in a 
frame with a gentle bottom heat ; shut up close, and 
shade from the sun. As time goes on, water only when 
necessary with a very fine rose on the watering-pot. 
When they have rooted they may be potted singly, and 
again placed in a frame with a gentle bottom heat, where 
they should be shaded and watered for nine days or a 
fortnight. As the root gains growth they may be har- 
dened, previous to planting out. 

There are many quite first-rate sorts which may be 
grown from cuttings, planted under a handglass on a 
north border in summer. Dig out a space a foot and a 
half deep, and rather larger than the handglass ; put in 
crocks for draining to the depth of half a foot, half a 
foot of manure, and fill it with good compost, as. named 
above. Cut and plant the cuttings in the same way, 
never removing the glass except for necessary watering. 
In this way I have known the following good useful 
roses do well, and make handsome bushes, and, with 
necessary training, standards: — General Jacqueminot, 
Geant des Batailles, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Gloire de 
Dijon, Safranot, Aimee Yibert, Marquise Eoccella, Wil- 
liam Jesse, Eeine d'Angleterre, Jules Margottin, The 
Aurore, Jaune Desprez, Madame Plantier, Pierre de St. 
Cyr, La Eeine, Senateur Yaisse, C(^te de ]S'anteuil, 
William Griffith, Ophirie, Smith's Yellow, Mrs. Eosan- 
quet, jSTapoleon, and many others of similar habits — 
not a bad collection, for a plain garden of modest pre- 
tensions. 



56 



PLOWEES A>'D THE TLOVrER GAHDE^^ 



It 13 a good plan, in planting the cutting, to make a 
hole, put in the cutting, fill up the hole with silver sand, 
water, and press the earth tight. Cuttings may be made 
in spring, summer, or autumn, but we have found no time 
so good as June and July, although in favourable seasons 
they have done well as late as Michaelmas. There is 
another way of planting cuttings, which we have found 
very successful. Get a three-inch pot, stop the bottom 
hole with a cork, Jill it icith v:aiei\ place it inside a six- 
inch pot, with the tops of the two even, and fill up the 
outside pot with compost. P^ant rose cuttings round, 
close against the pot of water, and keep the whole close 
covered with a s^lass, until thev strike, which is often in 
about two months. 

To get cuttings ready early in the year, so that the 
young trees may be ready to plant out early in summer, 
strong rose-trees in pots may be forced in December, 
placing them in a sunny situation to ripen the shoots. 

Propagating by suckers is not often practised, but it is 
useful in the case of Scotch and Austrian roses. 

Eoses on stocks are produced by budding and grafting, 
and for this kind of propagation the first step is to pro- 
cure stocks, which should be planted in November, to be 
ready for working, i.e. budding or grafting, the following 
year. The stocks generally used are from the dog-rose, 
the common wild rose of England, suckers of which can 
be taken out of hedges, or tall stems of whicli can be 
grown, as cuttings, planted deep. They are fi.ttest for 
standards, as the stems grow more kindly than those of 
stocks of a more aristocratic descent. Manetti and 
Celine stocks are the result of seedlings from cultivated 
roses. The black Boursault is another having similar 
origin. They are kept for dwarfs. "When the stocks 
are planted in autumn, the roots should be pruned close, 
and the stems shortened to the height required : for 
standards three o# four feet ; for half standards two or 
three feet ; for dwarf standards one foot — a little more or 
less ; and for rose-bushes to within a few inches of the 
ground. The stocks should be planted in rows three 
feet apart, and it will do good to throw some litter round 



BUDDING EOSES. 



57 



their roots. The Manetti sprang from the hybrid China : 
it was introduced by Mr. Eivers, about thirty years ago, 
from Como, and Mr. Cranston, the rose grower, appre- 
ciates it so highly that he rears over 50,000 a year. The 
Celine stock is a variety of the hybrid Bourbon ; it is 
robust in habit, and is especially good for Noisettes and 
Bourbons. That touchy rose, the Cloth of Gold, does 
better on it than on any other stock. 

Budding has the advantage of giving the vigour of the 
stock to a kind of poorer growth. The season for bud- 
ding is from early in June to late in August; i.e. when- 
ever the scion and the stock are both in a good state, 
from having the sap flowing freely ; otherwise the bud 
will not be ripe, and the bark on the stock will not rise 
freely. Buds should be taken from ripe shoots of the 
current year, and may generally be got when the tree is 
in flower. Budding should be done quickly and dexter- 
ously, to leave no time for either the bud or the incision 
in the stock to dry ; damp cloudy mild weather should 
be chosen, and the best time is early in the morning or 
after the heat of tlie day is past. Where the rose-leaf 
joins the stem a little bud will generally be found ; one 
which is plump and healthy must be chosen. With the 
sharp budding-kmfe pare off the bud, with a portion of 
the bark in the form of a shield, leaving on a portion only 
of the leaf-stalk, by which to hold it, and from behind the 
shield of bark remove what woody fibre there may be, 
leaving the root of the bud full, plump, and undisturbed. 
A plumpness of the bud should be seen inside the bark^ 
In the bark of the stock to be budded make a horizontal 
cut, through the bark only, and from the centre of that 
a perpendicular cut downwards. If the stock is in a 
good state for budding, the angles in this T-shaped cut 
may be readily raised with the budding-knife. Insert 
the bud by pushing its little shield of bark under the 
bark of the stock, from the cross cut downwards, and 
when it is pressed in far enough cut off the upper end of 
the shield at the cross cut. Secure the bud in its place 
by tying it round with soft cotton twist, worsted, or bast, 
and the place may be covered with a coating of cow- 



58 



TLOWEES A^'D THE FLOWEE GAEDEK. 



dung and clay, or left with only tlie ligature. A laurel 
leaf fastened at each end by a ligature round the stock, 
so as to arch over the bud, will defend it from the sun's 
rays, air, and ^Yet, any of which might interfere with its 
growth. The tie which keeps the bud in place must be 
watched and loosened when necessary, which will gene- 
rally be in about three weeks, and removed a few weeks 
later. A few inches should be taken off the briar which 
has been budded, to make the sap flow more to the bud. 
The Manetti stock may be budded later in the season 
than the dog-rose. After the budding, about the month 
of l!s'ovember, not sooner, all the branches not budded 
must be cut from the stock ; they may then remain 
until May, when they must be watched, and have all the 
wild buds rubbed off as they appear, leaving, however, 
two or three shoots above the bud to draw up the sap, 
only nipping off" their ends from time to time until June, 
when they, too, may be cut off. 

Grafting roses is much less frequently resorted to than 
propagating them by other means. Spring is the time 
for it. The stock to be grafted should be forwarder than 
the scion, and operated on when the sap is in activity. 
"Whip, cleft, and saddle grafting may any of them be 
used. Grafting is, however, more fitted for in-door than 
for out- do or cultivation. 

It is not difficult to raise roses from seed, as some 
kinds seed abundantly ; but careful hybridizing or cross- 
ing is too troublesome for the general amateur. The 
sorts for crossing should be judiciously chosen. Upon a 
fine dry day, when the flower is fully expanded, the 
anthers must be cut away with a pair of scissors, to 
prevent the seed following that parent only ; then the 
pollen from the other plant must be placed on the pistil 
with great care, at a time of day when the farina is 
abundant, and the flower so impregnated tied in a gauze 
bag to prevent interference from insects, and the two 
kinds marked and noted down. An easier plan is to plant 
dissimilar varieties side by side, and leave the bees to 
hybridize the seed, and this might prove interesting even 
to amateur rose-growers. 



SEED or EOSES. SOIL TOE P.OSES. 



o9 



Let the seed-pods ripen tborougblj on the tree, and 
when they are gathered put them away in small pots of 
dry sand until February; then rub out the seed, sow it 
in light rich earth mixed with sand, with an inch thick- 
ness of the earth over it, and place the pots or pans in a 
frame, in a shady sheltered spot, taking care that the 
temperature and moisture are kept uniform. The seed- 
lings may spring up in April or May, and they may not 
make their appearance until the following year. "When 
the little plants are strong enough, remove them, with 
care not to disturb the seed left behind, and keep them 
shaded and watered occasionally. Or, if not too thick, 
they may remain where they spring up until they grow a 
good size. They will sometimes flower the first year, 
and so show the colour, but the quality of the rose will 
not be seen until the plant has been established at least 
two years. Single or very poor flowers may be discarded 
at once ; but any which showgood form, distinct colour, 
petals of good substance, and rather full flowers, will be 
worth watching. 



CHAPTEE IX. 

EOS^S: THEIE CULTUEE. 

AisY deep soil, with a cool subsoil, suits roses on the dog- 
rose stock, but a deep stiff loam is best for them. The 
black porous soil sometimes met with in gardens is bad 
for them, and must be improved by a mixture of stiff 
loam. Sharp gravelly and light sandy soils are also bad. 
Eich peat land is not bad, nor bog earth, if it be 
thoroughly drained. The soil of all others is a deep, 
rich, rather retentive, somewhat greasy loam, well 
drained. Eoses on their own roots, or on the Manetti 



60 



FLOWEES AND THE ELOWER GAEDEJ^". 



stock, do not require such a stiff soil as those on the dog- 
rose, but all light soils for roses will be benefited by a 
good allowance of surface manure. In making beds for 
tea*'scented and China roses on their own roots, dig out 
the earth to a good depth, and lay in a layer six or eight 
inches deep of draining material, and then fill in the 
earth, lightening stifi* loam with sand and an abundant 
supply of leaf-mould and well rotted manure. Where 
roses are planted on a lawn, a circle of earth should be 
cleared round them to make beds for them. 

Eoses on briar or other stocks may be planted in 
November or December ; but it the ground be wet, or 
not in good condition, then the planting may be delayed 
until February or early in March. Tea- scented and other 
tender kinds may be planted out in the end of March ; 
and tea-scented, China, hybrid perpetual, and Bourbons, 
on their own roots, not before April. 

Those who buy rose-trees should bespeak them, or 
select and mark them early in autumn, to prevent the 
disappointment arising from buying after the nursery 
stock has been picked over. If they are received before 
the best time for planting, shorten the long fibrous roots, 
and never let the roots get dry, but put them in earth 
directly ; lay them in by the heels, as gardeners call it. 
Tea and tender Noisettes can be put in under a wall, 
where they can be sheltered with mats, or somehow pro- 
tected from frost, until they may be finally planted. 
Choose a fine day for planting, when the earth is moist, 
but not wet enough to stick to the spade or shoe. Good 
compost is, for light soils, well rotted cow manure and 
rich stiff loam from an old pasture ; and for stifi* land 
the manure, with sand or burnt earth, allowing a barrow- 
ful each to large trees and half that quantity to small 
ones. Dig the hole for the root quite large enough, 
spread the roots evenly to their full extent, level the 
earth and shake it in about the roots, holding the plant 
the while, that it may not sink too deep, and tread in the 
earth. Care must be taken not to plant dog-rose stocks 
too deep. Manetti stocks, on the contrary, are worked 
quite low down, to allow of their being planted so that 



MAXUEE rOE EOSES. 



61 



the union of the bud or graft with the stock may be under 
the surface of the ground. Tall roses should be pruned, 
to prevent the wind tearing them, and they should have 
stakes. Standards should be planted three feet apart, 
and rose-bushes from twenty-one inches to two feet. 

Pig manure is the best animal manure for roses. jS'ext 
night-soil, cow manure, and horse manure; the sweepings 
of poultry and pigeon-houses are also good. They should 
lie in a heap long enough to be thoroughly rottcD, but 
not long enough to lose the ammonia. Pig dung should 
be spread and forked in at once early in spring. Night- 
soil should be mixed with sand, charcoal dust, or some 
such dry substance, and spread and dug in in winter. A 
surface dressing of rotted manure should be applied in 
autumn, allowing two shovelfuls to each standard or other 
tall tree. Por summer surface dressing, wood ashes, 
with an eighth of guano, is good, a quarter of a peck to 
each tree, spread over a circle three feet in diameter ; 
this dressing should have abundant watering in dry- 
weather. Brewers' grains, thrown to ferment for not 
less than three weeks, and mixed with one-fourth of 
burnt earth, is a powerful stimulant ; give half a peck or 
a peck to each tree in winter. The following manures 
have also been recommended : — Soot, wood ashes and 
charcoal (especially for tea-scented and others on their 
own roots), bone dust, and bones in half-inch bits 
(lasting, and especially good for tea and other roses on 
their ow^n roots) ; guano and super-phosphate are good, 
but they must be used with caution, or they may sacri- 
fice bloom to rampant growth. They are best applied 
in liquid manure, and in that form they suit light soil 
well. Liquid manure of all kinds should be applied 
while the trees are freely making their growth, and 
again to perpetuals when the first bloom dies off. 
Every rose-grower should establish a vessel for liquid 
manure, large in proportion to the number of roses 
under cultivation : it may be half filled with manure 
balls from well-fed horses or sitting hens, or with any 
rich manure, and filled up with water again and again 
for some time. This may be used freely with any roses 



62 



PLOWERS AJsJ) TnE FLOWER GAME^'. 



whicli are in a thorougUj liealthy state, and making 
good growth, but very cautiously with any which look a 
little sickly. If a rose is exhausting itself with abun- 
dant flowering, it may have liquid manure almost with- 
out stint. 

In the spring the earth round every rose should be 
stirred to the depth of one or two inches, and again 
whenever the surface gets hard, taking great care later 
in the season not to disturb the roots. In forking, 
many gardeners are apt to be very careless of the roots of 
trees and plants, and want watching in this particular. 

To keep the growth, of roses within bounds and in 
good shape, disbudding, or rubbing off all the buds likely 
to produce shoots where they are not wanted, or where 
they will be too crowded, prevents much after trouble in 
pruning. After the buds are fairly started, look over 
the tree with eye " on the visioned future bent," and 
rub off or cut out all that are likely to shoot in a 
wrong direction, and thin out wherever the shoots 
threaten to become too crowded. This will not only 
improve the growth but it will strengthen it. 

Pruning is chiefly done in the spring. Trees may be 
cut back to four or six eyes the first year after budding, 
as soon as the sap rises and the buds are observed to 
swell. If they are planted out in the autumn of their 
first year they may need a little shortening then, to 
prevent the wind having too much power over them, 
but they should not be pruned closely when newly 
planted. 

"When the established trees are pruned, the pruning 
must be done with reference to the growing shoots 
forming a good and not too crowded head or bush. To 
ensure uniformity of growth on all sides of the tree, all 
the shoots left should be of about equal size, and any 
of rampant growth had better be shortened, and their 
lateral shoots stopped as often as necessary. In shorten- 
ing shoots, cut close to an eye, leaving, as far as prac- 
ticable, stout plump buds, because they are likely to 
produce flowers ; and spare also those that turn the 
right way, to give the tree a handsome shape. 



PEr^'IXG EOSES 



63 



French, moss, alba, Provence, damask, and Austrian 
roses require close pruning ; that is, the wood of the 

' vear before is cut back to within an inch or two of the 
two Years old wood, leaving on these shoots only two or 
three eyes, which will throw out as many shoots, with 
bloom/ To make the plant conical, prune the centre 
shoots closer than the outer and lower ones ; they will 

j then grow in advance of the sides, and thus make the 

* plant pyramidal in shape. The vigorous growers may 
have more moderate pruning : for the strong shoots six 
inches, the weaker ones four. 

Hybrid China and hybrid Bourbons require care in 
pruning, as with them pruning their long rampant 
. shoots may spoil the flowering. These rampant growers 

■ may be thinned out ; the strong shoots should be left 

■ two feet or more in length, and the weaker one foot or 
eighteen inches. With some kinds it is necessary to 
leave the strong shoots their full length, while with 
those of moderate growth the sprays may be about six 
inches or a foot. These vigorous growers will often 

, decline after a few years ; when they do so it will be 

• advisable to prune closer. It may be well even to 
prime quite close, and force the tree to make new wood 

' and a better form. In a healthy tree cut back, nev; 

eyes will form, even in quite old wood. 
|: Austrian briars require different pruning from any 

other roses. The Harrisonii. must only be thinned out, 

and their sprays just tipped. The Persian yellow must 

be pruned in quite close every alternate year, to keep 

it from exhausting itself. 

Hybrid perpetuals, damask perpetuals, perpetual moss 
J and Bourbon roses should be pruned some time in 
, March. These roses are very numerous, and present 

wide differences in habit. Those of a dwarf and mode- 
I rate growth may be pruned down to two or three eyes, 
! and aU weak and crowded shoots removed. Those of 
i more robust growth may be thinned out the same : the 
I strong shoots may be cut to six or eight inches long, 

an^ the smaller ones to four or five. 

The tea-scented, Xoisette, and China roses may be 



64 FLOWEES AND THE FLOWER GAEDE5T. 



attended to, with the knife, at the end of March or 
beginning of April, and they do not generally require 
close pruning. Especially with the tea-scented and 
China roses, only thin out small weak wood, and shorten 
the sprays a little. In the vigorous growing Noisettes 
the shoots should be left long. That fine yellow rose, 
the Cloth of Grold, is worthy of great care on account of 
its beauty, but it is a shy bloomer. It must have a 
place against a south wall, be well manured every year, 
and have no more pruning than just enough to keep it 
trained. To make it bloom, get it to grow freely; when 
established and in vigorous growth it will bloom freely, 
both in summer and autumn. In severe winters it 
must be protected. 

Banksian roses will seldom bloom until they have 
been established three or four years. They must be 
pruned after the flower has gone oif, which is generally 
the end of May or beginning of June ; shorten long 
vigorous shoots nearly a third ; the bloom comes on the 
one and two years' old wood. 

An attempt to enter into the merits of all the 
varieties of all the different classes would spread out 
the sechapters to too great a length ; but those who wish 
to judge and select can easily get a good choice in the 
published lists at the flower shows, or from the rose- 
growers. 

In selecting for planting, we want to know of each 
one, the kind, the habit of growth, and the colour ; and 
all these items are specially noted in rose catalogues 
published by all the rose-growers who exhibit at the 
flower shows : these lists are laid round the stands for 
the use of visitors at the horticultural meetings, or are 
willingly sent by the rose-growers to any who may 
apply for them ; and therein we may find all our named 
favourites, with all their characteristics noted down, and 
the price of each. 

The following are the important points of a good 
rose : Constitution should be hardy, healthy, and of a 
tolerably robust habit of growth, with good foliage, and 
a good bloomer. The flower must be fine In form, full, 



TLORISTS' FLOWEES : AITEMONES. 



65 



large in size, and decided and distinct in colour. The 
form of the flower, whether it be cupped, globular, or 
widely expanded, should be symmetrical ; the petals even 
and regular in their arrangement, full, but not too 
crowded ; the outer range broad and firmly set, rendering 
the flower lasting. In texture they should be firm and 
thick, not thin and flimsy. Fragrance, and a firm 
upright stem, are points. A green or yellow centre to 
a flower when open is a great fault. 



CHAPTEE X. 

FLOEISTS' PLOWEES : A^^EMO^'ES, CALCEOLAEIAS, 
CAE]S^ATIO^^S, CnETSAKTHE:M:UMS, CINEEAEIAS. 

The term florists' flowers is applied to those kinds 
which can be brought to a great degree of perfection 
and novelty in size, colour, and other properties, by 
careful cultivation. Such flowers and plants are reared 
with exact precision by gardeners and amateurs ; they 
have special classes at horticultural shows, and the 
attainment of a new variety in any of them is a great 
triumph to the grower. I only purpose to enter into 
the merits of these to the extent which will be found 
useful in a little work like the present. 

As a great desideratum is to grow new varieties, it is 
a good thing if such flowers hybridize freely, or vary 
much when grown from seed. 

Anemones, as common garden flowers, five or seven 
roots in a patch, may be grown without diflSculty, and 
form pretty cluDips of gay bloom ; but to rear them in 
high order requires more care. To make an anemone 
bed, dig out the earth to the depth of a foot, spread a 
I layer of well-rotted cow manure six or eight inches 
I thick, over this spread fresh loam, enough to raise the 
beds three or four inches above the level of the path or 
grass around, and let it be ready for planting in October. 

F 



6G PLOTTEES A^"D THE FLOTTEE GAEDEN. 



Eake the surface very fine, and make in it farrows to 
receive the anemone roots, five inches apart and two 
inches deep. Plant the roots, buds upwards, four inches 
apart, strewing some sand in with them ; little bits 
which break oft may be planted, and they will become 
roots. The anemones, as they shoot, must be protected 
from frost with mats, stretched over hoops, or any 
efficient covering of the sort ; and this must be removed 
whenever the weather permits, or the roots will sufier 
from damp. l\^hen the plants grow, let them be watered 
with rain water, enough to save the fibrous roots from 
withering from drought. "When they have done flower- 
ing, the beds should be covered again with hoops and 
mats to keep them from wet, and in about a month the 
leaves will have withered, when the tubers may be taken 
up, thoroughly dried, and kept in a dry safe place until 
the season for replanting them comes round. 

For raising seedling anemones, the seed should be 
cleared from the flufi", and sown in August, and the 
young tubers may be taken up when the leaves wither 
the following summer, and planted again in autumn, to 
flower the year after. To increase the varieties, divide 
the tubers, but not too much, or the plants will come weak. 
The beds may be kept longer in bloom, if the roots are 
put in at three difl'erent dates : the end of September, 
October, and very early in spring. They will not do in 
a stiff* soil. If the leaves are distorted, the earth pro- 
bably wants more draining. To prevent mildew, mix a 
little salt or sea sand in making the bed ; to try to "cure 
it, sprinkle with sulphur. 

The points of a good single anemone are : a strong 
elastic erect stem, nine inches high, or more ; flower two 
and a half inches across ; petals large and stout, standing 
out horizontally at first, and then turning upwards into a 
shallow cup; colour, when mixed, clear and distinct; 
when unbroken, brilliant and striking. Double ane- 
mones should have the outer petals quite flat, the second 
range shorter, the third shorter still, and so on, with the 
centre full ; the flower should form a rather flat hemi- 
sphere. The double anemones must be self coloured. 



TLOEISTS' TLOAVEES I CALCEOLARIAS. G7 

The anemones wliicli are cultivated as florists' 
flowers, are the oflspring of Anemonia coronaria and 
Anemonia Tiortensis, multiplied ad injinitim; besides 
these, there are many other kinds. 

The Anemonia Japonica or perennial anemone, is 
a nice, hardy, free blooming garden plant, which will do 
in any common garden soil, and produce its profusion of 
large, deep pink, anemone-like flowers from the end of 
summer until winter ; it can be increased by division of 
the root to almost any extent. 

Calceolarias, besides being favourites to cultivate as 
florists' flowers, make gay flowers for the garden, to 
plant in groups, or for bedding plants ; but as they will 
not stand frost, young plants should be made in the 
autumn, separated and planted in pots singly in the 
spring, gradually hardened by May, and then planted 
out. 

For choice calceolarias use the following compost : 
one bushel of light sandy yellow loam (if it be not 
sandy, add sifted river sand), a quarter of a bushel of 
leaf-mould, and half a peck of thoroughly decayed cow- 
manure ; mix it well, and let it be used rather dry. 
Seed may be sown either as soon as it is ripe, or in 
sprhig ; and as soon as the seedlings are up they may be 
placed on a shelf, near the glass, in an airy greenhouse. 
' When they are large enough, plant them singly in 21- 
inch pots, and re-pot them as often as they want it, until 
they are in G-inch pots, and then let them flower. Those 
that are good in form, bright and distinct in the colours, 
and of a fair size, re-pot again, and keep to increase by 
i cuttings, and all indifferent flowers can be used to make 
i the garden gay. Cuttings may be taken when the 
' flowering is over in August, or in 3Iarch. Commence 
I potting autumn-struck cuttings early in March, and 
^ I those struck in spring as soon as they are fit. Let the 
j pots be well drained with crocks. Ee-pot about three 
times, and leave the plants in 11-inch pots to bloom, 
keeping them near the glass in a light airy greenhouse, 
giving them plenty of air. Iso flower stem must be 
left until the plants have made their growth. They 

F 2 



68 ¥LOWEES klsB THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

should be in perfection early in July, each plant being 
two feet high and as much across, and then the flower 
stems may be allowed to grow. The plants require a 
great deal of training and tying before they are con- 
sidered presentable. As soon as the flowers are dead, 
cut them ofl*, unless seed be required; cut down the 
stems, and put the plants out of doors, or in a cold pit ; 
give plenty of air, and return them to the greenhouse 
before frost ; keep them there until cuttings are taken in 
March, and then they will be no more wanted : for old 
plants are not handsome, and are thrown aside as useless. 

Calceolarias do not bear forcing well, and they are 
subject to a disease a little like that of the potato, 
which seems to be contagious, so that when dark spots 
appear on the leaves and stems, the plants aff'ected 
should be removed at once. Wet at the root is sup- 
posed to cause it. 

Carnations should have a place in every garden where 
they will grow, no less for their beauty than for their 
delicious fragrance. As florists' floorers, they are divided 
into three classes : Tlakes are striped with one colour 
and white ; Bizarres are streaked with two colours and 
white ; Picotees, which are the hardiest as well as per- 
haps the most beautiful, have each petal margined with 
colour on a white or yellow ground, or dotted with very 
small spots. The beautiful and deliciously scented 
clove is said to be the original form of the carnations. 

To make a compost for growing carnations, take loam 
from an upland pasture, cutting thick turfs from the 
surface. Let them lie in a heap for a year, turning 
them over every month, and picking out the wireworm 
with great care. To this add one fifth part of cow- 
manure which has laid to rot two years, and a fifth part 
of well decayed vegetable mould. Mix these together, 
and let them lie three months longer, turning them over 
three or four times during that time. 

Choice carnations are very often grown in pots. 
They are planted for flowering, generally in pairs, about 
the end of March, in 11-inch pots, well drained with 
crocks (as they are injured by much moisture), and 



FLOEISTS' FLOTVEES CAEXATIONS. 



69 



'with the earth well pressed about the roots. Use the 
compost without sifting, but look through it well for 
wireworms. Place the pots in a sheltered part of the 
garden, on a bed of coal ashes, water when necessary, 
and as the flower stems shoot up, place a stick to each, 
high enough for the flower when it comes out, and tie 
the stems very slackly. for fear of their bending or break- 
ing. As the buds swell, thin out all but the most plump 
and healthy. When the flower begins to open, it is 
very apt to burst unevenly. To prevent this place an 
Indian rubber ring round the bud, or tie it with a bit of 
bast, and if it is inclined to burst on one side only, cut 
the calyx a little open at two other places, with a fine 
pair of scissors. When one side of a flower is spreading 
too much towards the sun, turn the pot round. To 
make flowers bloom in fine spreading form, paper collars 
are put round them, to which to spread the bloom. The 
collar is a round piece of stifi" white paper, with a hole 
in the middle to receive the calyx, the leaves of which 
are turned down to keep it in its place. The outer 
range of petals is arranged on the white paper, and it 
should not extend beyond; and then, range after range to 
the centre, the petals are put in nice order, and I 
believe the tweezers are used with any which are insub- 
ordinate or faulty. When flowers are exhibited, all this 
manipulation seems hardly fair, but it is a question 
which the most influential judges would find it difficult 
to place under rule. Before the plants come into bloom 
they should be ranged on stages or stands, the feet of which 
should be placed in earthen or leaden cups for water fifteen 
inches wide and three or four inches deep, with a socket 
in the centre large enough to receive the feet, to keep 
ofl* the approach of slugs, and all creeping destroyers. 
The stands should have an awning to keep off* sun and 
rain. Watch the flower stems to support them as they 
grow taller. The flowers come in June or July. 

Carnations are generally propagated by layers laid 
down the end of July and beginning of August, when 
the plants are in full flowering vigour : the earlier it can 
be done, the better the layers will be established before 



70 



TLOWESS AXD THE TLOTTEE, GAEDEX. 



^vinter. Choose fine healthy outside shoots, not those 
which have, or have had, flowers. As earth to cover 
the layers, have ready a compost of light loam and leaf- 
mould, half and half ; and the best pegs for fixing them 
are made of fronds of the common fern, birch, or hazel 
twigs. Dress the stems intended for layering by cutting 
off all the lower leaves, leaving about six nearest the top 
untouched. If there are too many good shoots in the 
pot, take some off for pipings. Zvlake an incision with 
a very sharp knife on the under side of the first layer, 
just below the third joint, bringing the knife slanting 
upwards partly through the joint. Still holding the 
cutting, take a hooked peg in the other hand, and with 
it fasten down the layer, pressing it gently, but firmly, 
down to the soil. Proceed in the same way with the 
layers all round the plant, and then cover the slit joint 
with the compost to an inch in depth. Do not water 
the newly layered plant until the next day, by which 
time the wounds will have healed over partially. 
Layering is done in the same way when the roots are 
planted out of doors. The young plants may be sepa- 
rated from the parent plant, and potted, in August. 

Carnations may also be propagated by pipings, when 
the flowering is over. Fill the necessary number of pots 
with the compost prepared for the carnations nearly up 
to the top, and fill up with silver sand. Break off the 
pipings at the third joint, then in each piping cut a 
little upward slit, plant them in the sand pretty thickly, 
and place the pot on a gentle hot-bed, on a bed of sifted 
coal ashes or river sand; put on the sashes, and shade 
the pipings from the sud, until they have rooted, then 
harden them off gradually, and plant them out into 
small pots. 

The chief points in a carnation are a firm upright 
flower stem, calyx well and regularly opened, flower 
round, with the petals regularly disposed, largest out- 
side, decreasing in size to the centre, and colour clear 
and distinct. Those with stripes should have the stripes 
widest at the edge of the petals. 

The yellow picotee carnations are very striking. These 



FLOEISTS' FLOWEES : PLN'KS ASJ) CHEYSA^'THEMrilS. 71 

beautiful flowers, in all their varieties, need by no means be 
! neglected by persons who do not care for them as florists' 
1 flowers, for their culture is quite within the scope of any 
lady's gardening. Good carnations are often grown from 
seed. Packets of seed of twelve choice kinds are sold for 
3^. and Ss, 6cL by Messrs. Carter, of Holborn, and no 
^ doubt by other first-class seedsmen. Sow the seed in 
the spring, and when the seedlings have made six or 
eight leaves prick them out in pots or prepared beds : 
the next year will show their merits. 

Pmks naturally seem to follow carnations. The 
commoner sorts are most useful in a garden, especially 
the white, white and chocolate, and deep pink and 
chocolate, which form great patches of their respective 
decided colours, and keep flowering for a long time. 
They will thrive in almost any garden, but require rich 
earth to make the bloom fine and large. Beds for 
choice, i.e. the laced pinks, should be made with loam 
and a fourth part of well rotted manure, raised above 
! the ground around, and highest in the middle. Pinks 
require similar cultivation to carnations, but they are 
raised by pipings taken in 3Iay or June. Plant in 
rows, twelve inches apart every way, shelter them in 
I , winter (wet is more injurious to carnations and pinks 
If than a slight degree of frost), stir the earth round the 
roots in spring, and mulch them with a little well 
decayed stable manure early in June. Pinks, when 
good, have the edge of the petal white, the lacing dis- 
tinct and fringed at both edges, and a distinct eye at 
the base of the petal. The flower should be very large. 
Old plants are not good for the florist, but form nice 
roots for the borders. 

That curiously stifl* looking, yet pretty and varied 
flower, the Sweet "William, belongs to the Bianthus 
I family also. 

The Chrysanthemum has even a greater merit than 
f the gaiety and endless variety of its handsome flowers : 
' there is no other plant so brilliant in bloom, that can 
so easily be cultivated under the disadvantages of a 
crowded smoky locality. All who have seen the coUec- 



I 



72 



FLOWEES AKD THE FLOWEE GAEDE^'. 



tion of chrysanthemums in the Temple Gardens, in the 
very heart of London, will give this plant due praise for 
this its especial merit ; and all seers owning little gar- 
dens at home, struggling through the disadvantage of a 
smoke-laden atmosphere, and looking miserable from an 
attempt to cultivate plants that object to smoke and 
soot, should at once make chrysanthemums their especial 
gardening specialty. A flower which is of every shade, 
of almost every colour, and varying in size from one 
inch to four inches across, is not like one flower ; it is a 
host in itself. It grows freely in a light rich soil, and 
flowers most abundantly from October to December. 
Our old favourites, the large flowered kind, than which 
nothing is handsomer in appearance, are the progeny of 
C. Sinense; and the later favourites, the pretty pom- 
pons, have sprung from the Chinese daisy, sent home 
by Mr. Portune. 

Chrysanthemums may be increased by all modes of 
propagation. Take cuttings in February ; young shoots, 
three inches long, cut with a sharp knife, and plant 
them round a medium-sized pot, filled with sandy loam, 
with a layer of pure sand on the surface. "Water the 
cuttings to settle the earth to them, place the pot on 
coal ashes or river sand, in a warm place, and cover it 
with a hand glass. When they have grown they may 
be potted ofi" separately, and put under hand glasses 
again, for a time. Ee-pot whenever the roots reach the 
pot, and keep them where they will be safe from frost 
and damp. They will bloom the same year. 

To procure low dwarf plants, plant out in the open 
ground some old plants, as soon as the frost is fairly gone, 
and peg down some of the branches. Then when these 
have formed flower buds, sink small pots filled with light 
rich earth, peg down one of the branches into each pot, 
giving it at the same time a little twist, cover with half 
an inch of soil, and it will root. When the layers are 
well rooted they may be divided from the parent plant, 
and placed in the shade until they are established, and 
they will be nice showy little plants for the front row in 
a stage of chrysanthemums. Chrysanthemums may also be 



CnETSA>'THEMrMS POTS. 



73 



increased by suckers, division of the root, and seed. The 
seed must be taken from flowers of a fine shape nd bright 
colour, and sown in February, slightly covered with finely 
sifted soil. Give them a little heat, gentle watering with a 
fine rose when dry, and when they get three or four 
leaves they may be planted singly in small pots, kept 
I in a temperature of 55° to 60^, and re-potted whenever 
they require it. Some will flower the same year. 

You can scarcely give chrysanthemums earth which is 
too rich : in a mixture of half and half light loam and 
decayed dung, with a little addition of peat, they will 
grow and flower well. 

Plants which are intended to bloom in pots should be 
shifted into good-sized pots in April. For plants grown 
from the spring cuttings 9-inch pots should be used, and 
for older plants 12-inch. At every potting, stop the 
shoots to make the plants grow bushy. The last pot- 
ting should be in the middle of June ; then and from 
that time discontinue nipping off" the ends of the shoots. 
As the branches grow, tie them out so as to give them 
room and air ; and with plants intended for exhibition 
thin the buds that the bloom may be large. "While 
they are in full growth give them plenty of water, and 
liquid manure once a week. jS'ever let them flag from 
the first to the end of the flowering, but water, with a 
rose, over head and all twice a day in hot weather. 
From May until they flower they should stand on a bed 
of ashes, or on gravel, in an open situation, and when 
they begin to flower they may be removed into the 
house, taking care to give them plenty of room. AYhen 
the flowering is over, cut down the shoots which have 
bloomed, place the pots in a cool pit, and give just water 
enough to keep them alive, until the growing season 
approaches again. Chrysanthemums are nearly hardy, 
and do not need much protection, only a covering of a 
mat or so to keep out severe frost. The old plants 
which grow unmanageable in pots will be very hand- 
some in the flower borders, where they will keep up a 
gay show in autumn. 

There are several pretty showy annual chrysanthe- 



74 FLOWEES Al^D THE ELOWEE GAEDEJT. 



mums, which, should be sown in the open borders in 
April, 

Cinerarias are gay in spring, for the decoration of 
rooms or stands, with their bright masses of bloom- 
purple, pink, carmine, violet, bright blue, lilac and 
white, and sometimes a pretty mixture of two colours. 
They are grown from cuttings or seed, and good soil for 
them is a mixture of peat, loam, leaf-mould, and sand. 
To get cuttings, cut down the plants when they have 
flowered ; and when they have grown again sufiS.ciently 
take off the cuttings, and plant them in pots filled with 
the compost, with a layer of silver sand on the surface. 
"When the cuttings have thrown shoots about three 
inches high, they should be stopped to make the plants 
grow bushy. They should be re-potted whenever the 
roots grow well, before they get too much matted, and 
be treated occasionally with a little liquid manure. The 
seed should be sown as soon as it is ripe, and scarcely 
covered with earth. Cinerarias may also be increased 
by offsets. They are terribly subject to the green fly, 
which must be watched and destroyed by fumigation 
when it makes its destructive appearance. 



CHAPTEE XI. 

FLOEISTS' ELOWEES — DAHLIAS, ErCHSIAS, HYACI^'THSj 
PALSIES, PELlEGOyiUMS. 

Dahlias are cultivated as florists' flowers, but they 
are, like several I have already mentioned, in such gene- 
ral use as handsome useful garden flovrers, that they 
may be considered to have both characters. Although 
they flower in autumn, and keep flowering until quite 
late, they will not bear the slightest degree of frost ; the 
tuberous roots must not consequently be put in the 
open ground until there is little chance of more sharp 
weather ; and if frost should come late, the young plants 



TLOEISTS' TLOWEES : DAKLIAS. 



75 



must be covered at night witli large clean garden pots. 
Thev require a deep rich friable soil, but not over rich, 
which produces fine leaves at the expense of flowers. 
The ground may be trenched as deep as its nature will 
allow (a foot and a half or two feet deep), and a good 
layer of decomposed manure afterwards laid on the 
surface, and at once dug in a spit deep. Lay the soil 
thus prepared up in ridges until the time for putting in 
the dahlias, when it may be raked level. The roots, 
having been kept through the winter in a dry place, 
safe from frost, are started in a hotbed to show where 
the eyes are. They may then be divided, taking care 
that each piece has a portion of the collar, with an eye 
or two, and planted in pots, kept safe from frost, and 
turned out when the time comes, either spaced about 
the beds or in entire beds. The dwarf kinds make 
good bedding plants, pegged down. To be fine and 
good in colour, dahlias must have plenty of room and 
air, and they should have a spot sheltered from high 
winds, as the branches are heavy and brittle. It is best 
to fix the stakes before putting in the roots. Dwarf 
kinds should be five feet apart, and the taller ones six. 
"When they have grown up into nice bushy plants throw 
a little half-rotted stable litter round each to preserve 
them from drought, and to give nutriment when they are 
watered. As they grow large they will want plentiful 
watering in hot weather. When they are high enough 
to require it, they must be tied to the stake with broad 
shreds of soft bast, and the side shoots will also require 
tying with longer pieces to prevent their being broken 
with wind and heavy rain. It is sometimes necessary 
to place some side stakes round the centre one, to which 
to tie the side branches. The thinnings of larch planta- 
tions make the best stakes. As soon as frost touches 
the tops of the plants, cut them down and dig up the 
roots at once. If they come up clean and dry they may 
be put away very soon, but if the soil clings to the 
tubers it must be cleaned from them, and they must be 
dried. The place for storing them must be safe from 
frost, and dry, but not dry enough to make the roots get 



76 TLOWEES AND THE FLOWER GAEDE>^. 

shrivelled. The chief points in a fine dahlia are the 
shape and form of the flowers ; thej are globe-shaped, 
quilled, dwarf, &c., and must never on any account 
show green or yellow in the centre. The flowers, of 
whatever kind, must be perfectly circular in shape, and 
each circle of petals should be as nearly as possible a 
perfect circle too. 

"When the flowers are intended for exhibition, they 
must be protected with caps of oiled canvas, stretched 
on wire frames, or with garden pots turned upside down 
on the top of a stake, to which the flower is carefully 
tied. Boxes made on purpose are sometimes used, For 
sending the flowers to an exhibition cut them overnight, 
and arrange them in boxes which are made on purpose, 
with a watertight tube to receive each stalk. Fill the 
little tubes with water, pass the stalk of each flower 
through a plug of wood made to fit the tin tube like a 
cork, and having a hole through the centre just large 
enough to admit the stalk and hold it firmly. Place a 
lid on the box, with room for it to avoid touching the 
flowers. 

Dahlias may be propagated from cuttings of the young 
shoots which first spring from the roots, or young tops 
taken off at a joint, any time from February to August. 
This is especially valuable for the early increase of new 
sorts. If there are plenty of shoots from the roots some 
can be spared, when three inches long, taken close down 
to the bulb ; but if there are none to spare well, cut them 
off so as to leave two buds at the base of the shoot to 
grow again. Plant the cuttings in pots filled with light 
earth and a layer of silver sand on the top, and place 
them on a gentle hot-bed ; if the pots can be plunged in 
coal ashes, or such like, they will strike the sooner 
Water them carefully and moderately, and shade them 
from the sun. They ought to strike in a fortnight or 
three weeks, and may then be potted in S^-inch pots, 
and kept close for several days to make more root. Then 
they may be put in a cool frame, shaded from the sun, 
and kept safe from frost and wet. Before the roots get 
matted, pot again into 4i-inch pots, and then begin to 



TLOEISTS' PLOWEES : FUCHSIAS. 



77 



give air daily, and keep them well watered. The cut- 
tings will make nice little tubers by the end of the year. 

isew dahlias may be got from seed. Gather seed, as 
soon as it is ripe, from flowers of distinct colour and 
good form ; hang the pods up in a dry place, and when the 
scales of the pods turn brown, separate the seed, dry it 
(in the morning sun only), and pnt it by in a dry place. 
Sow the seed in March, and as soon as the seedlings are 
large enough, plant them ofl* singly in small pots, and as 
soon as there is no longer chance of frost, plant them out 
a foot apart and allow them to flower. All which pro- 
duce bad-shaped or dull-coloured flowers, may be thrown 
away at once ; but such as have flowers of good colour 
and shape, with petals of good form, should be kept 
another year for trial. Any that turn out very good 
had better be propagated by cuttings from the young 
tops to save the kind in case the root should die. 

Fuchsias are no less popular than dahlias, and are even 
more beautiful than they. They grow quite freely in 
the open air, but unless in warm sheltered positions, 
they must be protected for the winter, or taken up. As 
they produce new sorts readily from seed, the varieties 
are almost innumerable. They are greedy of manure, 
and will do well in a mixture of one-half mellow strong 
yellow loam, one quarter thoroughly decayed leaf-mould, 
and one quarter old hot-bed manure, all well mixed. 
Coccinea, virgata, conica, gracilis, and glolosa, do well 
out of doors, and all the attention they need is to cut 
them down after the first frost, and cover the roots with 
moss, coal ashes, or other litter, to keep out the frost ; 
to remove this in April, and thin out the shoots in May. 

Fuchsias grow well from cuttings taken in February 
and March, needing thus early a little heat to stimulate 
them into growth. The best bits for cuttings are said 
I to be young shoots taken off close to the old wood as 
I soon as they are an inch long. Plant them in pots of 
I loam and leaf-mould, equal parts, and a layer of silver 
sand on the surface. Water the earth to make it firm, 
trim the lower leaves from the cuttings, plant them, 
give another gentle watering, and place them on a mild 



78 TLOWERS ASB THE FLOWER GAEDEX. 



hot-bed. When they have rooted, pot thein off, and re- 
pot them as they require it. 'Not that taking fuchsia j 
cuttings need be confined to spring ; they will grow all ^ 
through the growing season, and root so readily, that 
whenever a shoot is broken by accident it may be put 
in at the side of the pot of the parent plant, and in due 
course it too will become a nice plant. 

ISTew kinds may be reared from seed ; and to get new 
varieties, impregnate the pistil of one with the pollen 
from another, and when the seed is ripe gather the 
berries, crush them, wash away the pulp, and dry the 
seed on a paper in the sun. Sow the seed in March, 
plant out as soon as the seedlings are large enough to 
handle, and let them be until they fiower, and as soon 
as they fiower discard the poor and keep the good ones. 

Puchsias in pots must be new potted in the spring, re- 
moving some of the old soil, and trimming the roots and 
branches, so as to leave the plants in a pyramidal form ; 
fill in with proper soil, water moderately, syringe over 
the whole plant often, and when they are in full growth 
give liquid manure. Toung plants should be stopped to 
make them grow bushy. Euchsias are very handsome, 
grown to a single stem. The potting should be finished 
with 12-inch pots, which are large enough for fine plants 
fit for exhibition. As soon as the flowering is over, the 
young plants may be placed out of doors in some open 
part of the garden. The old plants may be planted out 
in the borders, as they will not be handsome a third 
year. "When frost begins, take the pots in-doors ; they 
will do in any place where they can be kept from frost, 
and will require very little water through the winter. 

The Hyacinth has the merit of being quite the oldest 
cultivated of florists' flowers, and its fragrance is equal 
to its stately beauty. Simply planted in the flower 
borders, hyacinths are handsome, sweet, and easy to 
grow in great beauty; as fine roots, only requiring 
planting out and proper treatment, may always be 
bought. "Wherever you wish to place the bulbs, loosen 
the earth late in autumn with the spade, to the depth of 
a foot, and clear it of intruding roots from neighbouring 



TLOEISTS' FLOWEES : HTACI^'THS. 



79. 



plants. Arrange tlie bulbs — a centre one, and the rest in 
a circle round it — near together, well pressed into the 
earth, and covered with three or four inches' depth of 
earth, if it be garden loam, and five or six if it be sandy. 
The hyacinth is hardy, and more likely to sufi'er from 
wet than from frost ; so, if the soil be not very light, a 
little gutter may be scraped out round the roots to drain 
oft' the superabundant wet ; or the bulbs may be planted 
on a sloping border, and that will answer the same purpose. 
Thus planted, they will flower well even for three years. 

The more artistic method of growing hyacinths is plant- 
ing them in beds, where the beautiful flowers and gay 
variety of colour look very well. To make the beds, dig 
out the earth in September to the depth of three feet, 
and fill up to one foot above the surrounding ground 
with sandy loam, mixed with leaf-mould and well rotted 
cow-manure, or that from an old hot-bed. In October, 
plant the roots six inches deep and six inches apart, and 
during the winter protect them from severe frost and too 
much wet. When the bloom comes an awning should 
be put over the bed to shade it from sun and wet. As 
soon as the flowering is over, give plenty of air, and 
when the leaves turn yellow, take up the roots, label 
each with its name and colour, and place them in an 
airy shady place, until they are quite dry. Clean the 
roots, rub olf the dry rootlets, and store them, upside 
down, on a shelf of laths until the time for planting 
again. If canker attack them, slight injury may be cut 
out, and rubbed with powdered chalk ; but if the canker 
be extensive, the roots aft'ected had better at once be 
tlirown away. Before replanting, the soil of the bed 
should be partially renewed. The ofi*sets may be planted 
out for a year, when they too will be good roots. 

The single flowers will produce seed, which, in ripen- 
ing, will sacrifice the parent root. If it be wished to 
obtain new kinds, sow the seed as soon as it is ripe ; 
1 the seedlings will come up the following spring, and, if 
I well cared for, will flower in from three to five years. 
To flower hyacinths in water, dark-coloured glasses 
and rain-water are best. Place the roots for a few days 



80 ELOWEES AKD THE ELOWEE GAEDEN. 



in damp sand, put them in the glasses in December, 
let the water only just touch the bottom of the root, 
and put the glasses away in a dark cupboard until the 
rootlets are an inch long. "When the plants grow, put 
two drops of hartshorn in the water ; a piece of char- 
coal in each glass, too, will do good. When the water 
gets thick, and wants renewing, pour it out very gently, 
without disturbing the root, which should be carefully 
held in its place the while. If, in spite of care, a long 
root gets broken, raise the bulb and cut it off close to the 
root with a sharp knife. "When the bulb is growing the 
water should not quite reach it. Eoots will flower only 
once in glasses, but they often do in the beds after- 
wards. 

For growing hyacinths in pots appropriate pots are 
made, much deeper than those in general use. Plant 
the roots in October in compost like that for the bed, 
pressing it very firm under the bulb, and leaving the 
crown above ground ; plunge them at least two inches 
over head in tan or ashes, and as they are wanted for 
flow^er bring them into heat. If some are forced from a 
month after plunging they will be ready for Christmas. 

Pansies require a tolerably light soil, made very rich. 
The best is light loam and decayed turf from pasture land 
thoroughly mixed, and one-third from a two years old 
cucumber bed. Manure water, especially guano water, 
may be applied while the plants are in flower. The 
pansy bed should be in a spot sheltered from all cutting 
wind, yet open and airy. It should have the morning, 
and be sheltered from the mid-day sun, and the bed 
should be well drained, so as never to get sodden. 

To obtain fine bloom for ornament or exhibition in 
May or June, plants from cuttings struck the autumn 
before will do best, and for blooming in autumn those 
struck in the spring of the same year. When these 
plants have bloomed, keep them for making cuttings, as 
the young plants always produce the finest flowers. 

Cuttings may be made in August, September, April, 
and May, and the young side shoots are best for the 
purpose. Plant them in light earth, mixed with silver 



FLOEISTS FLOTTEES : PALSIES, PELAEGO^irMS. 81 

sand, place them in a cool frame, or under hand glasses, 

keep them moderately moist, and shade off the hot sun! 

Thev may also be propagated by division of the root, 
\ and by layers, merely pegged down, not slit, on account 
I of their tendency to damp off. New sorts may be 
I raised from seed, which must be sown as soon as it is 
ji ripe, in a bed, where the young plants may remain until 

they give themselves a characier, good or bad, by 

flowering. 

Pansies are rather apt to die off suddenly, without 

I apparent reason, perhaps sometimes from too stimulating 
j manures. If any especially good or rare plant begin 
(| to wither in the leaves, take cuttings at once, for it will 
'! most likely die. As a preventive, lightly fork and rake 

the beds between the plants. 

A fine pansy should be large and round, the petals 

I I fitting exactly to each other to give this circular form, 
colour fine and distinct, and eye distinctly marked. ' 

The boxes in which to exhibit the flowers have zinc 
, plates, on which the petals lie flat, with tubes for water 
: fixed below for the stalks. Each hole for the stalk is 
: long in shape, so that it takes in the calyx, and so fixes 
the flower down flat. 

Pelargoniums, our dear old friends, formerly called 
Geraniums, are favourites with all on account of the gay 
beauty of their flowers, and the facility with which they 
can be kept, propagated, and grown, with no appliances 
1 whatever except some place in which they may be pre- 
served from frost. Wherever they are kept they should 
I have a free circulation of air around them ; if they can 
i{ have light on all sides they will grow all the better for 
|i it, and the plants should be so placed that they can grow 
Ij quite free of each other. To make excellent soil for 
I potting geraniums get turf cut thick from an old pas- 
j ture, where the grass is fine ; chop it up and lay it in a 
!| ridge, facing east and west, so that it may get the sun 
on both sides in the course of the day. Let it be 
turned over every three months for a year, and then it 
I will be fit for use. If it then be found to be too heaey 
ii and close in quality, add sand. 

Or 



82 TLOWEES AlsB THE TLOVrER GAEDEN. 

The points of a fine geranium are, first, the form of 
the flower ; then substance, then size, and last colour. 
Habit of growth and size of truss of flowers are also 
to be considered. Kever save seed from anv but first- 
rate flowers, and in crossing let the plant which is to 
bear the seed possess the quality of good form in the 
flower. Take the pollen from plants having properties 
wanted, having previously cut ofi* the anthers from the 
flowers to be inoculated, and as soon as the flower is set 
cover it with a bobbin-net bag to keep it safe. Gather 
the seed as soon as it is ripe, keep it in a dry place, and 
sow it early in March, in light rich earth. Place the 
pots in a hot-bed, and when the seedlings are growing, 
remove them to a shelf in the greenhouse, near the glass. 
"With these and all seeds be careful not to sow too 
thickly ; if they come up very far apart, the seedlings 
will be all the finer ; but if they come too thick, the 
young plants will lose much in fineness. "When the 
seedlings have made their second leaves pot them singly, 
in two-inch pots, in good compost, and put them back 
on the shelf, but shade ofi" hot sunshine. As soon as 
they fill the pots with roots re-pot them, keep them 
near the glass, and give them plenty of air. When the 
weather is settled fine and warm, put them out of doors, 
on a bed of ashes, in an open situation, to ripen the 
wood, and induce a bushy habit. In the autumn, when 
there may be frost, take them in. Do not top them, 
but let them grow and flower as soon as they will, as a 
test of worth. I have found it answer to sow the seed 
as soon as ripe, and prick out the seedlings when large 
enough, and those which live through the winter will 
flower the next year, and thus save time. 

Cuttings may be put in from March to August, but 
the usual time for getting an abundant stock of them is 
when the plants are cut down, after they have done 
flowering, to induce them to make bushy plants for the 
next year. This is generally from the end of June to 
the end of autumn. They will strike readily anywhere, 
in the good earth in which the parent plants grow ; the 
earth in which they are grown should not be pressed 



TLORISTS' TLOWEES : PELAEGO^TIUMS. 



83 



too tight, and it should neither be very vret nor very dry. 
Side shoots that have not flowered make the best cut- 
tings. Trim the cuttings, as cuttings usually are 
trimmed, by cutting off the lower leaves, and leaving 
two or three at the top intact ; but afterwards place 
them in a dry place in the shade to dry the cut ends for 
an hour or two before they are put in. Plunge the 
p^ots in the frame, or place them where they are to 
stand, so that the cuttings will not touch each other, 
and shade them from the sun^ "When roots are formed, 
pot them separately ; and as they grow, stop the top 
shoot, and afterwards the side shoots, to make them 
grow bushy. The kinds which are very difficult to 
strike with cuttings may be increased by division of the 
roots. Shake the mould from the root of an old plant, 
cut the root into pieces, and plant each piece in as small 
a pot as it can be got into, leaving the top visible. 
Shade until they shoot upwards and downwards, and 
then give more light. The shoots will come in bunches ; 
as they grow, strip them off one at a time until only one 
remains, which is to be left to become the future plant. 
When it is three inches, stop it to make it shoot at the 
sides. 

Cut down old plants in July ; place them in a cold 
pit, and water moderately rather over the tops than to 
the routs. Then give a fair watering, so lliat every good 
root may get a share. "When the buds break, give air 
gradually, and when the shoots are an inch long shake 
the mould from the roots, prune the roots a little, and 
shift the plants into pots of the same size again, or 
rather smaller ; return them to the cold pit, and keep 
them close until the roots are growing. Then give air 
gradually, and get them out of doors, but keep them 
from cold, rain, and any approach to frost. Those cut 
down in June and July may be got into blooming pots at 
the end of October, and those cut down in the end of July 
or in August will not want re-potting into the larger 
pots until the spring, thus giving succession of bloom. 

"Winter requirements are cleanliness, air, light, plenty 
, of room, and a temperature seldom below 45 degrees ; in 



84 PLOWEES A]S"D THE ELOWEE GAEDEN. 

winter it should not be higher. "With large plants 
little stopping will be required after re-potting, but 
thinning will sometimes be needed, so that the old 
plants will bloom earliest, as stopping and re-potting 
delay the flowering period. 



CHAPTEE XII. 
ELOBiSTs' ELOWEES {concluded). 

PETUKIAS, PHLOXES, AUEICULAS, ETC. ; EAKTNCULTJSES, 
TULIPS, K-JsJ) YEBBEKAS. 

Petu:nias, besides being cultivated as florists' flowers, 
are useful, from rapid growth and freedom in flowering, 
either for plants in pots or for bedding. They may be 
raised from seed, sown on a hot-bed in March, and planted 
out in May ; or the seed may be sown out of doors as 
soon as it is ripe, and protected with a little litter in 
cold weather. It may also be sown out of doors in the 
spring, when all chance of frost is past. When grown 
out of doors they must have a warm sheltered situation. 
Petunias wih grow from cuttings of the ends of shoots, 
or side shoots. In the spring they require a little heat, 
but in summer and autumn they will strike without. 
The plants must be kept in-doors, protected, or put in a 
cold pit in winter, as they will not stand frost. A light 
rich sandy loam is the soil they like. 

"When they are cultivated in pots they must have 
plenty of room for the roots. When fine large plants 
are wanted, begin with them in small pots, shift them 
into larger and larger by degrees, and stop the tops and 
shoots until the plants are large and handsome in shape ; 
then allow them to flower. 

When petunias are wanted to cover a bea, do not stop 
them, but peg down all their long shoots, and the side 
shoots will put out freely, and make a good show of 



TLOEISTS FLOWEES : PHLOXES AIS'D PKIMULAS. 85 



bloom. The white petunia and its hybrids have the 
flowers scented. 

The Phloxes are gay useful plants, of various heights, 
flowering almost incessantly. They are all perennials, 
except P. Drummondi^ an annual which is very pretty 
either for the flower beds or for growing in pots. Its 
seed must be sown in April, in gentle heat, and the plants 
may be planted out of doors in May. Many of the phloxes 
are good as bedding plants. Seed may be grown out of 
doors in April or May. When seed does not ripen, cut- 
tings may be struck in August, and kept through the 
winter. 

Many of the recently grown phloxes are very beau- 
tiful, and these gay flowers have the merit of blooming 
very freely, the different kinds in continuous succession 
almost through the year. They are increased by division 
of the root, and by cuttings taken in summer, and struck 
under a hand glass, in a shady spot. Sandy loam and leaf^ 
mould is the soil. 

jB.])ilosa amoena, with pink flowers, P. nivalis, with 

, white flowers, P. setacea, with flesh-coloured flowers, 
and P. siihulata, with dark purple flowers, are quite dwarf 
in their habit ; and to them may be added JP.procumlens, 
with flesh-coloured flowers, and P. reptans, with blue 
and purple ; and from these there are all heights, up to 
five and six feet, and all colours — purple of all shades, 
pink, rose, red, blue of different tints, lilac, white, and 
flesh-coloured. "Whether it be to cultivate them as 

I choice flowers, or to ornament the garden, no lover of 
flowers should be without a nice collection of the supe- 

i rior kinds of phloxes. 

I* The Frimula, or Primrose kind, yields three favourite 
florists' flowers — the auricula, the polyanthus, and the 
primrose. Auriculas must have a rich soil, and wbat- 
! ever manure is used to make it so should be so 
I , thoroughly rotted before it is applied as to be in fine 
: , powdery mould : such manure may be mixed in equal 
parts with good light garden earth, and if for pot cul- 
ture add about a sixth of coarse sand. As florists' 
flowers, auriculas are grown and bloomed in pots. 



86 ELOWEES AIS'D THE ELOWEE GAEDEIS". 



The almost innumerable named sorts are divided into 
five classes — green edged, grey edged, white edged, 
selfs (i.e. those of one colour), and alpines; the last 
have the edge of the petal shaded by a mixture of two 
colours, not separated into distinct bands of colour as 
in the edged ones, and they are yellow in the paste, 
whereas the others are white. There are technical 
terms used by auricula fanciers : the group of stamens 
in the tiihe is called the fJirim ; the part next the tube, 
which is yellow in the alpines, and white in the rest, 
is the 2^^ste or ei/e ; the next colour on the petal, and 
the distinctive colour, is the ground colour ; the outer 
colour or border is the edge. As in all flowers of this 
kind, a single flower is called a 'pi-p., and the whole group 
on the stem the truss, ^in-eyed is when the style is 
higher than the anthers — an unpardonable fault in an 
auricula. A fine auricula should be large and circular, 
and the petals should be equal, firm, fieshy, smooth at , 
the edges, and quite flat. The centre or tube should i 
not be more than a fourth of the diameter of the flower, 
quite round, well filled with the thrum, and with the 
edge standing a little above the eye. The paste or eye 
should be circular, smooth, and of a dense pure white, 
without crack or blemish, forming a band not less than 
half the width of the tube. The ground colour should 
be dense, unbroken, and forming a perfect circle. The 
brighter, darker, or richer the colonic the better the 
flower. The edge should be clear unchangeable green, 
grey, or white, about the same width as the ground 
colour. The more exactly the flower is divided into 
four in the breadth of its circles the better — the tube, 
the eye, the ground colour, and the edge. The ground 
colour may be a little wider ; and the edge may feather 
into it a little. The colour should not be changeable. 
The stem should be strong, firm^ round, and upright, 
from four to seven inches long, and the flowers of the 
truss should all bloom out at once, forming then a com- 
pact semi-globular truss of five or seven flowers, of 
equal size, perfect form, and standing out distinct and 
apart. It looks well if some of the leaves grow up 



i 



FLOEISTS' TLOTVEES : ArEICULAS. 



87 



well with the bloom, and the foliage should be healthy 
and abundant. 

Kew sorts are obtained from seed. Inoculate as in 

I the geranium, and when the seed is ripe, gathered, and 
dried on paper, sow it in September, or keep it in the 
seed-vessel and sow it in the spring. Eaise the seedlings 

j| in light earth, keep them weeded, and when they are 

i a nice size, plant them out in a box or border, eight 
inches apart. They will flower in the spring, when 
good ones should be potted singly. The usual mode of 
propagation is by slips divided from the sides of the 
root, which generally have roots of their own : they 
should be taken when the bloom is gone off, and planted 

jj singly in pots. 

! The plants should be re-potted when the flower is 
quite gone off, which will be by the end of June. Take 
off the suckers that have roots, shake the earth from 
the old roots, trim the roots a little, replant them, 
draining the pots with crocks, and place them on a 
layer of ashes, in a place having an eastern aspect, that 
' they may get the morning sun only. Water in fine 
weather, and keep them free at all times from slugs, 
worms, and the green fly. When the weather gets hot 
remove them to a north border, and shelter them from 
heavy rain, and by winter place them in a frame, six 
inches only from the glass. They will require good venti- 
lation, and in fine weather plenty of air, but very little 
watering, and that given on fine sunny mornings. Stir 
the earth in the pots often, and constantly clear away 
slugs and wood-lice. By the end of February top 
dress the pots with mould and manure, with a little sand 
dried. In a month more the bloom will show; then 
keep them rather warmer, with protection of mats, &c., 
: at night, but still give air freely in very fine days, and 
I water plentifully, but without wetting the leaves. "When 
I they are in flower they must be shaded from rain and 
I sun, and the beautiful bloom on the leaves and on some 
of the flowers must on no account be disturbed. 

Auriculas are subject to canker. The only thing to 
do is to take up the plant directly a yellow unhealthy 



88 



TLOWEES A^D THE TLOWEE GABDEX. 



appearance shows itself in the leaves, cut away the 
affected part of the root, fresh pot it, and remove it to 
a cool shaded place. 

The Polyanthus is cultivated much like the auricula, 
but it is a hardier and stronger plant, and only very 
choice kinds are grown in pots. A fine flower should 
be flat, round, a little scalloped at the edge, and three- 
quarters of an inch across. It should be divided in five 
or six places as if into petals, each division cleft in the 
centre, so as to give it a heart shape, and the indenta- 
tions not reaching to the yellow edge. The edge must 
be the same colour as the eye ; the ground colour must 
be clear and well defined. The tube, the eye, and the 
ground colour should all be of the same width. 

The seedlings vary so much that raising them is very 
interesting. Sow the seed as soon as it is ripe in July, 
in a shady border or in pots, very slightly covered. 
Seed sown as soon as it is ripe will produce plants 
which may flower at the end of a year, but which will 
be sure to do so the following spring twelvemonth. 
Treat the young plants like auricula seedlings. The 
polyanthus is, I believe, a sport from the primrose. 

Primroses, delicate and pretty as they are, have an 
additional value from coming out so early, when flowers 
are scarce. There are double kinds, in different colours, 
for the garden, but none can rival the chaste beauty of 
the sweet wild flower, which has a merit that few wild 
flowers have ; we can transplant it from its native wilds, 
and it will grow and bloom, and still delight us as it 
does when it peeps out with modest beauty in the wild 
woods. The pretty Chinese primrose is a greenhouse 
plant, of which there are varieties with flowers of 
different shades of lilac, white, and pink: there are some, 
too, double, as well as the fringed Chinese primrose, all 
valuable from flowerinoj throuo-h the winter. Thev are 
biennials. Xew plants should be made every year, by 
cuttings struck in sand, on heat, under a bell glass, or 
by seed. The pots in which they are grown should be 
well drained with crocks, and they should be grown in 
very rich earth, mixed with a little sand. 



FLOEISTS' TLOWEES *. EAKrKCTJLUSES. S9 

The choice Eanunculuses have tuberous roots, and are 
too tender to bear our climate out of doors, without some 
protection. They require a loamy soil, made rich with 
manure thoroughly rotted, and leaf-mould. It should feel 
soft to the hand, and have a very little sand added to it. 
For making a ranunculus bed, dig out the earth to the 
depth of about a foot, lay in a layer two inches thick of 
rotten cow-manure, and fill in with the compost until 
the bed is two or three inches above the surface. The 
j bed had better be made in January, so that it may 
I' mellow and settle by the time for planting the roots — 
towards the end of February. The earth should at the 
time be just so moist that if a handful be squeezed and 
let fall it will go in pieces. Eake the surface fine, 
and plant the roots, two inches deep, and five inches 
apart. Choose a fine day for planting, and sprinkle a 
little sand in the drills made for the roots before 
planting them. When the roots are placed and partly 
covered, fill in just over the crowns with sand. When 
the plants begin to grow, press the earth firmly about 
j,' them, and the bed must be protected from frost and 
heavy rain : the best protection is some waterproof 
covering over hoops. During April and May a little 
watering may be necessary, and a little tan or moss 
spread between the rows to keep the soil sufficiently 
moist. When the flowers come they must be protected 
from sun and rain by an awning, and the roots will 
then want watering every second or third evening. July 
is the flowering season. In a wet season the roots 
should be taken up when they turn yellow, but in a dry 
j one they may remain in the earth until the leaves are 
!* brown. Take them up as dry as can be, and let them 
dry ofl* quite in a warm place, not in the sun, when they 
may be put by. 

iscw sorts may easily be raised from seed. Save 
from none but flowers which are good in form and 
j colour. Sow in boxes, in February, about the eighth of 
an inch apart ; cover the seed thinly, water with a fijie 
rose, and keep the boxes in-doors, but without heat. 
. I Let them have air, but protect them from frost. When 
I 
I 



90 



TLOWEES ASD THE TLOWER GAEDEiS". 



tbe young plants are grown, sink tlie boxes in the open 
ground, and water tliem until the leaves wither, which 
will be about July, and after that take up the roots, 
keep them in bags until February, plant them then, and 
they will flower the June after. The general mode of 
propagation is separating the offsets from the larger 
roots. 

For getting the ranunculus to flower in winter, keep 
back some tubers from planting, plant them in pots the 
beginning of August, and force them a little before they 
are wanted. 

These are pretty showy flowers for the garden, and 
there are several common kinds often grown in gar- 
dens : the white and yellow bachelor's button, globe 
ranunculus, and several others. 

The cultivation of the Tulip, now almost out of 
fashion, was once a mania, and in truth a tulip bed in 
full flower is a gorgeous sight. The best situation is a 
spot which is open to the south and south-east, and well 
sheltered from north, north-east, and north-west winds. 
The tulip bed must be well drained ; where there is 
depth of good loam, on a dry gravelly or sandy subsoil, 
very little draining will be required. "When, however, 
for want of good drainino; subsoil, the bed has to be 
made, dig out to the depth of 18 inches ; below this lay 
draining tiles along the middle of the bed. Cover them 
and the bottom of the bed to the depth of three or four 
inches with rubble, small stones, clinkers, and such like. 
Place over this a layer of straw or brushwood, a layer 
two inches thick of well rotted cow-manure, and then 
fill in partly with the earth, which should be good loam, 
mixed with a sixth part of thoroughly decomposed hot-bed 
manure, and fill up quite with the same mixed with 
about a third of river sand. The bed should be flat ; and 
if the locality be unfavourably damp, it had better be 
some inches above the surrounding surface, the edges 
well supported with slate or board edging. September 
is a good time for making the bed. Tulip fanciers con- 
sider the besb time for planting the bulbs to be as near 
as possible to the 10th of November, but the best rule 



rLOEISTS' PLOTTEES ; TULIPS. 



is to plant them at such time, according to the locality, 
that they ^vill not push through until the severe weather 
is past. They should be so planted that the tallest 
stems shall be in the middle of the bed, and the shortest 
at the edge, descending in gradual gradation. Make 
1 perfectly straight drills two inches deep, and press the 
j roots down in them, five inches apart. Let the drills be 
nine inches apart. Cover the bulbs with a rake, and 
stir the earth between with a tulip fork — a small three- 
pronged fork, with a short handle, almost indispensable 
in tulip culture, and, in fact, in the flower beds generally. 
Protection must be provided, either hoops over the beds 
with canvas covers to -put over them when wanted, or 
regular awnings with the covers to put up or down. 
This protection forms necessary shelter from late frost 
to the roots, from cutting winds at all stages, from too 
much or too heavy rain, and from the sun when the 
bloom is out. It must, however, be used with caution, 
not to make the plants too tender. After flowering, the 
bulbs should be left until the leaves turn brown, when 
they may be taken up, laid out to dry, cleaned, and 
then stored in drawers, with labels to distinguish all the 
named sorts. The tulip bed must be renewed in the 
soil before it is used for tulips again, although it is said to 
do without for polyanthus, and many other flower roots. 

A fine tulip should have a cup-shaped flower, round 
at the base ; the ground colour must be quite clear on 
the inner side of the petals, and all the marking should 
be sharp and distinct. Kfeatliered tulip has a dark edge 
to the petals ; the feathering is called liglit if narrow, 
and lieavy if wide, blamed tulips are those having a 
dark spot in the centre of each petal : some flowers are 
both feathered and flamed. A lizarre tulip has a yellow 
ground, with coloured markings ; a lihJomen, a white 
ground, with black, lilac, or purple markings ; and a 
rose, a white ground, with markings of crimson, pink, 
or scarlet. There are also selfs. 

New sorts are raised from seed, and the seedlings do 
not flower until they are about five years old, when 
they produce flowers of a dull indistinct purple tinge. 



92 FLOWEES AND THE TLOWEE GAEDEK. 

Afterwards they are called hreeders, and go on producing 
these dull flowers four years more, when they break, i,e, 
show distinct marking or colour. To bring them to 
break sooner it has sometimes been recommended to 
starve them in poor soil, with little water, and then to 
remove them suddenly to rich soil, with plenty of 
moisture, or to send them to a new locality and air. 

As common garden flowers, tulips need only a top 
dressing every year. 

The Verbena has been increased to all shades and all 
varieties of colour as a florists' flower, and it is also one 
of the best bedding plants we have, from its creeping 
habit of growth, and the readiness with which, when 
pegged down, it will cover the earth and root itself all 
over it. Verbenas will root freely as layers, strike as 
cuttings, and thrive in the open air through the summer ; 
but frost cuts them ofl*. It is, therefore, necessary to 
make young plants in autumn, and keep them indoors 
until the frost is gone, when they may be planted out. 
A rich sandy loam suits them. 

A small piece as a cutting is said to form a better 
plant than a large one, and points of the shoots will 
strike in spring, in a little peat, or in silver sand. "We 
have often struck plants of this and many other kinds, 
for making the garden gay, in a saucer of silver sand on 
the mantelpiece of any room in constant use as a sitting 
room. The seed may be sown in a shght hot-bed in 
March, or in the open air in May. 

The Verbena melindres, a fine scarlet, was one of the 
earliest we had, and some that have been bred from it 
are of a more intense scarlet, and hardier — V. melindres, 
latifolia, and splendens. The verbenas are rich in nume- 
rous splendid scarlets, crimsons, purples, violets, and 
lilacs of every shade ; those of a deep rose colour, and 
also the white, are most useful as bedding plants. Some 
of them — V. JS^eillii, V. teucrioides, and others — are 
sweet-scented. 

The plants which go under the general name of " the 
American plants " have a department given up to them 
in extensive establishments, for they all require about 



TLOEISTS' TLOWERS : AMERICAN PLA:N'TS. 93 



the same treatment. They must have a well drained 
peaty soil, do well on a sloping bank facing north or 
east, and require plenty of water. The Ehododendrons, 
Azaleas, and Andromedas will thrive if overshadowed by 
trees. The best annual dressing for them is decayed 
leaves and the bottom of an old wood-stack, or any 
mixture of earth and old woody fibre. Spent tan or 
sawdust is good for them, or any refuse of the same 
character. In making compost for them use two- thirds 
vegetable matter, with one-third of ordinary light soil 
and sand. A covering of moss is beneficial to them. 
The American plants are Azaleas, ilhododendrons, 
Heaths, Kalmias, Andromedas, Ledums, and Vacciniums ; 
the first two of which are florists' flowers. 

The American Azaleas are propagated by layers, laid 
in March : cover tlie layers with moss to retain mois- 
II ture, and leave them on the parent plant until after 
! the second year's growth. The Indian or Chinese 
azaleas may be propagated by cuttings of young tops 
I three inches long, trimmed only in the lower leaves, and 
i| stuck in pots of silver sand, over peat. "When they are 
•j planted, water them gently, cover them close, place 
them in a temperature of 55° to 60°, and keep them 
shaded from the sun. When they are rooted put them 
in a greenhouse, take oS the bell glass every night, and 
put it on in the day. Pot off singly, keep them in a 
close frame until the roots are growing well, and then 
harden them ofl? to bear sun and air, and, by re-potting 
from time to time, get them to a large size. Azaleas 
may be grafted in early spring, on stocks of Azalea Indica 
alba and A. Flioenicea, both easy to strike. Varieties 
may be raised from seed taken from the best shaped 
I flowers and those of the best colours crossed with each 
other. Sow the seed in February, in gentle heat, and 
when the little plants have three or four leaves prick 
them out far apart in pans fresh filled with sandy peat. 
The following spring they may be potted out singly. 
Azaleas will not bear frost. Keep them for the winter 
just safe from frost, and water sparingly. When they 
|i begin to show for bloom give more heat and a liberal 



94i PLOWEKS Al^D THE ELOWEE GAEDE2S-. 

supply of water. After the flower is off, keep them in 
a temperature of 55° to 60"^, and syringe them freely. 
Train the trees to a good shape by judicious stopping ; 
when they have made their growth, give them plenty of 
air for a few weeks, and then set them under a low 
north wall until autumn. The hardy azaleas will live 
out of doors, in a peat border, with a little protection 
from frost. These and all the American plants should- 
be watered with soft water. 

Most of the Ehododendrons are hardy, but a few of 
them require a little protection to bring them to their 
beauty. They grow in sandy peat, kept rather moist, 
and are propagated by layers, either in spring or 
autumn. Cuttings may likewise be taken when the 
base of the . shoot by the older wood is getting firm. 
The Bhodora Canadensis, a native of Canada, is a pretty 
plant, with flowers like small rhododendrons, requiring 
similar culture. It flowers in the open ground in April, 
but it may be forced, under glass, with a little heat, to 
flower quite early. 

The Vacciniums are the "Wortlebury family, one of 
which, a Thibaudia, was shown at a recent horticultural 
meeting, of which Dr. Poeppig, a well-known traveller, 
had stated that the young shoots were so brilliant in 
colour that they were seen a league and a half off. 

There are others which might be included amongst 
florists' flowers, but those which I have taken, and 
roses, include all which can be cultivated by amateurs, 
without more costly appliances than fall to the lot of 
many. 



CHAPTEE XIIL 

BEDDING PLANTS. 

The kind of flower garden most in favour at the pre- 
sent time is the set flower garden, laid out in beds of 
various forms, each bed filled and made gay with roots 



EEDDIXG PLANTS. 



95 



of one jflower, or else with roots of one flower completely 
to cover the centre, and with bands of another flower, 
handsome either in bloom or in foliage, to smTound it. 
When all the beds can be made gay with bloom and 
healthy foliage at the same time, it is very efl'ective, 
though stiff and unlike the gaiety that nature shows us. 
With it, to get the beds all in prime blooming condition 
at one time, and to keep them so, is an imperative 
necessity for the beauty of the garden. Constant atten- 
tion must therefore be bestowed on it : such attention 
as ladies, with leisure at command, can so well give. 
In addition to not allowing a weed with a dozen leaves 
to hold its unwelcome place, all the flowers as they 
wither should be cut off ; to keep the plants long in 
bloom, all shoots inclined to get too rampant in growth 
should be stopped, those too backward in growth 
encouraged with a little liquid manure, and nothing be 
allowed to run a hair's breadth out of order. In 
planting this kind of flower garden it should be made a 
, study to select flowers which will be in beauty at the 
same time, and, as far as can be managed, such as will 
remain in beauty for about equal duration. 

The ribbon bordei's are on the same principle of 
massing the colours, the flowers being arranged in close 
bushy rows, each row contrasting with its neighbours in 
colour of flower and foliage. 

In the plans given an effort is made to shape the beds 
so as to avoid very sharp angles, narrow strips, and all 
shapes which it would be very difficult to maintain, and 
in which it Avould be impossible to keep the flowers 
from straying over the edge. 

Among the florists' flowers already spoken of are 
many capital bedding plants. The common yellow 
Calceolaiia gives a capital mass of bright yellow. Take 
cuttings in autumn, keep them in-doors through the 
winter, harden them gradually, and plant them out in 
I IMay, in a rich light soil. Fuchsias of free growth make 
recherche beds, with the tallest plants in the centre, 
descending gradually to quite low plants round the 
edge of the bed. 



96 



FLOWEES AKD THE FLOWEE GAEDEK. 



All the florists' flowers that are usually planted in 
this way make beautiful beds, such as anemones, ranun- 
culuses, hyacinths, pansies, tulips, and others. The 




Diagram No. 1 

A. Pampas grass, pale lavender Phlox round. 

B. Broad-leaved Myrtle and scarlet Salvia mixed, 
c. Broad-leaved Myrtle and blue Salvia mixed. 

D. Purple Petunia. 

E. White Foxglove, scarlet Geranium round. 



BEDDII^a PLAINTS. 



97 



verbenas are first-rate bedding plants, and ofter valuable 
masses of flower in all shades of crimson, rose, scarlet, 
purple, violet, and mauve, besides a good white. Purple 
king verbena is in constant requisition. Verbenas flower 
in the summer, and keep gay a long ^Yhile. Petunias are 
especially good as bedding plants, because the flowers 
are large and conspicuous, and full and varied in colour, 
showing a good mass of bloom at one time. They 
bloom from June onwards, and keep in flow^er for 
months. All plants of a creeping habit, which throw 
out abundant masses of showy bloom, are good for bed- 
ding, and all upstanding flow^ers used for forming beds 
should be of low bushy growth, and such as flower so 
abundantly as to show the w^hole plant a mass of bloom 
when the flower comes out. 

The pegging down, so useful in getting a bed covered 
with foliage and flower, is done with twigs cut just below 
where there is a fork. Cut one side of the fork short, 
and leave the other a few inches long : the long side is 
pushed into the earth, and the shorter bit fixes the stem 
to be pegged down. 

The plants with foliage of peculiar colour form an 
important feature in gardens of this kind, and have the 
merit of filling a void in maintaining a pretty general 
appearance at any time that accidental disarrangement 
may happen to those the beauty of which depends on 
the flow^er. Among plants of beautifully varied silvery 
foliage we have the variegated coltsfoot and Cineraria 
rnaritima before mentioned. Cerastium Biehersteini and 
Cerastium tomentosum have a low habit of growth, and 
white flowers. They are easily propagated by division 
of the root in spriug, and w^ill grow in any light mode- 
rately rich soil. For taller silvery foliaged plants we have 
the Salvia argentea, three feet high, bearing yellow flowers 
in June; the Stachys lanata, two feet high ; the Arctotis 
grandiflora argeiitea, about the same height, and requir- 
ing a mild sheltered situation, and a place in-doors for 
winter ; the Agathcea ccdestis variegata, the same height, 
and also delicate, with beautiful blue flowers; the 
Centaiirea argentea, Centaurea candidissima, and Cen- 

H 



98 FLOWEES AKD THE PLOWEE GAEDSK. 

taurea gymnocarpa. The Alyssum variegatiim makes a 
nice showy silvery edge to a bed, as does also the 
variegated mint. 

There is a peculiar beauty and distinctness in the dark 
foliaged plants, on account of which their value in 
assisting the variety of bedding plants should not be 
overlooked. The Perilla Nankinensis makes a capital 
mixture in a bed of bright- coloured flowers : threepenny 
packets of the seed can be bought, and reared without 
difficulty. The Oxalis tropcBoloides is a charming half- 
hardy annual from the Cape of Good Hope, growing 
close to the ground, and with fine dark bronze foliage. 
A plant recently introduced, the Iresine herhsti, will also 
make a splendid bedding plant. The foliage is beautifully 
ornamental — dark crimson leaves, with ribs and stems 
of carmine. It is readily propagated, and only requires 
to be housed in a cool greenhouse for the winter. Of 
all the dark foliage plants, perhaps none are more 
beautiful or easy of culture than the Atripleop hortensis 
rubra, or garden orach, with its beautiful crimson foliage. 
A packet of seed may be bought for a few pence, and 
the plants are reared without difficulty. 

No less handsome and valuable for beauty of foliage 
are the ti'icoloured horseshoe geraniums Mrs. Pollock 
and Sunset, every leaf of which is a gay mixture of 
green, bright bronze, red, crimson, and golden yellow. 
Sunset has a compact dwarf bushy growth. The 
variegated geraniums, with white and golden yellow 
margins to the leaves, are showy and gay-looking. 

The best and freest blooming scarlet, pink, salmon, 
and white geraniums, are most useful for bedding. 

The Lobelias are general favourites, from their thick 
low growth, and the abundance and intense colour of 
the bloom. They are especially good for outer rims to 
beds of geraniums and other full ^varm-coloured fiowers. j 
In the general flower garden they look pretty in clumps, ' 
and will also grow on rockwork; and they have the 
great merit of remaining all the sum.mer months in 
bloom. Lobelia speciosa is the finest, from the intense- 
ness of its blue, with a clear white spot, and the deep 



1 



EEDDI^^G PLANTS. 



99 



green of its foliage. Lobelia gracilis, in its several 
varieties, is best for rockwork, pots, or hanging baskets. 
They require a light rich soil. Plants raised from seed 
in autumn, and kept indoors for the winter, will be ready 
for planting out when frost is over in the spring. The 
seed is so minute that it must be very slightly covered 
with earth. 

The Nasturtiums, with then peculiarly elegant, 
curious, and brilliant coloured abundant flowers, have 
most deservedly grown into great favour. Allowed to 
run on the ground, if of the tall kinds, and planted over 
the beds if dwarfs, they are good bedding plants. Sow 
the seed under glass in April, protect the young plants 
from frost, and plant them out when the frosts are over. 
Tropceolwn lohhianum elegans, the Crystal Palace nas- 
turtium, is of a good habit of growth for bedding. The 
double-flowered kinds are curious and pretty. All plants 
of the family delight in light rich earth, and flower from 
early in summer till frost interferes with their gay beauty. 

The Cuphea is admired as a bedding plant, remaining 
in flower for several months. The Cuphea eminens is 
especially good for the purpose, from its graceful 
branching habit and immense number of long tubular 
scarlet, and yellow flowers. The Cuphea platy centra, 
the flowers of which are a mixture of scarlet, w4iite, and 
purple, is also a good plant for beds. The seed should 
be sown in a hot-bed in the spring, and the young plants 
hardened off by the end of May. They will do for planting 
out the same season. They may also be grown from cut- 
tings taken in the spring. They require a dry rich soil. 

The Ageratum, of which there are many varieties, 
keeps many months in bloom, and the greyish blue of 
its flowers contrasts very well with the more brilliant 
hues of many others. They are annuals, and grow well 
in any good garden soil. Cuttings may be taken in 
autumn, and kept indoors through the winter, but it is 
better to grow the plants from seed, which should be 
sown on a hot-bed in February, pricked out, and planted 
out in the beds in May. They begin to flower in June 
or July, and flower for a long time. 

H 2 



100 



JLOTTEES A^'D THE PLOTTEK GAEDEN. 



The Gazanea elegans. with its leaves of deep shining 
green above, and cottony vhite beneath, and profusion 
of large brilliant orange jiowers, with yellow and dark 
chocolate centre, studded with clear white, like pearls, 
has but one fault — it shuts up close v\'henever the sun is 
not shining on it. It grows quite close to the ground, 
keeps long in llower, and will grow in any good garden 
soil. It is propagated by cuttings, which may be taken 
at the sides of the plant in August, more sparingly in 
the spring, and raised under a hand glass, in sandy soil. 
From its low growth and brilliant tlowers, it would make 
a gorgeous border for a centre of more sober colour. 
The Gazauta spJendens is, I believe, newer. 

The Heliotrope, from its delicious fragrance, and the 
sweet unobtrusive grey of its pretty flowers, should find 
a place iu every liower garden, and the plants may be 
kept to the desired form by pegging down. It looks 
nice when contrasted with gayer colours. It grows in a 
rich light soil, and the plants must be housed in winter, 
and may be planted out in ^lay. Those with the very 
dark flowers are handsome, It is increased by cuttiugs 
struck with a little heat in spring, or under a hand glass 
in autumn. 

The Salvias are quire lirst-rate, rather tall bedding 
plants. Either Salvia sjjJt'udens, or Salvia patens^ 
mingled with the rich green of the broad-leaved mp'tle, 
forms beds something very near perfection. Salvia splen- 
dens has line large scarlet flowers. Salvia patens is 
the brightest and purest of all blue-flowered plants. 
Salvia spit/idens compacta is said to be the flnest salvia 
grown, and is literally covered with bloom, and grows 
only a foot and a half high : and Salvia coccinea is an- 
other universal favotirite, also bearing scarlet flowers. 
The salvias want a light, very rich soil, and are propa- 
gated by cuttings inserted firmly in the ground in autumn 
or spring. They bloom in summer, and keep in beauty 
a long time. 

African and French Maiigolds, Tagetes erecta and T. 
patula^ also T, lucida and T. pumila, are all briedit 
coloured, and useful for beds where plants of their 



BEDDING PLA^s'TS. 



101 



colour and growth happen to be wanted. Seed should 
be sown in a hot-bed in April, and planted out in the 
middle of May. 

Those half-hardy annuals, the Zinnias, are good for 
beds, on account of their abundance of brilliant flowers 
of all colours — carmine, crimson, orange, purple, rose, 
scarlet, yellow, and white, and almost all the colours, 
may be had in the double-flowering kind, which is very 
handsome. jMessrs. Carter and Co. sell sixpenny packets 
of seed, single or double (including all the colours), 
which should be sown in a hot-bed in April, afterwards 
hardened, and planted out when there is no more danger 
of cold. They require a good rich loamy soil. They 
will often come fine if sown under a hand glass late in 
April, and protected at night. They flower from Mid- 
summer to Michaelmas. 

The Saponaria has several varieties, none more than 
half a foot high, remaining in flower from June almost 
to Xovember. Its masses of minute rose-coloured 
blossoms are pretty, and there is one of a pure white. 
Most of them are hardy annuals ; the seed should be 
sown in the open ground in April. They thrive in 
sandy loam, with a little peat or decayed vegetable earth. 
Saponaria ocymoides is a perennial, which may be pro- 
pagated by division of the root, or cuttings of the points 
of the shoots. It is of a trailing habit, and is good for 
knolls or rockwork. 

The Cyclamen is a charming flower w^ith which to fill 
a bed ; its drooping delicate flowers, and low habit of 
growth, are very pretty, but it does not remain very long 
in bloom. The root, being a solid corm, will not divide, 
so young plants must be grown from seed. Gather the 
seed as soon as it is ripe, dry it slowly, and sow it in 
February, in a mixture of peat, loam, and sand. Cover 
the seed with scarcely a quarter of an inch of earth, and 
sow it far apart, because the young plants should not be 
disturbed for a long time. When they are a year old 
they may be potted singly, re-potted in April, and kept 
in a gentle heat, to increase the size of the bulbs. 
Many of the cyclamens will grow out of doors in a wai^m 



102 PLOTTERS ASB THE ELOWEE GAEDEX. 



situation and good compost, but tlie bed or border should 
be well drained, and a covering of tan or coal ashes 
should be laid over the roots in autumn, and left until 
the weather gets warm. The bulbs may be taken up 
and replanted in October, or they may be left in for two 
years. Slugs and wire worms ai'e Yer\^ destructive to 
them. Most of them flower in the spring, but a few 
early in autumn. 

Cyclamens are very pretty in pots. They should be 
planted in autumn, have little water until the flower is 
formed, and after that plenty. They may be kept in a 
frame until they flower, and then brought into the green- 
house or room. The Persian cyclamen is a greenhouse 
plant, and is sweet-scented. 

Several of the Larkspurs are good for bedding, espe- 
cially where tall groups are wanted. Delphinium for- 
mosum and D. Hendersoni are hardy perennials, gi'ow- 
ing rather tall, producing fine blue and w^hite flowers the 
first year, provided the seed be sown early. Del- 
phiiiium grandiflorum ccelestinurn is a handsome variet}', 
growing not more than two feet high, and produc- 
ing flowers of a splendid blue. They may be sown 
in sandy loam, in the open ground, and will keep in 
bloom from June or July for several montlis. 

"^liere a mass of brilliant yellow is wanted, tlie Esch- 
coltzia may come in conveniently, but in a tolerably 
warm place, with light earth, care must be taken that it 
does not become an encroaching weed. In any place 
where it has grown, and which it likes, it is only neces- 
sary to watch for the young plants to come up, when a 
bed of it, or large clump is wanted, and remove them 
with so large a ball of earth that the roots are not dis- 
turbed. It grows near the ground, and keeps in full 
flower from Midsummer to August. The white are 
delicate, but poor compared with those of a full yellow 
and orange. 

The Lantanas are very nice bedding plants, growing 
from one to two feet high, and producing their pretty 
compact bunches of flower of various colours, from June 
to September. Increase by taking cuttings when growtli 



EEDDIXG- PLANTS. 



103 



commences in the spring, about two inches long, close 
to the old wood. They gi^ow in fibrj peat and loam, 
flower in summer, and keep in flower many months. If 
they ai'e grown from seed, the plants must be raised in a 
hot-bed. 

The Leptosiphon is a very pretty hardy annual, easy of 
cultivation, growing in any good garden soil. The 
difi'erent sorts are from half a foot to a foot high, and 
keep in flower from June to October. The seed may be 
sown out of doors in March. Leptosiphon densiflorus 
alhus is valuable from the purity of its white, producing 
masses of bloom that are very telling in a bed. There 
are other varieties with lilac, orange, purple, and yellow 
flowers. 

The pretty little Memophila is very nice for borders, 
from its low bushy growth and abundance of bloom, 
keeping in flower from June for many months. It will 
grow very readily from seed, in any garden soil It is 
in almost all colours. 

Portulacas are beautiful, free-blooming, half-hardy 
annuals of almost all bright colours, of a low habit of 
growth, and keeping in flower from Midsummer to 
Michaelmas. The seed should be sown in a compost of 
sandy peat, leaf-mould, and burnt earth. When the 
plants are pricked out, which may be in June, an inch 
or two of lime rubbish, burnt earth, and sand should be 
spread on the ground, to prevent the plants damping 
ofl". They require scai'cely any water. 

Pentstemons are tolerably hardy, tall perennials, pro- 
ducing handsome flowers of various colours in the 
autumn. P. Murrayanus is a brilliant scarlet. P. Hart- 
ivegi and its varieties, and P. pulclielliis and its varieties, 
are very free blooming kinds. To get them to flower 
early in autumn, sow seed early in March in a hot-bed, 
and plant out in May. If sown out ot doors in spring 
they must have protection. They may be increased also 
by division of the plants in spring, or by cuttings of the 
young shoots in spring, summer, or autumn, under a 
glass, in sandy loam and leaf-mouid. Gentianoides and 
its varieties require a little protection in vinter, unless 



104 FLOWEES A^TD THE FLOWER GARDEI?-. 



the position be warm, and for security it is best to take 
cuttings of them, and keep them in a cold pit through 
the winter. 




Diagram No. 2. 

A. Rose-bushes: Jules Margottin, Duchess of Sutherland, and Marquise Boccella. 

B. Scarlet Geranium, border of blue Lobelia. 

c. Purple King Verbena; border, Mrs. Pollock or Sunset Geranium. 

D. Heliotrope pegged down; border, Mrs, Pollock or Sunset Geranium. 

E. White Petunias ; border, Goldenchain Geranium. 

F. Yellow Calceolaria. g. Purple Petunia. 



33eddi:j^g plants. 



105 



The (Enothera and Godetia are large showy flo\Yers, 
some of which grow very tall. The ffi. acaulis bears 
very delicate silvery- white flowers ; the CE. grandlflora, 
and many others, are a bright pure yellow. The Godetias 
are hardy annuals, many of them purple, allied to the 
Oenotheras. Rosea alba is white, with a bright crimson 
spot on each petal. They may be raised from seed sown 
in the garden in March and April, or sown in September 
and protected in the winter. The annual Oenotheras 
may be served in the same way. The perennials may 
be increased by division of the plants in spring, and the 
rarer kinds by cuttings of the young shoots under a 
hand glass, early in summer. Seed of the perennials 
should be sov/n on a slight hot-bed in the spring, and 
planted out in May. 

Sanvitalia j^^'ocimbens is a beautiful hardy annual, 
growing close to the ground : a capital plant for cover- 
ing a bed, or for borders. The flowers are a rich brown 
and yellow, and large in proportion to the size of the 
plant. Sow in March or April, in the open ground. 

In arranging this list of plants for the garden of set 
form, I have tried to introduce all heights and all varieties 
of colour, so that w^hatever may be the situation, form, 
or size of the bed to be planted, an appropriate sugges- 
tion may be found. Masses of ichite may be obtained 
in several verbenas, campanulas, geraniums, phloxes, 
Oenotheras, sweet alyssum, white Clarkia, petunias, 
and white Salvia imtens. For scarlets, verbenas, 
geraniums, and salvias are the grand resource. For 
■purples we may get supplied amongst verbenas, petunias, 
lobelias, lantanas, and phloxes. Fine pinks may be 
found in geraniums, verbenas, and salvias, besides many 
plants more particularly described above. For Uues we 
have lobelias, cinerarias, salvias, and several common 
flowers. The yellows already named are sufficiently 
numerous, and in addition, Coreopsis lanceolata and 
many others might be given. 



106 TLOWEBS A]S'D THE rLOl^'EE GAEDCT. 



CHAPTEE XIV, 

BULBS, TUBEES, ETC. 

Bulbs, and plants of similar character, are especially 
valuable on account of the little room they take, in pro- 
portion to the size and handsome appearance of their 
flowers ; also because a great many of them bloom when 
other flowers are scarce, and they can be cultivated with- 
out difliculty. When bulbs are in a state of rest, the 
approach of which is indicated by the leaves dying after 
the flowering is over, they should be moved and kept 
out of the ground a longer or shorter time, according 
to the kind. With the summer flowering kinds this 
happens in autumn; and with those which flower in 
autumn, in the spring. Some have to be taken up 
annually, others will go on without for a number of years, 
and none should be kept long out of the ground. x\lmost 
all bulbs require a free, dry, and rather rich soil. They 
are injured by being allowed to go to seed. As they 
grow fast while in the growing stage, they generally 
require plenty of water and depth of soil. 

In the case of many, interesting new colours may be 
obtained from seed, w4iich should be sown far apart in 
beds of light earth, w^Jiere the young plants can remain 
until they flower, wnich is often from three to Ave years, 
sometimes much longer. 

That magnificent tribe of flowers, the Lilies, are noble 
ornaments in any flower garden. We have scarcely so 
fine a white in any other flower as in the white lily, 
Lilium candidum. The situation for these roots should 
be well drained, and the soil for them is a good loam, 
well manured. If left in a place they like, the clumps 
will improve in size and beauty; if. on the contrary, 
they decline, take them up in Septem&er, change the 
exhausted soil for good compost, place at the bottom of 



BULES, TUEEES, ETC.: LILIES. 



107 



each hole, where it is intended to replant, a shovelful of 
rotten dung, and plant three strong roots in each clump. 
They should not be kept any time out of ground ; they 
will flower the year after, and much better the year after 
that. The small offsets can be planted in a nursery bed 
of the same rich earth, and in two years or so they too 
will be fit for planting in the garden. 

The Martagon Lily, or Turk's Cap, may be treated like 
the white lily, only mix sand with the soil in which it is 
planted. 

Those vv^U-known lilies, the Tiger Lily and Orange 
Lily {JLilium tigriraini and Lilium aurantium), make 
handsome showy clumps in the flower garden, producing 
abundance of flowers respectively in August and Sep- 
tember, and May and June. These may be planted in 
the same way as the white lily, but when the flower 
stems grow up they throw out rootlets round the bottom ; 
to strengthen the flowering, these should be encouraged 
by throwing a few little lumps of manure round the 
stems for them to take hold of. These lilies increase 
abundantly by the formation of tiny bulbs at the axils of 
the leaves on the flower stems. When these fall with 
a touch, plant them, six inches apart, in a bed of light 
earth, richly manured. In two or three years plant 
them out again, double the distance apart, and in tw^o 
years niore they will be fine bulbs. 

The magnificent Lilium lancifolium in its few beautiful 
varieties, should be a matter for investment, in the 
necessary number of shillings for the purchase of the 
roots, and in the necessary care for its not difficult culti- 
vation, for every one who really loves splendid flowers — 
and who does not ? There are the white, the red, and 
the golden. The last is of comparatively recent intro- 
duction ; in addition to the rich crimson spots on its 
delicate white petals, it has a beautifully shaded, bright 
gold band down each, and it is magnificent alike in the 
size of the flower, and in the size of the spray, as the 
bulb reaches maturity. These roots make beautiful 
greenhouse plants, and they will do in the open ground 
in the southern parts of England. For pot culture, 



108 PLOTVERS AlsD THE FLOWSH GAEDE^'. 



plant the large-sized bulbs early in March in 11-inch 
pots, three together, in rich sandy earth. Place them 
safe from frost, give very little water, but plenty of air 
in mild weather. They should grow slowly to give 
strength to the roots, and when frost is over for the year 
they may be plunged in a bed of old tan, until, from the 
advancing season, the greenhouse gets thin of plants ; 
then place them there with pans under the pots, mulch 
the surface with well rotted dung, and give air and water 
liberally. In the open ground they may be cultivated 
like the white lily, but there must be a covering 
of dry ashes, or some such protection, over the bulbs in 
wdnter. They throw out roots at the bottom of the 
stems like the tiger lily, and are propagated, like the 
white lily, by offsets. 

Irises (although I include them in this chapter) are of 
three kinds, the fibrous rooted, those which grow from 
tubers, and those which grow from bulbs. The first like 
a rich loamy soil, the others will thrive better in leaf- 
mould and peat, with the addition of sand, as much 
damp rots the roots. The fibrous rooted are increased 
by division of the roots, and taking off the suckers ; and 
the 'tubers by division. The bulbs form new roots, and 
as the new come under the old roots, they should be 
taken up and replanted every second or third year. 
The handsome Chalcedonian iris requires a dry soil in 
whiter, and plenty of pure air. The Tigridia, or Jersey 
iris, of which there are several varieties, is a showy 
flower, with a gay mixture of scarlet, yellow, and choco- 
late. It grows well in sandy loam and leaf-mould, and 
the roots must be taken up for the winter. Each flower 
lasts only one day, but every root produces several. The 
irises are summer flowers. 

The Agapanthus, or African Lily, is a half-hardy bulb 
from the Cape of Good Hope : the large umbels of blue 
flowers, and its free growth, keeping verdant all the 
winter, are famihar to all. It flowers in summer, and 
keeps in flower a very long time. The roots are generally 
grown in pots, as they must be housed safe from frost 
in the winter. Forming a portion of a group under a 



AFETCAX Ayjy BELLADONITA LILIES. 109 



verandah, on a large stage, to flank steps to a house, on 
a parapet, or m any similar position, provided it be shel- 
tered, they look handsome, and retain their beauty a 
long time. The roots should be re-potted the beginning 
of spring, in rich loam, with leaf-mould, or rotted 
manure. Place them in a greenhouse, v;hen they begin 
to grow freely give them plenty of water, and turn them 
out of doors in May, in a sheltered spot, with pans of 
w^ater under the pots. If they are kept to flower in- 
doors, let them have plenty of air. When the flowering 
is over withhold the watering to a great extent, to get 
the earth in the pots pretty dry, and take them in as 
soon as there is danger of frost. They should be kept 
very dry until they show signs of vegetating. The 
African lily forces easily with bottom heat and plenty of 
water, but the flowers will be pale in colour. For in- 
crease separate the roots while they are in a dormant 
state. In the Channel Islands they live out of doors. I 
have never known them tried in the open ground in 
England, but from their hardiness I do not see why 
they should not do, in a warm situation, if protected 
during the dormant stage from wet and frost. 

The Belladonna Lily, Amaryllis helladonna, has the 
fault of sending up its stem of beautiful, bright rose- 
coloured, lily-like flowers, without leaves, like sunshine 
without shade, and similar anomalies, sometimes, but 
not often, found in nature. The situation for them must 
be well drained and sheltered ; they will do out of doors 
only in warm situations, and they must be taken in for 
the winter. They are from the Cape of Good Hope, 
and flower late in summer or in autumn. The rule to 
be observed with all bulbs, to give them a season for 
growth and a season of rest, must be especially kept to 
with belladonnas : give them plenty of water, heat, and 
all encouragement at command, when they are coming 
into flow^er, and staiwe them^ in those items when the 
flower is past, until they are in a state of rest, i.e. non- 
growth ; then keep them in a temperature several degrees 
above freezing, and give no w^ater. The roots may be 
planted in a warm border, six inches deep, not too soon 



110 TLOWEES AND THE TLOWEH OAEDEN. 



in spring, and taken up before frost can come. When 
it is wished to make them flower early, take dormant 
bulbs, pot them in sandy loam and leaf-mould, place 
them in heat beginning at 50^, and increasing gradually 
to 60^ or 70% and when the leaves grow, give plenty of 
water. If it be considered desirable that seed should 
ripen, the plants must be watered until the seeds are ripe, 
but not so liberally as while the plants are in flower. 
The seed should be sown directly it is ripe, in sandy 
loam, and the pots should be placed in a moist house or 
frame, near the glass. Pot off the little plants when they 
are two inches high, shift them as often as they want 
it, and they will reach a flowering size when about 
a yeai' and a half old : the pots should be well drained 
with crocks. In the west of England, the Channel 
Islands, and similar localities, the belladonna lily does 
well in the open ground Planted near together, the 
roots become a mass which need not be disturbed ; 
and thus grown they look very well, as there are gene- 
rally some roots with leaves in each clump, as well as 
those in flower, and this takes off the bare look which 
flowers without green always wear. 

Anemones, ranunculuses, tulips, hyacinths, and many 
other flovv^erSj coming into the category of the fleshy 
rooted plants proposed to be included in this chapter, 
have been already discussed. 

The Tritoma uvaria makes such fine showy clumps in 
a garden that it should never be left out. Its tube- 
shaped flowers, shaded from scarlet to pale yellovr, are 
produced in great abundance, and the roots may be 
iDOught at one shilling or two shillings each. It came 
to us from the Cape of Good Hope, flowers in summer, 
remains in beauty a long time, delights in rich sandy 
soil, and requires protection from wet and frost in winter. 
It is increased by division, and by suckers from the 
roots. 

Tritoma grandis is of stronger growth, flowers when 
T. uvaria leaves off, and continues in flower quite into 
winter. The two will continue in beauty five months or 
more. 



TUBEROSE. GLADIOLrS. IXTA. 



Ill 



The Tuberose is a bulb which is largely grown in 
Italy for exportation. The roots may be bought for 
about three shillings a dozen ; they may be brought for- 
ward in a frame, and when they are coming into flower 
they may be planted out or removed into the house or 
greenhouse. The fragrance of their pretty white flowers 
IS more fitted for out of doors than for a house. For 
soil they require rich sandy loam. 

The Gladiolus is a bulb from the Cape of Good Hope, 
w^hich will stand our winters if it can be kept dry. For 
planting the roots in the garden, dig out the earth a foot 
deep, and put in a layer of good leaf-mould or well 
rotted manure, and for the suiface mix well manured 
garden earth with sand. Put in the roots six inches 
deep, cover them with an inch in depth of sand, and 
then fill in the earth. Eake the surface smooth, keep it 
weeded and stirred from time to time, and in sharp 
weather cover the roots w^ith dry litter several inches 
thick. When they throw up the spikes for flow^er let 
them have plenty of water. The early flowering sorts 
may be planted the end of October ; Eamosiis, For- 
mosissimuSy &c., in December; and Gandavensis, Flori- 
hundus, Psittaciniis and Splendens in Febraary and 
March ; and they will bloom well in the autumn. The 
gladioli make nice pot plants. They increase well by 
ofi'sets, which should be divided from the old roots when 
they are taken up after flowering, and planted at once in 
a bed of veiy rich earth, thoroughly well drained. 

New varieties may be obtained from seed by hybridiz> 
ing the finest formed flowers with pollen from flowers 
of the most beautiful colours. Sow the seed in gentle 
heat in the spring, and when the seedlings are up let 
them have plenty of air and very little water. As the 
weather gets mild put them out ; leave them to gentle 
showers, but shelter them from hedcvj rain. When the 
leaves die off pick out the little bulbs, and in Septem- 
ber make beds for them, as for the offsets, and there 
let them remain two years, when they will flower if 
transplanted into a new well-made bed. 

The Ixia, Tritonia, and Sparaxis are pretty flowers^ 



112 FLOWERS a™ the FLOWER GARDEN. 



similar in character, and very varied in colour in the 
different kinds. They grow in peat, mixed with sand, 
and will grow out of doors in a warm border. They 
must be protected from frost, and the roots should not 
get too dry while they are growing. They may be 
potted in October, kept from cold or heavy rain, and 
placed in a greenhouse, or in a window w^hen the roots 
begin to grow. They have a slender growth, and are 
from half a foot to two feet high, and they most of them 
flower in the spring. 

The Polyanthus Narcissus, Single Narcissus, Jon- 
quil, Double Daffodil, and all the Narcissus tribe, are 
most valuable in a garden, from producing their deli- 
cately beautiful fragrant flowers early, and without 
much trouble in the cultivation. They are all hardy, 
and will grow in good garden soil, if sand be put round 
the roots. The fine large bulbs produce the finest 
flowers. They may be allowed to remain in the ground 
year after year. When the flowering is over the leaves 
must not be cut off, but left to die down. Most of the 
kinds produce offsets from the bulbs freely, and they 
may also be grown from seed. Boots wanted for forcing 
should be taken out of the ground when the leaves have 
died down, and be kept in a dry cool place until the 
autumn. Almost all flower in spring, some very early. 
Only Ohsoletus, with white, and Veridiflorus with green 
flowers, bloom respectively in August and September. 

Crocuses are almost a necessary for making the flower 
garden gay in early spring, for the ground is scarcely 
clear of snow when the beds become enamelled with 
their large sized, bright coloured, prettily varied flowers, 
of brilliant gold, purple, lavender, and white, plain or 
variously streaked. Any garden soil will do for them, 
but they prefer rich sandy earth. They may be planted 
from towards the end of summer to the end of 
November ; and to make beds gay in spring which have 
been filled with summer flowers, the crocus roots should 
be put in as soon as they can be obtained. To get a 
succession of them flowering in pots, they may be 
planted at intervals, from the earliest time at which they 



CEOCUSES. miTILLAEIA IMPEEIALIS. 



113 



can be bought, five, seven, or more roots in each pot. 
If they have heat, it should be very slight, and they will 
come forward nicely on the windows indoors. In 
planting them out of doors they should be put about 
three inches deep, and two inches apart : a w^et poor soil 
does not do. Good roots are imported, and may be 
bought at any good florist's, and depended on, at from 
Is. bd. per hundred to fic^. per dozen. The roots should 
be taken up every second year, the large roots replanted^ 
and the small offsets planted in a bed for two years. 

To raise seedlings sow in October in an airy spot, in 
light rich earth, cover the seed to the depth of a 
quarter of an inch, and when the young plants grow up 
in the spring, only keep them clean from weeds, clear 
away the leaves wlien quite decayed, and spread a little 
rich light earth over the roots. Treat them the same 
for another year, and in September transplant them 
into fresh light rich earth, three inches apart, and in 
tw^o years more they will flower, when good new sorts 
should be taken care of The Autumn crocus, Crocus 
sativus, from which saffron is made, is very pretty, and 
worthy of a place in the garden : its flowers are violet. 
Most of the autumn flowering kinds are violet or 
purple, but some are white. The C. Cartwriglitianus 
creticus is a pretty pale yellow, with fine large flowers, 
which come in October. 

The Fritillaries are hardy bulbs, w^hich are handsome 
either in pots or in the borders. They do best in sandy 
loam; the roots may be planted in autumn, taken up as 
soon as the leaves decay, and kept in a rather moist 
place until they are planted again. 

Fritillaria imperialis, the stately Crown Imperilffis in 
three colours, yellow, dark yellow, and red : it grows , 
very high, and is indeed a noble-looking flower. As it 
flowers in April, it may be used for a bed in spring, 
and the foliage w411 die off soon enough for the roots to 
be talvcn up to give place to later flowers. It should 
have a deep rich soil, well drained, and w^hen the stems 
send out young shoots above the bulbs a top dressing 
of well rotted manure should be given, close round the 

I 



114 



FLOWEES AND THE FLOWEE aAEDE^f. 



stem. When the bulbs grow large, they will produce two 
stems, each of which will perfect a bulb, and at the time 
when the roots may be taken up these may be planted 
apart. 

The Crown Imperial will not do for pot culture, 
but the smaller fritillaries flower well in pots. Plant 
them in October, in light rich earth, four in a pot. 
Plunge the pots in ashes on a hot-bed, and protect them 
from frost, until they show bloom, and then place them 
in the greenhouse, or plant them in groups in the 
borders. Offsets are produced round the old roots, and 
should be taken off and planted in light rich earth 
every third year : there they may remain until they 
flower. 

The pretty gold besprinkled Guernsey Lily, Nerine 
sariiiensisy suffers from an undeserved bad character. 
It often flowers without earth, and therefore, for the 
curiosity, it has been allowed to do so ; it often, from 
improper treatment, flowers but once, and then the bulb 
is done for ; but with due care these bulbs will do well 
for years. They require a strong rich loam with sand, 
and when the root has produced flower late in summer 
it must be encouraged, by good soil and water, to mature 
leaves in abundance, otherwise the root will not be in 
condition to produce flower again the following year. 
Plant the roots in a rich, light, well drained bed, and 
there let them keep their place year after year. Manure 
the bed in spring, and in winter protect the roots from 
frost with litter or dead leaves. Without a vigorous 
growth of the leaves the bulbs will not prosper. They 
must be deeply planted, and the situation of the bed 
should be warm, and sheltered, and dry In winter. On 
a sunny bank, against the front of a greenhouse, I have 
known them do well, and flower for years. When they 
are grown in pots they should be planted deep, in light 
rich peat and sand, the bulb being well covered. They 
are chiefly increased by offsets, but they may be grown 
from seed sown in heat. 

The Anornatheca cruenta is a sweet little bulb, pro- 
ducing a great abundance of bright red flowers, with a 



■DIELTTEA GPECTABILIS. LEUCOJTTM. 



115 



low growth of grasslike foliage. It is hardy, and very 
suitable for vases, edges, or groups on flower borders. 
It likes a mixture of loam and peat. It is also pretty, 
gay, and lasting for pots in windows, or elsewhere. It 
flowers in July, and the moment the seed is ripe it 
should be sown, when it will produce bulbs, which will 
flower the next year. It is said to require protection 
from frost, but we have had pans of roots left out all 
the winter, without injury. 

The Dielytra spectabilis is a chai^ming tuberous rooted 
plant, fit for forcing in pots for early hloom, or for plant- 
ing in good tufty groups, in any warm sheltered border. 
Its delicate and peculiar shaped flowers and prettily cut 
foliage, resemble those of the common fumitory. It 
requires a rich light soil, and is easily increased by 
division of the root, as in the dahlia, or by cuttings. 
It flowers in spring. 

The Leiicojum, Snowflake, or St. Agnes' Flower, is a 
sweet little white flower, of a pretty drooping habit, like 
the snowdrop, only larger, and growing several on a 
stalk. The roots increase abundantly, flower in spring, 
and do well for planting an aquarium. Sow the seed 
as it ripens. 

The Ornitliogalum umhellatum^ or Star of Bethlehem, 
is a pretty flow^er, of a clear decided white, and quite 
hardy. It will do for years on the same spot. 

The Oxalis is a tuberous root, of which there are 
many varieties, producing showy flow^ers of various 
colours — red, rose-colour, purple, and yellow. The 
culture is the same as for the ixia, and many of them 
require protection in winter. Most of them may be 
bought for '2s, per dozen or less. 

The Scilla is a pretty bright-coloured spring flower, 
which is quite hardy, and will grow^ in any good garden 
soil. 

The Winter Aconite is almost the earliest blooming of 
bulbs. It likes a light soil, and a w^arm open diy 
situation. 

The Zephyranthes are Cape bulbs, which produce 
elegant flowers, one on a stem. Some of them are 

I 2 



116 



TLOWEES AIJTD THE TLOWEE GAEDE2T. 



quite hardy, and may be planted like crocuses on any 
warm border, and, like them, they must be taken up 
every two or three years. They like a somewhat sandy 
soil. 

The sweet delicate little Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis, 
will do what so few pretty flowers will do, thrive under 
the drip of trees. The double snowdrop is perhaps 
more taking, and the Eussian snowdrop, with smaller 
flowers, is also pretty. Snowdrops like a light rich soil, 
and increase by offsets. They flower very early, and 
should be divided and replanted every four or five 
years. 

The sweet and lovely Lily of the Valley also grows 
under the drip of trees, but it requires light. This pretty 
plant is very touchy, but where once it takes it grows 
luxuriantly. Only leave it alone, for nothing seems so 
much to interfere with success as digging among 
the roots. Where the roots take they will grow so 
abundantly that clumps maybe taken and never missed. 
That rather favourite plant with many, the Solomon's 
Seal, is of the same family. 



CHAPTEE XV. 

ANNUALS. 

It is almost superfluous to mention that annuals are 
plants which grow up from seed and die in one year. 
Many of them can, however, be kept alive for a second 
year, and encouraged to grow large, by preventing their 
ripening seed the first. 

Hardy annuals are those that bear our climate so 
well that the seed may at once be sown in the open 
border, from February to May, according to their capa- 
city for withstanding the degree of frost which vre often 
get in spring. A succession, for flowering later, may be 
sown even until the middle of June. Many kinds will 



117 



bear transplanting, but, as a general rule, it is best to 
sow the seed where the flow^ers are to remain. When 
seed is to be sown, the ground should be duly prepared 
by forking, manuring, and adding any other soil or fer- 
tilizer w^hich the nature of the ground, and of the plants 
to be grown in it, may require. The spot to be sown 
may then be made firm and flattened by pressing it with 
the bottom of a flowerpot saucer, or other flat surface ; 
then spread the seed, taking especial care that it shall 
not be thick enough for the young plants to come up 
crowded, cover it with fine mould, and put in a label. 
All kinds of tallies and labels are sold and used, but 
bits of lath, in six or nine-inch lengths, smoothed, 
painted, and written on with a pencil, do very well. If 
the seedlings come up too thickly they must be thinned 
to such a distance apart as their size when grown up 
w^ill require ; but as thinning, however carefully done, 
can hardly fail to do mischief to the plants left, sowing 
seeds thinly should be always attended to. To save the 
seed from being eaten by birds, a garden pot may be 
turned down over them until they are up. 

Half-hardy annuals are those which must be raised 
indoors, or with the aid of heat, and protected from 
frost, but which will do in the open air with us in 
summer. Most of these are sown in a gentle hot-bed in 
March, April, or earlier. When they have a few leaves 
they are pricked out into pots or seedling pans, still 
kept in the frame, in a greenhouse, or indoors, and 
planted out w^hen all danger of frost is past. Many 
flowers of this kind may be reared without difficulty 
on the window^s or flower stands in a sitting-room or 
other rooms in a dwelling-house, safe from cold, frost, 
and too great change of temperature. In frost, if they 
are grown on a window^ seat or window ledge, it is 
sometimes necessary to remove them to the table in 
the middle of the room when the fires are put out, 
until they are lighted again. It is often a good plan to 
sow the seed so thinly in pots that each pot may make a 
clump for planting out. When the roots are so grown 
as to make a good ball of the earth in the pot, it may 



118 PLOVERS A^'D THE ELOWEE GaEEIE^. 

be planted out without being broken, which will greatly 
facilitate the after gi'owth. 

Tender or greenhouse annuals require shelter and 
warmth at all times, but some of them will do in a warm 
sheltered spot out of doors from June until the nights 
get cold, and will even ripen their seed. 

The same terms of hardy, half-hardy, and tender are 
applied to all plants : and in making selection h'om the 
excellent and valuable lists of plants and seeds which 
are sent out annually by Messrs. Carter and Co., of 
Holborn, and other first-class dealers, it is necessaiy to 
bear in mind that the plants, bulbs, seeds, &c., mai'ked 
"hardy" will do entirely in the open air, that those 
marked "half-hardy" and ''tender*' must be raised with 
the aid of heat, and protected from cold and fi^ost. In 
the protection given it is often necessaiy to guard 
against too much wet, as well as too much cold. This 
is especially the case with bulbs, and all of the car- 
nation kind : many which are staunch against the cold 
of our climate succumb to its damp. 

There are many annuals which, from being especially 
well adapted to bedding, have been spoken of in the 
chapter on bedding plants. As my little book is in- 
tended to help the many in planting and cultivating their 
gardens, its arrangement does not aim at science, but 
rather at helping the amateur in his work, and its 
chapters are made mainly with reference to this end. 

Mignonette is of such constant utility in giving 
fragi\Hnce to the garden, and in filling up very prettily 
eveiy corner that wants filling up, that it must come 
first among annuals. I believe it is not an annual in 
its own country, but with us it is generally treated as one. 
and is so\mi in the open ground in light sandy loam, well 
drained, and manured with leaf-mould, from the end 
of April to the beginning of July, keeping the whole 
garden fragrant until the frost cuts it off. If the seed 
be allowed to shed, abundance of self-sown plants will 
come up the following spring, and these should always 
be cai'efully spared, as they will be finer, and flower 
earlier than those from seed regularly sown. The soil 



MIGNONETTE TEESS, 



119 



for it should be sandy for the perfume to be in full per- 
fection. 

To get pots of mignonette in flower in the winter 
sow seed in the open gi^ound, or in pots placed where 
they will have plenty of air and light, in July. In 
September shift the young plants into the pots in 
which they are to flower. One plant to a pot, if flne, or 
three, if rather small, will be quite enough, and in 
moving them care should be taken not to disturb the 
earth from the roots^ If the pots fill with root, re -potting 
into larger pots will make the plants grow fine. Before 
there is a chance of cold nights take the pots into the 
house, and keep them in a room without a fire until 
they have flower buds, and then they may be placed in 
a sitting-room w^here there is a fire, and with good 
watering every day, and preventing their seeding, they 
will keep in flower for months. Seedlings from seed 
sown a month later may be brought forward to succeed 
these, only keeping them safe from frost until they are 
brought fonvard to flower. By a similar process pots in 
bloom may be kept for the house all the year round. 

The mignonette, as I mentioned before, is a perennial 
in its own country, and a little management in culture 
will, without difficulty, make a tree of it here. Sow 
seed the end of April in a compost of rich mellow loam, 
mixed \»"iih one-third of thoroughly rotted cow-manure, 
a little sand, and a little lime rubbish. Have as many 
small pots as you wish to have plants, place at the 
bottom of each some crocks, a little of the lime, and 
fill the pots with the compost ; place three seeds in the 
centre of each, just cover them with earth, press them 
down tight, and water them. Place the pots in a window, 
or in a cool greenhouse, and do not force them, but let 
them have plenty of air. Water every morning with a 
fine rose, and when the days are fine enough put them 
out of doors for a few hours. As the little plants grow 
strong, pull up all but the finest, put a stick a foot long 
or more against it, pressed down to the bottom of the 
pot for steadiness, and train the plant to it, as it grows 
tall, with slight ties of worsted. Stop all side shoots at 



120 PLOWEES AXD THE TLOWEE GAEDE^'. 



the second joint, and nip off all the flower huds before 
they bloom. The second year cut back the side shoots 
closer, beginning at the bottom, and going up gradually 
week by week, and continue to train the plant up tall. 
As the pots get full of root, re-pot the plants, on as far 
as August, not later. Of course they must be kept from 
frost in winter. "When they are one year old the stems 
will get woody, and before they are three years old they 
will be shrubs, and will bloom well for many years. 

There is a larger flowered mignonette, which is, I 
believe, only the result of cultivation. 

For hardy annuals we have Venus 's Looking-glass 
[Specularia speculum), producing its purple flowers in 
spring and early summer. It likes a rather sandy soil. 

Convolvulus minor produces a good mass of blue in 
spring, and the Nolanas are similar to it in character, 
with purple, violet, blue, and white flowers. They will 
grow in any good garden soil. Calandrinia umhellata 
grows freely in any garden soil, and produces its crimson 
flowers, close to the ground, in June, and flowers for a 
long time. The colour is brilliant, and there are other 
pretty Calandriniae, growing rather higher, of other 
colours. The plants will flower earlier if raised in 
gentle heat, or under a hand glass. Cacalia, scarlet and 
yellow, are useful plants of free growth. Sow the seed 
in the borders in April. 

The Calliopsis, or Coreopsis, is a summer-flowering 
showy annual, the several kinds of which are of various 
gay colours, and are useful from remaining long in 
flower, especially if the seed be nipped ofl" as soon 
as the flower drops. Sow the seed in March, and 
protect by a turned down garden pot over each clump ; 
or sow the seed on a hot-bed, and plant out the young 
plants where they are wanted, when they are lai'ge 
enough. The difl'erent kinds grow^ from one to three 
feet high, and they do in a light sandy soil. The 
seed may be sown in autumn, and will then flower 
earlier. Some of them are perennials, and they may be 
increased by division of the root. 

The Callichroa ijlatyrjlossa is hardy, with bright yellow 



CLAEKIAS. CA>DYTrrTS. 



121 



composite flowers, the seed of which may be sown in 
March, in a shc^ht hot-bed, or under a hand glass, or in 
the open gromid rather later. The Cladanthus Arahicus 
produces its dark yellow flowers in July, and keeps long 
in flower. Sow the seed in April. The Cladanthus 
canescens is a greenhouse evergi'een, producing its yellow 
flowers in June, and is propagated from cuttings under 
a glass. 

The Clarkias are pretty pink and white flowers, of deli- 
cate fomi, from one and a half to two feet high, flowering 
abundantly from June to the end of summer. The seed 
may be so^ti in March or in September, and protected 
through the winter, to bloom early. The Rose of Heaven 
(Viscaria cceli rosa), with its pretty rose-coloured flowers, 
and several of the same family, producing pink, white, 
and scarlet flowers, ai'e profuse bloomers, fit for beds, 
edgings, or groups. Sow the seed in the border in April; 
or in a wami dry sheltered spot in September, to stand 
the winter and flower early. Scliizopetalon Walkeri is a 
low growing, cruciform, white flower, veiy fragrant, and 
thriving in sandy loam and leaf-mould. Eucharidium 
concinnum are low growing, free blooming, hardy annuals, 
flowering from spring to autumn. Sow in September, 
Z\Iarch, and May, to keep up a succession. The Eutocas, 
of several kinds, are free blooming annuals of various 
colom^s. The seed may be sown in April, and the 
plants must be far apart to give plenty of air, or they 
will not thrive. 

The Hibiscus Africanus is an annual, growing two 
feet high ; to bring it forward early it is best to give 
the seed a little heat under a glass, and to put out the 
young plants nearly a foot apart, in May. 

The Candytufts are low growing annuals, biennials, 
and evergiTens, ^ith cruciform flowers, most of which are 
white. They may be sown in autumn, to stand the 
winter, or in the spring. The sempervirens, and all of 
its class, may be gro^Ti from seed or cuttings. The 
Kaulfussias are low growing and pretty, the difi'erent 
kinds having blue, dark violet, and rose-coloured flowers. 
Seed may be sown in the borders in April, but it is 



122 FLOWERS AKD THE ELOWEB GAEDEN. 

better to sow in March, and give a little heat. The 
pretty composite flower comes out in June or July, but 
it does not last very long. 

Lupines are of all colours and all heights. The 
seed is sown in the ground in February or March. 
3£iitabilis and M. CniichhanJci are splendidly branching 
plants, which, if sown early in autumn and kept in a 
frame for the winter, make fine plants. The perennials 
are good bushy plants for a large garden, and are in- 
creased by seed, or division of the roots. Love in a 
Mist (Nigella) is hardy, compact, and pretty, some- 
thing like larkspur in habit of growth ; the different 
kinds producing flowers of various colours. The seed 
may be sown in the open ground after the middle of 
March. The ColUnsias are pretty, and may be treated 
like Coreopsis. The Pheasant's Eye {Flos Adonis), so 
pretty from the way in which the bright crimson flowers 
peep from amongst the feathery foliage, grows from seed 
in common soil, and flowers from summer into autumn. 
The Adonis has other sorts, several of which are peren- 
nials, and are increased by division of the root or by 
seed. 

Ten- weeks Stocks fully -deserve attention from their 
beauty and fragrance. Such fine varieties and colours 
are grown from the German and Kussian seed supplied 
by first-class seedsmen, that it is better to purchase 
than to save seed. Use vegetable loam, with one- 
sixth part of river sand ; sow from March to May -for 
summer flowering, and in August and September to 
stand the winter and flower early. Sow the seed far 
apart and only thinly covered, and place the pots near 
the glass. When the young plants get several leaves 
each, they may be potted singly, or planted out in groups 
or beds. To get fine plants it is best to plant them out in 
pots, and turn them out into the borders when the pots 
have good balls of root in them. Stocks like a chalky 
soil. It is said the strongest seed is most likely to pro- 
duce double flowering plants ; therefore, leave very few 
seed pods on a plant, give it high cultivation and plenty 
of sunshine. 



STOCKS. CHi:S'A ASTEES. 



123 



The Brompton Stock is a splendid plant ^hen it is 
well grown. It is a biennial ; the seed should be sown 
far apart, in a rich light soil, early in May, not in too 
hot a place. As the young plants grow, water them 
every evening with a fine rose ; they should be as much 
as six inches ajDait. When a month old some should be 
removed with good balls of earth to the roots, and cai-e- 
fully planted, so that all may be quite a foot apart. If 
the tap-root be disturbed in the removal the plants will 
not do after. In the following March or April make in 
the borders, where the stocks are to be planted, beds 
two feet deep, and two feet eveiy way, of rich sandy 
loam, enriched with leaf-mould or the remains of an old 
hot-bed, and transplant the stocks with large balls of 
earth, undisturbed. They should be shaded for a little 
time, and watered every night until they flower. 

China Asters, which are increased to an almost endless 
variety of Chinese, German, quilled, globe-flowered, 
pyramidal, French bouquet, dwarf, &c., are valuable 
from producing a gay abundance of rich-coloured bloom 
when flowers begin to get scarce, in September and 
October. You can hardly give them earth which is too 
rich, and from the seed-pans onward they must have 
plenty of air and room. The seed may be so\vn on a 
hot-bed in February or March, the young plants pricked 
out when they have a few leaves each, and planted out 
in May. Seed maybe sown, not too thickly, in the open 
gi'ound in April. First-rate seed maybe bought. Those 
who save seed themselves should take it only from the 
best flowers. Self coloured should be clear, distinct, 
and bright, and the flower should be fine in shape, very 
double, regular, and well quilled. The striped flowers 
should have the colours well defined and sharply 
marked. 

I have made my list of hardy annuals (from a few 
inches to two feet high), rather encroaching on the space 
allotted to the chapter on annuals, because it is they 
w^hich are needed in the greatest number and variety in 
filling the flower garden ; and the tenderer kinds are of 
much less general utiUty. For hardy annuals of tall 



124 PLOWEES AlTD THE TLOWEE GARDEN. 



growth we have the Sunflower, one new variety of which, 
Helianthus macropliyllus giganteus, is mentioned as grow- 
ing twenty feet high. The sunflower plants will be the 
finer if they be grown in a slight hot-bed and planted 
out. The perennial sunflower is a good shrubby plant 
to place where a large yellow flower is wanted ; it is in- 
creased by division of the root. The Jerusalem Arti- 
choke is of the same family. The Convolvulus, our old 
twining favourite, so splendid in its abundant though 
short lived flowers, has many rare and showy kinds com- 
paratively recently introduced. Most of them require 
heat to raise the seed. 

The Salpiglossis, of several varieties, are delicately 
veined, rich coloured flowers of great beauty. They 
require a light rich soil, and may be sown in autumn, 
and protected through the winter or in spring. They 
are only half hardy ; if the seed be put in the open 
ground it must not be till May. The different varie- 
ties grow from one to two feet high, and produce 
flowers of various colours, scarlet, purple, blue, sul- 
phur, &c., from July to autumn. The Mesembryanthe- 
mums are half-hardy annuals, which must be raised in 
a greenhouse or on a hot-bed. Pricked out in May 
in a sunny spot, with a sandy soil, their delicate bright 
green foliage, covered wdth ice-like little globules, 
looks refreshing and nice. Nemesia compacta, and othei 
varieties of the same, are pretty, free blooming, half- 
hardy annuals, with flowers of pure white, blue, violet, 
or pale pink, according to the variety. They must be 
raised on a hot-bed in spring, and planted out the end 
of May or June. They flower in June, grow close to 
the ground, and keep long in bloom. The Helichrysum, 
with its various varieties, is an everlasting, which is very 
useful for winter bouquets. They may be raised on a 
hot-bed early, or later in the open border. Acroclinium 
roseuvi and Eoseum album are also half-hardy annual 
everlastings, which, raised on heat, will gro\v freely in 
the garden. The Xeranthemum is a pretty purple ever- 
lasting, which is quite hardy. There is also a white 
one. 



DATUEAS. BSAKE CUCrMBEE. EALSAMS. 125 



The Daturas are showy half-hardy annuals, two 
and three feet high, wdth flowers of very large size. 
Wrightii has blue and white flowers, delicately shaded ; 
the flower of Chlorantha is golden yellow, very large, 
double, and richly scented. The young plants should be 
raised on a good hot-bed, potted ofl" into good loam and 
leaf-mould, and planted out late in June. 

The Snake Cucumber [Cucumis flexuosus) is curious 
from the snake-like form of its fruit. It must be raised 
in heat, and grows remarkably fast. The Snake Gourd 
[Tricosanthes anguina) is similar to it ; they are only 
curious. Of a like kind are the Caterpillar Plant 
[Scorpiurus), with yellow pea-shaped flowers, and seed- 
vessels resembling caterpillars, and another annual 
flower, the seed-vessel of which is like a snail. 

Honesty (for the beauty of its seed-vessel). Sweet 
Peas (raised in pots and turned out when the pots are 
full of root), Prince's Feather {Amarantlius hypocJiondri- 
acus), Love Lies Bleeding (^A. caudatiis), and Amaranthus 
melanchoUcus, with its deep red foliage, deserve a place. 
Nor need the gay Poppy, the pretty pink Hawkweed, the 
unobtrusive Virginian Stock, and many others, be for- 
gotten. 

We must not leave the annuals without a few words 
about Balsams, those pretty delicate plants, the beauty 
and luxuriance of which depend so very much on culture. 
Those who w^ish to have fine balsams, unless they happen 
to possess good seed, should buy the best w^hich can be 
obtained, in order to secure fine double flowers. Sow 
the seed in a good hot-bed, and when the young plants 
are ready to be pricked out prepare some light rich soil 
for their use. The little plants being tliree inches high, 
plant them out singly in small pots. Never let them 
get pot-bound, but" when the roots are sufficiently grown, 
re-pot, using richer earth to fill up every time, and giving 
free air in abundance, and w^ater as required. Nip off 
the buds, and carry on the shifting until the plants are 
in eight, twelve, or sixteen-inch pots, according to the 
size you wdsli to attain. If the plants grow fast, they 
will ^vant re-potting about once a week, and the pots may 



126 



PLOWEES AXD THE FLOWEE GABDEN. 



be plunged in a hot-bed of 75° temperature. When the 
plants are well grown, harden them by degrees, and 
allow the flower buds to grow. The seed should be 
chosen from the finest flowers, and should be from one 
to three years old ; the older (in moderation) the better. 
The plants like plenty of air, light, and water, and the 
slightest wound will destroy them. The flower should 
be large and double, and distinct in marking, like a 
carnation. 

That handsome rich-coloured flower, the Cockscomb, 
may be treated in th^ same way ; and also the pretty 
greenhouse annual, the EJiodanthe Manglesii. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

PEEENNIALS AND BIENNIALS. 

Annuals, with their absence one portion of the year and 
untidiness at another season, we might do without ; and 
even bulbs, with their temporary splendour, could, per- 
haps, be dispensed with, although we should much miss 
their brightness among flowers ; but the ever varying yet 
ever constant beauty of our innumerable perennials, 
handsome in foliage for so large a portion of the year, 
even when their flowers are ofi", we should miss more 
than any other class of plants. With them in abun- 
dance we could manage to cultivate a flower garden 
satisfactorily; without them it would be diflicult indeed 
to maintain for it a home-like face. 

The Hollyhock is useful from its towering noble 
growth, and from the great diversity of its flowers, 
including most colours, in all tints, from good white to 
almost black. It delights in a rich strong soil ; so, 
unless the earth of the garden be of this nature, it is 
best to make a bed where a hollyhock is to be planted, 
two feet every way, of strong loam, enriched with 



PEEENlSnALS : HOLLYHOCKS. 



127 



thoroughly rotted manure, and in this to plant the roots, 
singly, or in threes, after leaving the earth some days to 
settle. When the plants begin to grow well, mulch the roots 
with light manure to protect them from drying winds 
and to strengthen the flower stems. When the weather 
is dry, water liberally once a week, train the stems to 
stakes, tying them very loosely, and just top the flower 
spikes. Cut down the stems as soon as the seed is ripe 
and gathered, fork the ground, leaving the surface rough 
to mellow, and give a dressing of well rotted manure. 
Before frost comes mulch with half decayed manure, 
drawing it up to the roots to keep off frost, and manure 
the surrounding ground. In a damp place, or if the 
soil be too rich, the hollyhock will sometimes be struck 
with sudden disease and die; in this case, renew the 
earth before planting anotlier, and make cuttings of any 
healthy young shoots that can be saved. 

For cuttings take young shoots at the base of the 
flower stems, plant them round the edge of a pot filled 
with moist sandy loam, press the earth close to the 
bottoms of the cuttings, and fill up the holes. Place a 
frame on a gentle hot-bed, and wdthin the frame a layer 
of sawdust five inches thick ; sink the pot in the sawdust 
nearly up to the rim, and give no water, or the cuttings 
will damp off. Keep the frame shaded, and open it a 
little at the back for an hour every morning. In six 
weeks or so they will show if they wull grow, and then 
they may have a little water, given with care, not to wet 
the leaves, ^^^len the roots are grown, pot them off, 
keep them shaded in a cold frame for a fortnight, gradu- 
ally harden them to bear sun, plenty of air, and constant 
moderate w^atering, and they will then be ready to plant 
out, which may be done in the spring or in August. 

Large roots may be taken up after flowering, and 
divided with a knife. Take care that each division has 
plenty of root, and at least one good shoot, and plant 
them in a place which is shady but not overhung, and 
there let them remain until March. 

Save seed from the most double and finest flowers, 
and keep it in a dry place until March. Sow early in 



12S FLOWERS AlsB THE FLOWEE GAEJ)Ey. 



March in gentle heat, m shallow seed pans, and when 
the little plants are large enough to handle, prick them 
out three inches apart, either in a bed of rich earth or 
in large pans. When the weather is fine and settled, 
remove them with plenty of earth to the roots, plant 
them two feet apart in a bed prepared for them, where 
they may remain and flower. When they flower discard 
all that produce single bad-shaped flowers ; cut down, 
name, and mark all that are good, and plant them where 
they are to flower the next year. 

The Campanulas are fine showy hardy plants, which 
are most useful in a garden from the abundance of 
their handsome flowers. Some of them grow very tall, 
and the Campanula jjyrafnidalis (the chimney companion 
of cockney gardeners) may be encouraged to an enor- 
mous size by repeated re-pottiug, preventing its coming 
into flower for two years, and very rich soil. It pro- 
duces its immense quantity of fine blue flowers the 
beginning of summer, and keeps in flower a long time. 
It and all the perennial campanulas are increased 
generally by division of the root, but they may be raised 
from seed, and they like a rich garden soil. 

C. cinesia and C. uniflora are beautiful little campa- 
nulas, which grow quite close to the ground, and are 
covered with their pretty blue flowers during June and 
July. C. carpatica, C- rotundifolia. C. narqanica, and 
many besides, are also of rather low growth, and summer 
flowering. All these make pretty bedding plants, from 
their good-looking foliage and most abundant flowers. 
Campanula medium, the Canterbury Bell, is one of oiu' 
freest blooming biennials, giving to the gardens splendid 
blues of all degrees of intensity, pure masses of white, 
and double flowers, both wdiite and blue. C. speculum, 
Yenuss Looking-glass, has been already mentioned as 
an annual : several other names have been given to this 
pretty flower. 

The campanulas are so pretty that many of them are 
quite worthy of culture in pots, and the roots of all are 
said to be good to eat. 

The Columbine [Aquilegia], from the peculiar form, 



s^'■APDEAGO^^ poxgloye. "wallplotvers. 129 



abundance, and graceful set of the flowers, the variety of 
its colours, and for its pretty foliage, deserves to be 
much more generally cultivated than it is. The seed 
keeps long, should be sown in March, in sandy soil, 
under glass, and the young plants will often flower the 
same year. The Columbines are quite hardy, grow 
from one to two feet high, come into flower in May, 
and flower for a long time. The roots may be divided 
in autumn or spring. 

The Snapdragons (JntirrJiiniim) are hardy, easy to 
cultivate, and have an almost endless variety and 
mixture of colour. They will do in any garden soil if 
not wet, grow about two feet high, or a little more, 
flower in June, and keep in flower all through the 
summer. Good sorts should be propagated by cuttings, 
as seedlings generally vaiw from the parent plant. Great 
variety in colour may be got from s^ed, which should be 
sown in spring : the young plants have the advantage 
tliat they flower the same year. 

The Foxglove is a handsome gi^owing flower, which 
makes a good mass of colour wherever it happens to 
be wanted, and ofl'ers a fine pure white. The seed 
should be sown in the autumn, that the plants may 
flower the next year. Digitalis Canarieiisis is a handsome 
plant from Teneriffe, producing yellow flowers ; it is a 
greenhouse plant. 

The Veronicas are fine showy, hardy plants, producing 
blue, purple, and white flowers in summer. They w411 
grow^ well in any garden soil which is tolerably light 
and moist. They are increased by seed and by division 
of the roots. 

The Wallflower, Cheiranthus cheiri, is gay and very 
hardy, and especially valuable from producing its deli- 
ciously fragi'ant flowers early, and retaining them long. 
A light, rich, sandy soil suits them best. The fine 
double sorts must be propagated by cuttings, under a 
hand-glass, in May or June. The double yellow, double 
blood-red, double purple, and several others, are hand- 
some, but they have not the fragrance of the common 
single sorts. Cheiranthus Alpinus is a pretty little hardy 

K 



130 FLOWEES A^D THE FLO^E GAEDE^'. 



plant, fit to grow in pots, or on rockwork. Clieirantlius 
rnutahilis requires a hot-house. Wallflowers grow veiy 
readily from seed. 

The Cistus. or EockEose, is very pretty, grows freely 
in a mixture of loam and peat, and is easy to increase 
by cuttings, under a hand glass, by layers, or from seed. 
Many kinds, of low gi'owth, do nicely for rockwork, but 
these are only half hardy, and will requne a little pro- 
tection during severe winters. In case some may die it 
is a good plan to take some cuttings of these, and keep 
them in a cold pit. The Gum Cistus grows four feet 
high, and produces its pretty white or spotted flowers 
in June. The purple flowered is another pretty kind, 
of medium height. 

The Hydrangea is a handsome plant, from its bold 
foliage, bushy growth, and large balls of delicate coloured 
flowers of the palest tint of pink or blue. The blue 
flowers are a sport, and when a plant bearing them is 
moved to a new locality it will often fly back to pink. 
Hydrangeas are very handsome and ornamental in pots, 
and out of doors they will stand om- winters in very 
w^arm sheltered spots : but when less favourably placed 
they must be protected. They like moist sheltered 
places, and do not mind the dvip of trees if the situaiion 
be warm. If the roots be protected with manm-e, the 
plants may be cut back to them, and will shoot out 
again and bloom late. They may be propagated at 
almost any time by cuttings of the young side shoots 
two or three inches long, in sandy earth with a Httle 
heat. The old stems strike anywhere, but take more 
time. It is said the loam of Kenwood, Hamp stead 
Heath, Stanmore Heath, the peat of Wimbledon, and 
from some of the bogs near Edinburgh, produce the 
beautiful tender blue flowers, and I have known them 
do well in earth almost entirely composed of leaf-mould. 
Watering with water impregnated with alum, steel- 
filings, sheep-manure, wood-ashes, peat-ashes, nitre, cai'- 
bonate of soda, common salt, and tan, have all been tried 
with more or less success. The plants should be cut 
back when they have done flowering. 

I 
I 



MrarLTTS, HEATHS ; OSWEGO TEA. 131 

The Mimiilus, or Monkey Plant, is a gay flower, either 
for pots, or for planting out in the borders. There are 
many hardy varieties ^Yhich are perennials, and which 
flower abundantly throughout the summer. Any soil 
will do, but a light, rich, moist soil suits them best. 
Roseus, and a very few others, are half hardy, and require 
to be removed into a pit in winter ; but if their seed be 
sown in March they may be used as annuals, and will 
flower well in summer and autumn. A few are annuals. 
The jNIusk Plant is a Mimulus, which dies dow^n in winter, 
and comes up again year after year ; its pleasant scent, 
bright tender green foliage, and pretty yellow flowers, 
render it attractive. This, and all the tribe, w^ant 
abundance of water. The name of Monkey Plant is 
from the form of the seed. The Diplacus is a Mimulus 
of a shrubby grow*th. D. glutinosus has orange, 
v. puniceus, scarlet flowers. All are natives of Cali- 
fornia, and it must be remembered, with regard to all 
plants of that country, that they are easily killed if the 
sun strike on the collar of the root. Propagate by 
cuttings taken w^hen they are getting firm at the base, 
in April. Plant them in sand under a bell glass. 
These plants must have a little protection from frost in 
winter. 

The Heaths are not useful in the garden, but they are 
nice greenhouse or window^ plants, though often disap- 
pointing. In potting, the collar of the root is sometimes 
put too low, which makes it rot. AYater regularly, never 
letting the plants be either sodden or too dry, and never 
subject them to a cold position nor a hot sun. Heaths 
grow well in three parts peat well pulverized, and one 
i part silver sand, and the pots should be w^ell drained. 
I The pots should have no saucers, and should be watered 
twdce a day, over head, in summer, and have plenty of 
air ; in winter, once a day for watering is enough, and 
less air, but a little even in slight frost. 

The Monarda didyma, or Oswego Tea, and Monardas 
1 of other varieties, are rather tall-growing plants, pro- 
I', ducing showy flowers throughout the summer. They 
j] thrive in a rich light soil, and are increased by division 

£2 



132 FLOWEES AFD THE TLOWEE GAEDEK. 



of the root. I have seen somewhere that the Monarda 
didyma produces the scent called bergamot. 

The pretty little Hepaticaes desen^e a place in the 
flower garden, on account of their showing their gay- 
coloured flowers early, while flowers are yet scarce. 
They require a light sandy soil and a shady situation. 
They should be taken up, divided, and replanted every 
second or third autumn, for if the roots rise above ground 
the plants are very likely to die. 

The Garden Rocket, Sesperis metronalis, is a tall-grow- 
ing plant which requires good cultivation to make it 
grow fine. When the plant has done flowering, it should 
be taken up and transplanted into fresh, very rich, light 
friable soil ; the earth from an old celeiy trench is good 
for this purpose, and under this treatment the double 
white and double purple rockets grow to be very fine 
flowers. 

The St. John s Worts, Hypericum, are especially valu- 
able from growing well under the drip of trees ; in fact, 
they prefer moisture and shade, where their rich green 
foliage and bright yellow flow^ers show very well. They 
grow from seed, and may be propagated also by division 
of the roots. 

The Gentiana Jcaulis, or Gentianella, a low-growing 
plant, with blue flow^ers of intense brilliancy, is beautiful 
for a border. It, and all the gentians, require abundance 
of free air ; they will not do in the neighbourhood of Lon- 
don, or any similar locality. They like a light rich soil, 
and do well in a mixture of loam and peat, enriched 
with vegetable mould ; acaulis may be planted in peat 
alone. Some of the gentians are perennials, and may 
be propagated by division of the roots ; and some are 
annuals, which, as well as the perennials, may be raised 
from seed, which must be sown directly it is ripe. The 
root of Gentiana lutea is an intense bitter ; the gentian 
-of the druggists. When grow^n in pots a little heat does 
good. 

The Solidago, or Golden Bod, is quite hardy, with yel- 
low feathery flowers. There are many varieties, which 
are showy tall plants for the back of a border, flowering 



TAEIOrS PERE>'XIALS. 



133 



from summer to late in the autumn. They may be 
increased by division of the roots in spring, and where 
they once grow there is danger of their becoming too 
plentiful. 

The Sweet Scabious, or Widow's Flower, is valuable as 
one of the darkest coloured flowers we have, and it is 
sweet in scent. It is quite hardy, and grows freely 
from seed. There are also some with white and pink 
flowers. 

Saxifrages of different varieties are hardy, of the 
easiest possible culture, and will grow in the neighbour- 
hood of London or almost anywhere else, and in any 
light garden earth, although they prefer a deep sandy 
soil. Saxifraga umhrosa, the pretty delicate London 
Pride, and S. (jranidata, the mountain saxifrage, are 
especially useful for the front of beds. 

The Calla, once called an Arum, will do in the open 
air only in very warm situations, but where it will do it 
makes handsome clumps, being ornamental alike in 
foliage and flower. It likes rich light sandy earth, and 
when in pots frequent watering, and it is increased by 
offsets from the fleshy root. 

The Black Helebore, or Christmas Eose, is pretty, and 
valuable from flowering in winter. It is hardy, will 
gi'ow in a shady place in common soil, and is propa- 
gated by seed, or by division of the plant in spring. 
There are several varieties of the helebore, with flowers 
of different colours. 

Some of the Genistas are hardy enough to do well 
out of doors, and others are pretty in pots for the green- 
house or window. The half-hardy kinds are easily struck 
in sand under a bell glass, and the hai'dier may be grown 
from seed. Common loamy soil suits them. Their 
bright pea- shaped flowers make them very gay. 

The Everlasting Pea, Lathyrus latifoUiis, that vigorous 
growing climber, with its large bunches of gay pink 
flowers, is useful for covering, year after year, an un- 
sightly paling or similar object, and will grow to six or 
eight feet high. Lord Anson's pea, L. Magellanicus, 
another perennial sort, is pretty in foliage and in its 



134 FLOWEES Al^D THE FLOWEE GAEDEN. 



bright blue flowers. The Tangier Pea, L. Tingitanus, is 
a tall-growing annual with purple flowers ; and L. grandi- 
florus, or large-flowered, is also handsome. L. odoratits 
the well-known Sweet Pea, one of our sweetest annuals. 
The annuals are grown from seed sown in spring, in 
common soil, and the perennials are increased by divi- 
sion in spring, or by cuttings of the young shoots, struck 
under a bell glass. 

The Peony and the Moutan, or tree peony, are orna- 
mental both in foliage and in their large brilliant flowers. 
They are of various colours, and interesting varieties 
may be got by crossing. For obtaining new sorts, the 
seed should be sown in September ; some may come up 
the following spring, others the spring after. Common 
peonies may be increased by division of the root ; the 
tree peony by division, by grafting on the roots of the 
other, or l3y cuttings of young shoots taken in spring, 
and struck under a hand glass, with a little heat. It is 
also grown from suckers and layers. The tree peony 
must be protected in winter and spring ; it does well for 
forcing. They flower in the spring. 

The Ohelliscaria yulclierrima is such a gay flower that 
it should have a place in every flower garden, especially 
as a few pennyworth of seed may be bought ; it is hardy, 
and will grow in any garden soil. It grows about two 
feet high, with rich crimson flowers, edged with yellow. 
It flowers in August, and lasts in flower a long time. 

The large and small Periwinkle, Vinca major, and 
F. minor, are especially useful and valuable for covering 
shaded banks, which they greatly ornament with their 
rich green foliage and bright blue flowers. It is well 
that we may use so pretty a plant under the drip of 
trees, where so few things will prosper. The variegated 
foliaged periwinkle is pretty, and it, too, produces 
bright blue flowers in great abundance. These trailing 
plants like a soft moist situation, and increase plenti- 
fully by runners, which strike root at the joints, like 
strawberries. To make the plant produce seed, it must 
be grown in a pot, and not allowed to throw out runners. 
It is an evergreen. In Vinca rosea, the flower is rose 



DAISIES. YIOLETS. PE^^TSTEMOXS. 



135 



coloured, in V. rosea alba it is white, and in F. ocellatd 
it is white, with a red eve. 

Was there ever a child who did not think it the glory of 
his or her life to get a root of double daisy, whether to be 
planted in the juvenile garden, or placed in the nursery 
window, over the crowded thoroughfares of England's 
great metropolis ? Let us, therefore, in memory of our 
early favourites, make room for double daisies — W'hite, 
pink, red, quilled, and hen and chicken. These pretty 
fiowers are more cultivated in other countries than in 
ourSj and Van Houtte, of Ghent, has more than 
twenty varieties in his catalogue. The daisy makes 
better edging than almost any other plant except box. 
To make the roots grow strong, and improve the flower, 
the plants should be taken up and divided every year. 
They thrive in loam, richly manured, and when they 
are replanted the ground should be dug and manured. 
They make good beds in an emergency, and can be re- 
moved to make room for later bloomers when they go 
out of flower. "Wireworms are so fond of them, that 
they are said to leave carnations and pinks and other 
choice flowers to go to them. New sorts are raised 
from seed. 

Violets can scarcely be too abundant in the flower 
garden. The common sweet-scented violet is one of 
the most delightful wild flowers of our country. White 
violets generally grow in chalky land. The Neapolitan 
violets flower in winter, and are \evy sweet. The Eus- 
sian violets also flower in winter ; in a warm sheltered 
spot, these will be in bloom and fragrance from autumn 
to spring. Yiolets out of doors want to be planted 
on a bank (they will not bear stagnant damp), in a 
shady place, in a rich light peaty soil, where they will 
Tiave moisture. x4.shes from the bonfire, or any charred 
articles, make good manure for them. 

CEnotheras of difi'erent varieties, and many other fine 
perennials, took their place as bedding plants before it 
came to the turn of perennials to have their chapter. 

The Pentsternons are nice sho\\y flowers for bed or 
border. Seedlings will flower the year they are raised. 



13G FLOWERS Ayj) THE FLOWEE GARDEN. 



Several of them require in winter the protection of fir 
boughs or moss among the plants, from London north- 
ward, and with such it is best to make sure of saving 
the kind, by making cuttings to keep over the winter, in 
a frame. To propagate, divide the plants in the spring, 
when the growth commences, or take cuttings of the 
young shoots any time in spring, summer, or autumn, 
and strike them under a hand glass, in a mixture of 
sandy loam and leaf-mould. 

There are many other useful perennials well deserving 
attention. The Spiderwort [Tradescantia), with its rich 
purple flowers, golden yellow anthers, and sweet scent, 
the Michaelmas Daisy (that intruder so difficult to keep 
within bounds), the Rose Campion, Feather Grass (Stripa 
pennata), Balm of Gilead, the common Eibbon Grass, 
showy in garden and nosegay, all come in well in help- 
ing to keep up a good variety as to heights of various 
plants for different positions on the borders, time and 
habit of flowering, and colour of the flowers. 



CHAPTER XYII. 

OARDEN ADJUNCTS — THE GREENHOUSE AND THE WINDOW, 

To keep a garden well supplied with plants, and to 
furnish a succession when needed, some facility for 
providing plants to be ready for planting out as they are 
wanted is almost a necessary to the amateur florist. 
Without such convenience it will be late in the season 
before we can have the flower garden in full vigour of 
vegetation and gay with flowers, because our springs are 
often chilly, and our seasons backward, and plants, even 
of the hardy kinds raised in the open borders, will 
necessarily be many weeks behind those which can be 
reared in a greenhouse, in a pit, under a frame on a 
hot-bed, or inside a window of the dwelling-house. In 
most parts of England, too, fuchsias and geraniums, and 



HOUSING PLAN'TS. GEEE>'HOrSES. 



137 



all the vast catalogue of half-hardy plants so necessary 
to till the garden in summer, must be taken up in 
winter, often requiring scarcely any care beyond mere 
iiousing until the settled warmth of spring renders it 
safe to adorn the beds and borders with them again. 

Making young plants from cuttings creates another 
urgent need for indoor storing places, if we want to 
keep the flower garden supplied without great outlay in 
buying fresh plants every season. 

A greenhouse without artificial heat is sufficient for 
most useful purposes, to aid the flower garden by raising 
seedhngs and cuttings of all common, and of most half- 
hai'dy plants, and by keeping a sufficient number of 
plants alive through the winter. Now that glass is so 
much cheaper than it used to be, a little greenhouse 
may be made for very small cost, and agricultural papers 
teem with advertisements, highly illustrated, to set forth 
plans and prices to suit all purchasers. If the green- 
house be so placed as to be entirely for utility, it may 
have a pit in which to make a hot-bed for seed and 
cuttings, or sinking pots requiring heat, or it may be 
fitted only with shelves and stages. The frost should 
be kept out ; the thermometer should never go below 
85^ which it is often difficult to prevent in severe winter 
nights. It would be a superfluous reminder to say oS"^ 
is freezing point. Many plants for which we especially 
want a greenhouse to help the flower garden will bear 
several degrees below that, but any simple contrivance 
of covering the glass, linings of manure, or burning a 
lamp (with the glass shaded], to keep the warmth up to 
85^, will render the aid of the work to be done by the 
greenhouse all the more valuable. It must have good 
light, means of giving plenty of air, and the aspect 
should be south, south-east, or south-west. For keeping 
plants growing the temperature should not get below 
45°. Between the cold of night and the warmth of day, 
sometimes, of course, aided by sunshine, there may be 
a rise from 10'' to 15°. In summer give plenty of air. 

Watering should be done seldom in winter, and early 
in the day, but not too early in the morning. Let the 



138 PLOWERS AKD THE FLOWER GARDENS'. 

temperature of the water be from 5° to 10^ higher than 
the minimum temperature of the house, and give it in 
such a way that it may reach every fibre of the plant's 
root. As to time of watering, do not let the plants die, 
for want is, perhaps, the only rule that can be given ; 
they may not want it above twice a month, and they 
may want it much oftener. 

In the chapter on tools I spoke of frames and hand 
glasses. Hot-beds for using in conjunction with them 
may be heated by means of hot water, but any heating 
medium of this kind, requiring periodical attention at 
all times and in all weather, will be found too trouble- 
some to those who do not keep a regular gardener ; to 
them heat arising from fermentation will be much better. 
The medium may be dung, decaying leaves, or tan in a 
, state of fermentation. As the manure is removed from 
the stable it should be thrown into the pit or in a heap ; 
in a week it will have heated, and must be turned over, 
and the lumps broken and mixed in with the rest. 
Water the mass until it is all equally moist, and in four 
days water again. After a few more days turn it over 
and water it again, and after lying a week more it will 
be about fit for use, but another turn over would do 
good — mixing in leaves, refuse straw, and any garden 
refuse there may be. When the manure is sv/eet for 
use a handful from the centre should have a mushroomy 
smell. The bed may then be made on a spot open to 
plenty of sunshine, and sheltered from strong drying 
winds. In small gardens, where a hot-bed much raised 
would be unsightly, a pit may be dug for the manure, 
and this has the advantage of not letting the bed get so 
dry as it does when entirely raised above ground. The 
dung should be from two to four feet high before it 
settles, according to the bed wanted and the quantity of 
manure at command. The bed for raising tender annuals 
and striking cuttings must be level on the surface, or 
slightly sloping to the south, and six inches of light rich 
earth should be evenly spread over the surface, in which 
the seeds may be sown and the cuttings planted, or the 
seed and cuttings may be in pots plunged in the bed. 



HOT-BEDS A^D PITS, 



139 



For some little time after the bed is made, its heat will 
be too great for vegetation ; four days after making, it 
should be watered, closed up for another heating, and 
watered again before spreading the mould on the sur- 
face. When the bed has been in use some little time, 
and the heat declines, it may be renewed by what gar- 
deners call lining. This lining, by somewhat contrary 
rule, is some heating material packed round outside the 
bed. Fresh manure may be used, and gardeners often 
use for the purpose the cuttings of the lawn : it should 
be laid round the bed eighteen to twenty-four inches 
thick. If the manure of the hot-bed be sunk, a trench 
must be made to sink the lining to equal depth, that the 
heat mav be renewed throughout the whole mass. If a 
second renewal of heat be required, this lining may be 
removed, and a new one put. 

Tan or tanner's bark, as a source of heat, requires 
fi'equent stirring and renewing. \Yhen the bark is 
brou2:ht fresh from the tanvard it mav be lis^htlv thrown 
together under cover, gently moistened, and turned over 
twice a week. About four weeks in warm weather, or 
five in colder, will suffice to make the fermentation 
general and regular. It will keep its heat for several 
months, and when the heat declines (it will do so some- 
times without appai'ent cause) the tan must be sifted, 
the du&i: removed, and fresh tan added. Sometimes 
turning over and wetting the old tan will do. It is well 
to mix old and new tan together to make a new tan bed, 
the quantity of new must depend on its goodness, and 
on the heat required. Two-thirds new and the rest old, 
almost decayed to mould, should produce a bottom heat 
of about 85"". If the old tan used have heat left in it, a 
smaller quantity of new may be added to make a new 
bed, and the heat may be renewed afterwai^ds with much 
less. Forking up will answer the purpose between 
whiles. Five-sevenths of the pit may be filled up with 
the new and old tan in a state of fermentation, and the 
remaining two-sevenths with old tan, without heat, in 
which to sink the pots. 

Some facility for using artificial heat is almost a 



140 FLOWERS AND THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

necessity to avoid the alternative of being very late with 
flowers for the beds and borders, or buying largely, 
which, of course, comes expensive ; but very humble 
appliances in the way of hot-beds may be made to go a 
long way. I have even known a hot-bed, made in a box 
or large pot, do a great deal in raising seedlings and 
striking cuttings. 

A warm south border of rich light earth, to be used as 
a nursery, will be found a most useful accessory to the 
flower garden. This may be used for raising seedlings, 
for pricking out young plants until they are large enough 
to take their place in the beds or borders, and for 
undeveloped flowers to have a place wherein to remain 
until they show the worth or worthlessness of their bloom. 
A border in this nursery with cooler aspect will also be 
found valuable, in which to strike cuttings in the shade. 
A little reserve ground of this kind is often useful to 
resort to for the supply of plants for the flower garden, 
to take the place of any to which accidents may happen, 
and to All up vacancies. 

Another little reserve ground for collecting, mixing, 
and keeping composts, in any out of the way dry corner 
will amply repay the cultivator. Of course it must be 
screened from view, which may easily be managed by a 
hedge of some quick growing plant : it should not be 
too much shaded from sun, and if there can be a tank 
for receiving the draining, that will hold a valuable 
supply of liquid manure. A little bit of ground around 
or by the side of the tool-house will do best, as it will 
keep all the garden appliances handy and together, 
particularly as guano and other fertilizers that wet would 
injure, must be kept under shelter. It will be very 
useful to have reserve stores of composts and manures 
of different strengths and kinds, for valuable plants are 
often sacrificed for want of the proper earth at hand at 
the time of potting or planting. Where the arrange- 
ments are on an extensive scale it has been recom- 
mended to keep all the earths and manures under sheds, 
and dung in watertight tanks, for the purpose of pre- 
serving the liquid portion with it. Where luxuriant 



COMPOSTS. AVINDOWS. 



141 



development of foliage is desired the compost can 
scarcely be too rich in manure, but if flowers and fruit 
be the object, excessively rich earth will defeat that end, 
and the flower buds will pass into leaf buds. Composts 
are made from strong tenacious loam, half-rotten leaf- 
mould, heath soil, horse-manure, cow-manure, charcoal, 
-svood-ashes, bone-dust, sand, turf, scalded moss, and 
other items, and some of them are the better for being 
years old before they are used, as I have mentioned in 
former chapters, especially in that on florists' flowers. 
When the bit of ground is appointed the sooner it can 
be made available and put in commission the better. 
Capital composts, fit for plants of various kinds, have 
been described, and tlie sooner preparation for mixing 
them can be made by laying up turf and other com- 
ponents to rot and mellow% the better the garden w^ork 
^vill henceforth proceed. So many good composts have 
been described when the flowers for which they are fitted 
were spoken of, that it would be superfluous here to say 
more than to recommend the amateur florist to begin 
at 07ice to make reserve heaps of some of the most 
generally useful mixtures. 

If greenhouse, hot-bed, frame, and all appliances of 
the kind be quite beyond reach, although I do not see 
why any one who can, in ;proijria persona or by deputy, 
hold a hammer and saw and use nails, should be without 
a frame, or any one wdth four feet square of earth to 
spare do without a hot-bed (I would rather with a femi- 
nine inefficient hand knock together a frame than do 
without one); garden-pots on window ledges may be 
made to do something towards rearing young plants 
from seed to be ready to plant out earlier than they 
would be if raised in the open ground. To remind us 
what may be done in windows, we need only remember 
that Spitalfields weavers, with the smoke of the heart of 
Jjondon against them, have been auricula and polyanthus 
fanciers. We once took a house in the suburbs of 
London, the half-quarter before Midsummer, the garden 
of which was a bit of virgin ► land, from a pasture of 
centuries standing. We had no greenhouse, no hot-bed, 



142 FLOWEES AKD THE FLOWER GAEDEN. 

no appliances of the kind of any sort, and we wanted 
to see the garden gay and tidy, as soon as it could be 
dug and laid with paths. Our only appliance for rear- 
ing plants from seed was a table for garden pots, placed 
against a window of tolerable aspect, and there we 
reared plants enough to fill the garden ( with the aid of 
a few purchases) by the time it was ready to be planted. 
Elaborate directions on window gardening have been 
written in the Cottage Gardener (now the Journal of 
Horticulture), and elsewhere, and are fully deserving of 
attention; but for making the inside of the window 
available for raising seedlings, striking cuttings, and 
any simple work of the kind, a very few concise hints 
will be sufficient. 

In the first place, if the pots are not new, let them 
be made very clean ; before filling them with mould put 
crocks at the bottom to insure good drainage, and take 
care that the mould for filling them is not sour, clung, 
and poor, but rich, good, and of the quality best suited 
to the plant or seed to be grown. Take care to get first- 
rate seed, and to sow it thinly. It is a great mistake to 
sow seed too thickly, for if plants are ever fine after 
coming up thickly it is quite in spite of circumstances. 
Thinning out can never be done without almost as 
much injury and disturbance of the roots to those which 
are left, as to those which are rem.oved, so that if the 
seed be so sown that the plants wall come up an inch 
apart, and be left so until they grow large enough to 
require transplanting, much time will be saved. Plenty 
of air is indispensable, but the pots must not be allow^ed 
to stand in a draught. If a plant covered with buds be 
left between an open window and an open door the buds 
will fall : this shows how injurious draught is, but by all 
means give the plants abundance of air — the best and 
purest at command. With regard to watering and clean- 
liness, which appertain the one to the other, the water 
used should always be a few degrees warmer than the 
temperature in which the plants live ; the rule for water- 
ing should be to water only when the plants want it, and 
then to w^aterw^ell, and, to cleanse the leaves, set the pots 



GAEDEIT DECOKATIO^s^S. 



143 



out in gentle showers, from time to time, v/ater with a 
fine rose, and syringe over the leaves sometimes. 

Cuttings may often be struck in a less favourable place 
than is required for plants to grow ; many will do well 
if planted in a saucer of silver sand, and placed on the 
mantelpiece in a room with a fire in it, or in any other 
place where they can stand without interference, warm, 
but not exposed to the sun. 



CHAPTEE XVIII. 

GARDEN DECORATIONS. 

EocKWORK is a very favourite decoration for gardens and 
pleasure grounds. Some people may call it a Cockney 
fancy to pretend to bring wild nature into trim gardens, 
by building up stones, and planting ferns, trees, sedums, 
and appropriate vegetation among them, but what matter 
if the owner like it, he may do what he likes with his 
own ; and it might be better for us if we would be con- 
tented to admire all that is good and admirable in our 
neighbour's garden, aye ! and in his character too, with- 
out ultra criticism. Let us admire our choice roses and 
all their gay companions in the border, and let the 
owner of rockwork hold to his stones, with their ferns, 
mosses, and other varied coverings, and each in each 
other's fancies may find many, although different, 
beauties. 

A rock with flat unbroken surface has not a pic- 
turesque appearance ; rockwork should, therefore, be 
broken and uneven on the surface. A good mound of 
earth, rubbish, and brickbats is the best nucleus ; this 
will support the rockwork, and give support to the plants 
grown amongst it. Over this build up rough stones, 
pieces of rock, clinkers, and other substances, according 
to taste, with as varied a surface as possible. If the 



144 TLOWEES AND THE FLO WEE GJLEDEy. 



rockwork be on a large scale deep chasms should be 
managed, for the reception of larger vegetation and 
small trees, and to give repose in masses of shadow. 
When the arrangement of the stones pleases, fill up 
between with rough mortar, except in the case of the 
interstices or pockets, which are wanted for planting, 
mix Roman cement to the consistence of thick paint, 
taking care to mix only a little at a time that it may not 
set more quickly than it can be used, and, by means of 
a large painter s brush, cover the surface of the rock- 
work with it. This will join all into one mass. 

In planting the rockwork care must be taken to put 
in with each root the earth in which it is most likely 
to do well, and be liberal with moss on every bit of 
surface that can be covered with it, as it is valuable in 
retaining moisture. Plants especially adapted for rock- 
work may be bought in almost endless variety, and seed 
of many kinds can be had. The greater variety there 
can be in the plants, in the colours of the flowers and 
the character of the green the better, and there are many 
wild plants that tell well. Our English ferns in endless 
variation, and the hardy exotic ferns, form host enough, 
almost unaided, for a wdiole garden of rockwork. In 
dry summer weather ferns require frequent watering ; 
and if the moss on the surface round the roots die, it 
may be covered with fresh without removing the old. 
When the fronds become dry do not remove them until 
the spring, when the young ones begin to shoot. The 
great variety which there is in the situations that different 
ferns occupy naturally, must be considered when they are 
planted. Some grow on high and exposed rocks, some 
in moist boggy ground, others in banks, under hedges, 
or in woods, while some thrive within the influence of 
the spray of a waterfall. Where trees and water are 
mingled with the rockwork, the habits of all kinds may 
be humoured by a little contrivance. 

Nothing tends more to the varied beauty of a scene 
than water. To make the most of the limpid element 
in pond, rivulet, waterfall fountain, basin, and every 
other form in which it is pressed into the service of man 



TTTILIZIXG WATEE. 



145 



to beautify the pleasure ground, needs much aid from 
the hand of nature, for unless we have high ground and 
low ground, and command of water from the higher 
level, w^e cannot do much. In large towns the water 
companies do for us what nature, or expensive hydraulic 
apparatus, must do in remote country locaUties ; but if 
there chance to be a force pump to the house, an up- 
stairs cistern may be made to help the water service in 
the garden; and an intelligent working plumber can 
easily fix the necessary pipes. A basin or tank for water 
must be properly puddled or cemented by workmen who 
are thorough adepts at the kind of work, for employing 
any one who is not so will only lead to disappointment 
and endless delay. Fountains are turned on or off at 
pleasure, as few reservoirs are so abundantly supplied as 
to admit of their being left always playing. The pipes 
used must be strong and good, or they will not resist the 
pressure ; they should be so fixed as to be safe from frost, 
and placed on a slope, to avoid accumulations of sediment. 
The water of the Emperor fountain at Chatsworth rises 
to a height of 267 feet. The fountain will not rise so 
high as the water in the reservoir by a great deal, on 
account of the resistance of the air at the place where 
it discharges, and of the friction of the pipe. 

Where there is a natural sheet of water at command, 
its pretty effect may be increased by making the planting 
round it appropriate. Weeping Willows always look 
graceful and pretty, and of course do well on the verge 
of a pond or stream : they grow readily from cuttings of 
ripened shoots, planted in a moist soil in autumn. 
iS^ipoleon s Willow, from the willow w4iich grows on the 
grave of the ex-emperor is different from our common 
willow, and of slower growth. The flowering rush, 
Butomus nmbellatus, is a handsome aquatic plant with 
fine heads of pink flowers ; it should be planted or 
sown in the water. If the piece of water, or basin, be 
artificial, it is advisable, after it is made thoroughly 
watertight by puddling with clay, or by cement, to 
spread a layer of loam five inches thick over the bottom 
for the nourishment of the roots which are to grow in 

L 



146 



FLOWEES A^s-D THE ELOWEE GAEDEN. 



it. Most plants -which grow positively in the water are 
best to be planted in wicker baskets of earth ; cover 
the surface of the earth with haybands twisted back- 
wards and forw^ards, and round the plant, and lace it 
down securely with strong twine ; this is to keep in the 
earth and the plant. With the aid of a plank laid across 
the w^ater, lower the plant and its hamper into its 
place. 

The Calla Ethiopica, that pretty large white flower 
which we used years back to call an Arum, is a hardy 
bulb, which will do well in the plain ground in the 
flower garden, if it be well protected from frost in 
winter. Both it and the marsh Calla, Calla palustris, 
are water plants, and will bear our winters with the 
roots under water. They thrive when planted in water, 
from their power of discharging superabundant mois- 
ture from the tips of the leaves. Plant the roots in 
wicker baskets, and sink them wiiere the water is not 
more than three feet deep, as the plants will not flower 
until the leaves are above water, and they would grow 
weak if too tall. 

The Calla is a handsome plant for pot culture, and 
produces its fine white flowers in spring. It is increased 
by offsets from the roots in August or September. Plant 
the offsets singly in little pots well drained, in sandy 
loam mixed with one-fourth leaf-mould, or, well rotted 
manure. Water well w4iile they are growing, and 
scantily after the leaves begin to wither, and afterw^ards 
give only enough to keep the plants alive. Leave the 
Cala plants in the light while the leaves die off, and 
then place them in some shed, in complete repose, 
for about a month. In October or November repot, 
and give plenty of water, especially if they stand in a 
sitting room with a fire. They may stand in saucers 
of water, but the saucers must be emptied every day. 

The beautiful white Water Lily, NympJicsa alia, growls 
best m a muddy bottom, in deep water; its large milk 
white flowers are very fine. 

The Water Violet floats, root and all. It only needs 
to be laid upon the water. The Aponogeton distachyon 



\ 



AQrATIC PLANTS. OE^TAMENTAL BUILDINGS. 147 

is a pretty white-flowered floating aquatic, and although 
it comes from the Cape it is hardy. 

The broad-leaved Cat s-tail, TypJia latifolia, produces its 
large flowers abundantly in shallow water. The three- 
leaved Buckbean, Menyanthes trifoUata, has white flowers, 
and also does in shallow water. Other good water plants 
are Nupliar lutea, the yellow Water Lily, and Nuphar 
advena, from North America, with yellow and red flowers, 
Hottonia palustris^ flesh-coloured flowers, and the Alis- 
mas. That flower of splendid blue, the Water Forget- 
me-not, Myosotis palustris, grows on the margin of the 
water ; where it will grow it should never be left out, on 
account of its brilliant colour. The handsome Spircea, 
of which there are several sorts of great beauty and 
various colours, does well in a moist situation near 
water. 

Buildings of various kinds are used for garden decora- 
tion. Most apropos among them to the subject of the 
last few paragraphs is the bridge, which may look pretty 
and in character if it be useful, but in poor taste if it 
lead nowhere but where any one could go as well without 
its aid. A bridge seems out of place on any piece of 
water which one can easily walk round, but not so if it 
be to cross a rivulet. A mere footbridge of planks, with 
a hand-rail on one side, or on both, is the simplest bridge, 
and if a weeping w^illow, or other graceful growing trees 
be planted near, it makes a pretty feature in the land- 
scape. The more simple such a bridge is left the • 
better, for appearance it does not even need painting. 
If the character of the site be more artificial from high 
cultivation, a more set erection, either of wood, brick, or 
stone, may be more in character, and the approaches may 
be raised so as to lift the bridge higher above the water. 
If the immediate locality have a romantic character, make 
the bridge of unhewn slabs of stone or rock on strong 
supports ; but everything in the shape of a bridge should 
not only be safe, but should look so in breadth, strength^ 
and stability. 

A grotto is appropriate near water, and if the situa- 
tion be warm and sunnv, it is useful as well as orna- 

L 2 



148 PLOWERS XND THE FLOWER GARDE!?'. 



mental, for a cool retreat in hot weather. The ruder 
the rock^Yo^k for the grotto, and the larger in character, 
the better, and the outside should be so concealed as to 
give the idea of an excavation, not of an erection. The 
sides of grottos are generally made of rough stone or 
brick covered with spa, shells, madrepores, corals, &c., 
with a pebble pavement, in a pattern for the floor. Beyond 
everything the roof must be weather tight. Earth 
thrown on the top, if its weight can be borne, and 
planted with periwinkle, ivy, or low evergreens, rather 
hanging forward, looks well, or if the grotto be against 
higher ground the top can be turfed over, so as to give 
the appearance of a grass knoll from behind. For a 
grotto to be of any use it must be in so dry a situation 
as to be quite fit to sit in, and in that case the refresh- 
ing coolness of its shade is welcome in hot weather. 

Moss-houses are simple wooden erections, the insides 
of which are covered with mosses and lichens so as to 
form variations and patterns of different colours. A 
framework for the house may be made with young 
pines or larches, the thinnings of plantations, and 
covered wdth laths nailed over pretty near together. 
Between these laths the mosses and lichens are thrust 
in firmly with a flat bit of wood, or with a turnscrew, 
the root end lowest. The moss should be so arranged 
as to form a varied pattern ; and should quite hide the 
laths. The following kinds offer good variety of colour: 
for a glaucous green, Dicranum glaucum ; yellowish 
green, Bryum liornmn ; a pink tinge, Sphagnum acuti- 
jolium ; yellow white, Sphagnum obtusifolium. There 
are also the tree lichens and the reindeer moss. 

Eoot-houses, made with pieces of roots of trees of 
fantastic shape, and wood houses, made of branches of 
trees with the bark on, and often ornamented with pines 
of different sizes, are pretty and appropriate. For all 
of these roofs of thatch harmonize well with the style of 
the buildings, and they may be made simply arbour 
shape, or more elaborately finished up with doors and 
w^indows. 

Similar in character may be made baskets on lawns, 



SUMMEEHOrSES. SEATS. 



149 



either to enclose beds of gay flowers, or to be filled with 
plants in pots. This looks very pretty, if the pots are 
sunk in wet moss, and covered over the tops with the 
same. A canary creeper, or some such pretty delicate 
foliaged climbing plant, should be led over the handle. 

Summerhouses, of all shapes and sizes, arches, 
arcades, covered ways, garden seats, pretty bits of fence, 
and vases for holding plants in pots, may all be made of 
rough bits of wood or root, and come in useful in 
various positions, especially to avoid monotony in a 
large garden. 

If a garden be large it should have plenty of seats, 
and they should be of such a kind as to be convenient, 
and to avoid being at any rate an eyesore. For the con- 
venience part of the question they should be on a dry 
spot, sheltered from sun at the time of day when shelter 
is most needed, and they should have a board for the 
feet, or an appropriate footrest of some kind. In our 
climate there are not many days when delicate persons 
can with impunity sit with the feet on the bare ground. 
For this reason, too, seats and footrests should not be 
of stone. Turf seats in sunny spots are good for some 
seasons, and veiy pretty. Seats of tasteful form are 
made of cast, wrought, and corrugated iron, wood 
sprinkled with silver sand while the paint is wet, to 
imitate stone, wooden and iron seats with the backs to 
fold down upon the seats to keep them clean and dry 
when not in use, seats of wood and iron moving easily 
on wheels, and in fact seats of every shape, make, 
and material, that fancy can invent, and money purchase. 
When seats are placed along a path a gravelled recess 
should be made to receive them, that they may not stand 
in the way of persons walking in the garden. Wooden 
folding chairs are light and convenient, as are also 
those made of straw, like beehives, and those of cane — 
all these must of course not be exposed to wet. 

Stumps of old trees, partially covered with ivy, and 
with flats and interstices for flowering plants in pots, and 
sprays of creeping plants hanging about them, form 
picturesque ornaments in suitable places. 



150 ELOWEES AKD THE PLOWER GAEDEN. 



Aviaries, too^ where they are good in form, and not too 
prominent, may furnish great amusement, but Uve stock 
of any kind must be well kept, and thoroughly tended, 
to be satisfactory. The same may be said of water fowl 
and of gold or other fish. 

Labyrinths or mazes appertain to bygone times, and 
few gardens are of such ample dimensions that space 
for them could be spared. The pleasure they afford, too, 
is of a somewhat romping nature to suit modern taste. 
If a labyrinth be already made, and have to be kept in 
order, constant care, cutting, and trimming must effect 
that object. 

A fernery under a roof of glass, provided always its 
situation be appropriate, furnishes garden amusement 
under shelter, always valuable in our English climate. 
If its position be warm and sheltered stands of orna- 
mental foliage plants may enhance its beauty and give 
variety. An entry like this to some portion of a house^ 
with a handsome mosaic pavement, may be in good 
taste. 

Now that my list of decorations for the garden is 
surely long enough, I can only conclude with the advice 
that they shall not be introduced too freely. The noble 
bearing of trees, the softening repose of evergreens, the 
gay luxuriance of flowers, these are the best ornaments 
of the flow^er garden, and temples, pagodas, bridges^ 
towering rocks, low piles of stones, grottos and summer 
houses of elaborate construction, should be used 
sparingly, and in the good taste of reservation, or they 
will only make a stiff display of building material, 
more costly than pleasing, and give to a gentleman's 
garden too much the character of a public tea garden. 
The decorations, of whatever kind they may be, to look 
well, should be in character with the house and ground ; 
and above all, to be pleasing, they should not only look 
useful, but he useful, for if a path leading nowhere, a 
bridge to be crossed when w^e could rather more con- 
veniently walk on the plain ground, and similar intro- 
ductions, bring the laugh of our friends against us, we 
have no business to complain. 



I 



OPEEATIOXS IN JAi^UAEY. 



151 



CHAPTER XIX. 

GARDEN OPEEATIONS IN JANUARY. 

When we think of January and the garden together 
we are apt to fly to the conclusion that very little can be 
done then; but when we come to consider all that 
may be done, in connection with all that wants doing, 
to prepare for the superabundance of spring work, which 
will become urgent with the first break in the weather, 
we remember that the first month in the year will not 
be a bit too long to prepare for the eleven which are to 
follow it. 

One job which may most usefully occupy the leisure 
of winter is to set the tool-house m order, putting up 
new shelves, hooks, and nails wherever they are wanted, 
and finding a good and appropriate place for every tool 
and garden appliance. It is a good time too for getting 
all the tools set in order, while those which want mend- 
ing can best be spared. Stores of stakes, shreds, stickf^, 
and all appliances of that kind can be cut, and put aside 
for future use. 

Dahlia roots and all roots of the kind which are put 
by, should be occasionally looked over, to see that they 
are safe from damp, mice, and other enemies. If the 
weather be at all mild for the season snails and slugs 
may be hunted for and destroyed. A few of these 
destroyers killed early will save much killing later, and 
killing is not pleasant work. 

Preparing composts, and setting them ready for future 
use, is one good employment for January leisure. It is 
well at this early season to settle in our own minds the 
flowers which we wish to make our specialities in the 
coming year, and to prepare for them by considering the 
composts which they will require, and laying them up 
ready. It is the more advisable to attend to this thus early 
because cartage now, whenever there is not frost enough 



152 TLOTVEES A>'D THE PLOWEE GAEDE>'. 



to make it difficult, v^ill come cheaper, and be more 
easily attainable than it will be when sjDring shall set 
every cart at work. 

Manure too, for laying up to mellow for future use, 
can often be bought in January cheaper than a month 
later, when almost every owner of a garden gets anxious 
to make a hot-bed. Some of the most valuable com- 
posts ai'e two years in mellowing or more, and no time 
should be lost in setting them to work. A little of the 
winter leisure may be very valuably occupied in turning 
over, and thoroughly mixing the dilferent composts, not 
forgetting in doing so to pick out wireworms, and all 
mischievous grubs most carefully. 

Gravel walks should be rolled, after slight rains and 
after gentle thaws, but in a quick thaw using them 
should be altogether as much avoided as possible, and 
(a word to the wise) before thaw comes completely on 
all drains should be cleared of dead leaves, and placed 
in good working order. Snow should be swept from the 
paths pretty constantly, to prevent its softening them 
completely when thaw comes ; but it may be laid up in 
masses on any spare bit where it can do no haim, as it 
is a valuable fenilizer. To some plants a covering of 
snow is as good a protection as any. 

When thaw after frost makes the earth moderately 
soft, not sappy, it is a good time for levelling inequalities 
on lawns, which should always be cleared away if 
possible, because they are not only detrimental to its 
general appearance, but they are also terribly in the 
w^ay in mowing, whether with a machine or with the 
scythe. The grass may be swept and rolled from time 
to time. 

All the seeds may be looked over, arranging, packing 
up, and writing on those that are good, and throwing 
away diose which have been proved to be bad, or which 
are too old. N.B. — Use mouse-traps whenever they are 
wanted : the killing trap, a row of four to be bought for 
sixpence, I have always found the best. 

As long as winter s utmost rigour kindly holds aloof 
lose no time in planting any trees, shrubs, or plants that 



v. 



JANTJAET. 



153 



are needed, and in finishing all the transplanting, choos- 
ing for the purpose nice mild days. 

If the tree to be planted is from a distance do not 
unpack it, and if it is at hand do not dig it up until the 
hole is ready to receive it, and it will he a good thing if 
the ground be sufficiently moist not to reqmre much 
watering. The best plan is to move trees with great 
balls of earth round the roots, by w^hich means they are 
little disturbed. Another is to trace the roots, and spread 
them out well in the new soil, press them in well, and 
cover carefully. If the tree look badly afterwards, water 
it over the head, weather permitting, but avoid much 
water to the root as too chilling. A little mulching may 
do good in the night in cold weather, throwing the 
manure aside in sunny days, that the earth may get 
warm. When planting out from pots, shake the earth 
a little from the roots, spread them, and give a little 
w^ater, but put dry earth on the surface of the ground. 
If stakes are wanted, put them far enough off not to 
touch the roots, and the protection of branches of ever- 
greens set round may be of service. If some shrub of 
a choice kind appear to do but badly, search carefully 
with a fork for the extremities of the roots, and dig out- 
side of them a trench one foot and a half wide, and fill it 
up with fresh, rich soil, for the roots to spread into when 
growth recommences. 

All bulbs which are showing above ground must be 
protected, according to their kind, as mentioned in their 
respective chapters. Half-hardy trees or shrubs may 
generally be protected by having some light covering 
thrown over the tops, as frost falls from above. This, 
with a little mulching of dead leaves at the roots, and a 
hayband twisted round the trunk, will generally be 
enough. Sawdust, leaf-mould, or old tan, makes a good 
protection for anemones, tulips, hyacinths, and scillas. 
Wherever the beds require a dressing of fresh soil they 
should have it, and this is often more beneficial than 
manure, which, if too abundant, is apt to produce leaves 
rather than flowers. On poor soils, however, give ma- 
nure, but let it be well incorporated with the earth, deep 



154i FLOWEES AND THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

down. Pinks, pansies, polyanthuses, and all plants of a 
like nature, should be looked over, and the loosened 
roots well set in the earth. Before severe frost takes us 
by surprise it will be well to be prepared with good 
simple protection for everything which is likely to be 
killed or injured by it, and we must be especially on our 
guard against sharp frost, which comes unprepared for 
by the protective mantling of snow. 

Plants in pots, put by in windows, unused rooms, 
frames, pits, or any indoor corners^ must have all the 
air and light possible : as long as the weather holds 
off from becoming very severe do not stint giving air in 
abundance, but water with caution. 

Use the mild time industriously in deeply working the 
flower beds wherever there is space enough at Uberty to 
do so with safety to, the plants, &c., which are growing 
in or near them, for depth of soil is most valuable, and 
many flowers will overcome the difficulties of bad 
seasons if they can have the power of choice in pushing 
their roots deep in dry weather. 

To commence preparations for potting, which at most 
times gives plenty of work, get all the pots thoroughly 
well washed, and ranged in sizes, indoors. Pots should 
never be used dirty, but should be clean and smooth 
inside, that the future necessary shifting of the plants 
may be easy. They should be kept dry too, as from 
their porous nature they absorb wet, vv^hich freezing, will 
crack them during the first intense frost, and they should 
be used dry, that the earth may not adhere to them too 
much. Get the earth for potting moderately dry. In 
re-potting it is a good plan to warm the potting earth by 
a stove or a kitchen fire, that it may be a few degrees 
warmer than the ball of earth to the re-potted plant. 
This will encourage the pomts of the rootlets to spread 
into the added new soil. Avoid doing the re-potting in 
a cold place, for plants should have no check at this 
season. When ladies pot their plants they require a 
potting stick to press in the new earth which is given 
outside the old ball. It is a flat stick, smoothed and 
shaped like a stout-made paper-knife. When potting 



JA^'^AET, 



155 



or shifting is required in winter, avoid giving more 
water than is necessary, as doing so would cause a 
chilling evaporation which would be injurious to the 
plant, and water as much as needed before shifting, 
not after. 

To ascertain if the mould is of the right degree of 
moisture for potting, squeeze up a ball of it in the hand, 
and if it just holds together slightly it will do : if it 
forms a lump which can be laid down without its falling 
to pieces it is too wet. 

In potting always place crocks at the bottom of the 
pot one inch deep or more, and generally a little fibry 
loam, moss, or rooty peat over them, then a little earth 
and the plant, and afterwards fill up. Be careful to use 
for each plant the kind of eai'th best suited to it. 

The foliage of plants in the house should be kept 
clean, as well as the ci:tsides of the pots and the saucers. 
The best way to clean the leaves is to wash them very 
gently and carefully with a soft sponge, and water of a 
temperature of 65^ or 70^. With small plants, which 
have small foliage, put a paper tight down over the 
mould, hold it firm with the hand, turn the pot upside 
down, and give the plant a gentle washing in a pan of 
tepid water. Large plants, with minute foliage, must be 
syringed. 

Study the requirements of the flowers which are to be 
specialities, and make the hot-beds which will be wanted. 
Above all things avoid coddling favourite plauts, until 
really severe weather renders it necessaiy to shut out 
frost and give protection. 

These hints, given for January, will many of them 
come into play during all the spring months, especially 
those relating to doing indoor work in bad weather, and 
eailh stirring and other outdoor work whenever there 
is neither frost nor wet. Planting, transplanting, potting, 
and re-potting too, must be done whenever the weather 
and other circumstances render it most advisable all 
through the spring. 

SuMMAEY. — Set tool-house, tools, and all other garden 
appliances thoroughly to rights. Look over bulbs, &c. 



156 FLOWEES AISB THE FLOWEE GAEDEN. 



Prepare and lay up composts. Attend to gravel walks 
and lawns. Look over and arrange the seeds. Plant 
and transplant. Protect when necessary. Clean garden- 
pots, set them in order, and carefully perform the potting 
required. Keep plants in pots clean in the foliage. 
Make hot-beds in good time. Avoid unnecessary 
coddling. 



CHAPTEE XX. 

GARDEN OPERATIONS IN FEBRUARY. 

As this month and the following should see the con- 
clusion of necessary spring attention to the grass of the 
lawns, that subject had better be considered now. Some 
persons like the soft elasticity of a moss-grown lawn, 
and this vegetation has the advantage of growing under 
trees, where grass will not. Some persons, on the con- 
trary, think it quite out of place there, and now is the 
time to eradicate it. Draw up the moss with a rake, 
and clear it away : about two rakings will probably be 
necessary. At the time of doing this, all bare places on 
the lawns, under trees, and in shaded corners, should 
have the surface scratched, and a little good manure 
spread, or manure w^ater given, according to circum- 
stances. In March, the places where the moss and the 
bare spots have been, may be sown with grass seed, and 
have a top dressing of fresh soil, mixed with lime or 
bone dust, and some well rotted manure. Pretty fre- 
quent rolling throughout the year, cutting out daisies, 
and dandelion and other weeds as they make their ap- 
pearance, frequent mowing after the grass takes to growl- 
ing, and clipping the edges from time to time, will 
complete this branch of garden work for the year. 

There are a few more jobs to occupy days when no 
out-of-door work can be done throughout the spring 



FEEEUAHT. 



157 



months. Set in order the garden account book, arrange 
all the lists of roses and other choice flowers and plants, 
settle what must be sought for and bought to complete 
the stocks of particular kinds of plants, and make out 
lists of seeds to be purchased, or otherwise obtained. 
Make plans of the beds of the flower garden, and settle 
how they are to. be filled, preparatory to arranging the 
stock of cuttings, bedding plants, and annuals : head 
work now will save lots of hard work hereafter, and work 
for the pocket also. Cut, shape, and smooth plenty of 
tallies, and put them by in a safe and usual place, for 
little will be gained if they are either put away where 
they cannot afterwards be found, or left about to get 
lost. Let some be of a sort to set in the ground, and 
others furnished with a hole and twine or w4re, for 
fastening them to trees and plants. It is a good plan 
for security against loss of names to have numbers cut 
in the tallies, and to keep the lists of plants agreeing 
thereto in a book. Any covers for protection {see p. 18) 
that can be made on Avet days, are pretty sure to come 
into use very soon. Eustic stands, seats and baskets, 
can be repaired, and any carpentry job wanted, attended 
to. Prepare a lot of crocks for potting. 

Carry on potting to the full extent of the space at 
command for keeping the plants where they will be safe 
from frust, and not too much crowded to do well. Any 
plants from which early cuttings will be wanted should 
be forwarded now as much as opportunity and their 
healthy development admit, remembering not to force 
too much, as run shoots for cuttings will not make 
strong plants. 

If many annuals are wanted, the hot-bed or hot-beds 
made last month will now be found useful in rearing 
hardy and half-hardy varieties. For hardy annuals, 
plain loam will produce sturdier and better blooming 
plants than a more manured soil ; and if they are 
raised on bottom, heat, they should be removed from 
\t as soon as they are above an inch high. Hardy 
jinnuals may be sown in the open borders towards the 
end of the month, if the weather be free from intense 



15S 



PLOWEES A^'D THE FLOWEE GAEDEX. 



frost, and, even if it continue a little shai^, seed may be 
sown, on a warm sheltered border, and protected, giving 
air whenever it is feasible. The object to be kept in 
view is, to get a very sufficient supply of strong plants 
to put out a little later in the year, and to flower early. 
Autumn sown annuals, which have stood the winter so 
far, may have a dressing of soot and ashes for the good 
of the slugs, and protection, if necessary. 

A small frame, wdth sashes, merely placed on a raised 
bed, not on a hot-bed, and half-filled with cinder ash, will 
be found most useful in giving just enough protection 
to plants which are coming forward for turning out. 
Before placing the pots in it water the cinder ashes 
wxll wdth thoroughly boiling water, to destroy the 
insects. 

Cuttings for bedding plants may be put in whenever 
they can be got, and safe room can be spared for them, 
for if a set flower garden is contemplated, a great many 
will be wanted. Cuttings wdiich are growing w^ell may, 
perhaps, be removed from the place w'here they have 
grown to a cooler, to make room for fresh set cuttings. 
Give choice Dahlias heat, to start the shoots for making 
cuttings. 

Prepare for slugs and snails with a top dressing of 
soot and ashes wherever plants grow wdiich are their 
especial favourites, and try to catch the mice in traps 
before the crocus-roots and other bulbs fall a sacrifice. 

Look w^ell through your lists of plants to see what 
seeds should be sown, indoors or out, this month, 
especially remembering Stocks, Larkspurs, and all use- 
fully showy plants. 

Consider the requirements of Hyacinths, Tulips, 
Carnations, Roses, Auriculas, and all choice flowers, 
and give them the protection, dressing, fumigation, 
pruning, and other treatment they stand in need of. 
The exact time for all this depends so much on the 
weather, that the work of two seasons, the same month, 
can scarcely ever be alike ; so the best plan, with 
regard to favourite flowers, is not to depend, on the 
month's instructions as to their treatment, but to look 



MAECH. 



159 



back to their chapter. This has especial reference to 
florists* flowers. 

Summary. — Clean lawns, and get them into per- 
fect order. Find indoor jobs for bad weather. Con- 
tinue the potting. Prepare for early cuttings. Eaise 
annuals. Provide a cool frame for them. Make cuttings. 
Catch vermin. See after choice flow^ers, and give requi- 
site cai'e. 



CHAPTER XXL 

GARDEN OPERATIONS IN MARCH. 

Now, in the garden, the mirth and fun grow fast and 
furious." Not an hour of fine w^eather and daylight 
must be lost. The borders under screens and shrub- 
beries must be thoroughly set to rights, forking the 
ground and putting in manure about all trees and 
shrubs that love rich earth, as deep as it can be put with 
certainty of not interfering with any roots. Trees and 
shrubs should be thinned out, so as to leave room for a 
free handsome growth for all which remain, taking, of 
course, the poorest in kind and handsome grow^th, and 
leaving the best. Any wiiich seem dead must on no 
account be interfered wdth thus early. There must be 
no delay now in completing all the planting and trans- 
planting w^hich has accidentally or carelessly been left 
thus late. The sooner in the month the shrubberies 
can be set thoroughly in order the better. 

I intended to have done with the lawns last month, 
but I must return to them to give a short extract from 
that useful periodical the Journal of Hordciilture, on the 
Idnd and weight of grass seed for sowing lawns. The 
quantity named is for an acre, but any one remembering 
that one acre contains 4,840 square yards can divide the 
quantity to suit his own lawn. "For light soil the mix- 



160 



TLOWERS AI^D THE FLOWEK GARDEN. 



ture should be Festuca tenuifolia, two pecks ; Poa pra- 
tensis, two pecks ; Anthoxanthum odoratum, three pecks ; 
Loliian perenne tenue, two pecks; Agrostis stolonifera, 
two pecks; white Dutch clover, one peck. For strong 
heavy soils the mixture should be, Foa trivialis, two 
pecks ; Festuca duriuscula, two pecks ; Fescula ovina, two 
pecks; Anthoxanthum odoratum, two pecks; Cynosurus 
cristatus, two pecks; Alopecurus pratensis, two pecks; 
white Dutch clover, one peck. EoU the lawn regularly ; 
sometimes with a very heavy roller." 

All the flower beds and borders should be forked and 
regularly set in order. Wherever there is space for it 
to be done without mischief to growing plants, shrubs, 
or trees, let it be deeply worked, putting in leaf-mould 
deep down, for a deep soil in a garden is alw^ays good. 
Where beds stocked with perennials and roots of all kinds 
render deep working dangerous, fork the surface, finely 
pulverizing the mould, and taking care not to destroy. 
Gardeners' careless forking and digging often destroy 
plants which less careless owners find it very difficult to 
replace ; and when a valued plant, or group of bulbs, 
has disappeared, the only explanation to be got, " I dug 
over the place, and I am sure I never saw it," gives very 
poor satisfaction. As the flower beds are forked over, have 
a mental eye to their future planting, and a bodil}^ one to 
their present requirements, and as you progress put in 
the compost and the manure most likely to produce 
a good result for the coming floral season. 

March winds are strong ; none will deny that. After 
gusty days and nights it will be advisable to look over 
trained climbers and beds of choice flowers, and put in 
order whatever has been disarranged, especially taking 
care to fix and steady half-uprooted plants. V/here 
winter wet has rotted stakes and ties they should be 
renewed. 

Box and other edgings should be replanted and set in 
order, all the garden reduced to perfect neatness, and 
if any alterations in the planting be desired let it be 
done at once, for we may now expect the growing season 
to come upon us without loss of time, and when growth 



MAECH. 



161 



commences removals will be much less advantageous. 
This has reference to many miles round London, and 
similar localities. In Dorsetshire, beautiful Devonshire, 
west of that, and ii^the mild Channel Islands, work in 
the gardens will be more forward. 

Continue to make cuttings, and to pot off growing 
cuttings, removing the well-established plants to cooler 
places, to make room for the new ones. Geraniums, Cal- 
ceolarias, and Verbenas will strike readily now on a nicely 
made hot-bed. Those who wish to use many bedding 
plants in their garden ought at this time to have a large 
supply on hand, from fine cuttings made in the autumn, 
to be continually reinforced, this month, by fresh-made 
cuttings. 

Hardy annuals, which were sown in February, should 
be hardened off for planting out. Some Sweet Peas may 
be sown very thinly in pots, and raised in a gentle hot- 
bed. Some may also be sown in the open borders, and 
if, when those which are a little forced come forward, one 
pot of the forced peas is planted close against a clump 
of those grown in the natural ground, the two will make 
a fine clump which will come forward early, and last in 
flower a long time. Prick out the plants of ten week 
Stocks, and any similar seedlings in hand, and so\vmore 
seed for a succession. 

This month there may be a general sowing of hardy 
annuals in the borders, and also seeds of good peren- 
nials and biennials without stint. In fact, abundant 
provision of plants of all kinds must be made, and all 
our lists looked over and books consulted, to see that 
we forget nothing which we shall have reason to wish 
for wdien we come to plant out finally, for every fine 
week lost now will be doubly missed later in the 
year. 

Half-hardy annuals may be sow^n in a hot-bed, and 
when the seedlings are an inch or two tall they may be 
transplanted into another hot-bed, or planted out in pots 
to remain until i\Iay, when they may be planted out in 
the borders. Tender or greenhouse annuals may also 
be sown in a hot-bed, pricked out into another, and 

M 



162 



FLOWEES A^'D THE FLOWEE GAEDEIf. 



afterwards placed in a greenhouse. There are, how- 
ever, many which, if planted out in w^arm borders in 
June, will flower freely, and even ripen seed. 

Make another hot-bed, early in March, to be ready for 
next month. 

Su:mmaey. — Set the shrubberies fully in order. 
Sow grass seed. Set all the flower beds in order. 
Make climbers and flower roots firm after rough weather. 
Attend to box and other edgings. Continue to make 
cuttings. Prick out annuals and sow more. Sow seed 
of perennials and biennials. Sow also half-hardy and 
hardy annuals. Make another hot-bed. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

GARDEN OPERATIONS IN APRIL 

The important work of making cuttings reqmres a few 
more detailed remarks, which will apply more or less 
to all the period during which they are made. Cuttings 
have the advantage of perpetuating the old plant, 
whereas seedlings may vary h^om it in appearance or 
character. 

In quick-growing soft-wooded plants, take as cuttings 
young shoots or tops of the plants. Such are Anagallis, 
Antirrhinums, Calceolarias, Carnations^, Chrysanthe- 
mums, Dahlias, Pinks, Wallflowers (only the double ones 
are worth growing from cuttings), Gorterias, Gaillardias, 
the low-growing Lobelias, Fuchsias, Geraniums, Petu- 
nias, Pentstemons, Sah^ias and Verbenas. Pots of all 
these will do in a frame, on a very gentle hot-bed, made 
of dead leaves, manure, or tan, or in a more artistically 
heated house : Geraniimis and Fuchsias almost any- 
w^here. 

The cuttings of some plants should be the partially 
ripened w^ood. Such are Camelias, Cape Pelargoniums, 
Coniferae, Erythrina, Echites, Gardenias, Gordonias 
(somxcthing like Camelias), Magnolias, Oleanders, and 
many others. 



APEIL. 



163 



Many plants may be propagated by cuttmgs of leaves 
with a bud at the base. Cinerarias, the tail Lobelias, 
Statices, and most herbaceous plants, are increased by 
offshoots from the base of the parent plants. Some 
plants do best from cuttings of the roots, and the 
Eockets, Lychnis, and such like, by cuttings of the 
flower stems. Cuttings of hollo^Y-stemmed plants should 
be cut at a joint. 

The leaves should be removed from the part of the 
cutting which is to go in the earth, and generally some 
at the top removed and cut, to reduce evaporation. For 
the same reason, to reduce evaporation, they are covered 
with a bell glass, and shaded. Shade is, however, a 
necessary evil, tending to weaken and enervate, and to 
make them shoot upwards instead of root downwards. 
Give as little shade as possible. 

If pots and pans are at all scarce, as they are in most 
establishments at this season, cuttings will do in just 
anything that will hold earth. The children picked up 
on the sands one day a worn-uut tin baking dish, with 
holes in it, and begged that it might not be thrown 
away as they were " sure it would come in handy." Now 
it, and other things about as incongruous, arefulL For 
striking the cuttings use light sandy soil, with good 
drainage. A little heath-soil or leaf-mould may be 
added, great care being taken that the last is thorough 
mould ; for if any rotten leaves remain in it they will 
cause damp and mouldiness. Do not take cuttings until 
the parent plants have begun to make their spring 
growth, and then try to make the cuttings continue that 
growth without interruption. To effect this do not w^et 
the cuttings, nor let them flag. As soon as they are 
planted tak:e them at once to the place prepared for 
them, where they may have a little more heat than they 
had before they were cut, moist atmosphere, a little air 
at night (weather permitting), and as much light as they 
will bear without flagging. If they flag at all they must 
have shade, or a taste from the syringe. 

Kecently planted or transplanted trees should have 
their w^elfare cared for. If the weather turn v^oxm and 

:m 2 



164 



FLOWEES AND THE FLOWER GAEDEIT. 



dry, a little sprinkling over head with the water engine 
will do good, with less danger of giving a chill than 
watering the roots. A hayband wound round the 
stems, and a little hay scattered about the roots will 
prevent injuriously chilling evaporation. Wherever the 
roots seem shaken by the wind make the earth firm 
round them, and look to the stakes. 

Continue to sow plenty of hardy annuals if the re- 
quirements of the garden will need them, and if the 
weather should become mild a good many may now be 
sown out of doors. If the season be late look over the 
chapters on past months, and finish up work which may 
have been rendered impracticable then by severe frost 
or other hindrances. In forking over the flower beds 
and borders take especial care not to destroy any fine 
little self-sown plants ; for nature, which has led them 
on so far, will often produce in them finer plants and 
better bloom than we can get in those which we rear 
with greater pains. 

The hot-bed made last month may, when ready, be 
brought into use, by being filled with tender annuals, such 
as French and African Marigolds, Asters, Zinnias Nolanas, 
Canary Creepers, Morandyas, Lophospermums, &c. 

Much planting out, and pricking out into the open 
borders can scarcely be depended on in our climate 
with safety yet, so if the indoor accommodation get over 
crowded, and turning out become necessary, protection 
must be provided. We need scarcely fear worse weather 
in April than a simple pit or frame will provide for, if 
it have a cover of calico, stretched on a wooden frame, to 
put on at night. Frigi domo has been much used and 
recommended, but white calico has the advantage of 
letting through more light. 

The early flowering bulbs will now be getting into 
full beauty, and the garden will be gay with all the 
early flowers, which in planting should never be left out, 
for when do we feel so greedy after flowers as we do 
when we have lost sight of them for months ? 

As the weather gets mild take care that indoor 
plants do not get too much warmth, watch for greenflies 



MAT 



165 



and other insects, and destroy as they appear with 
fumigation, washing, and hand picking. Too mucli 
warmth and plenty of insects go hand in hand. Watch 
for aphides on indoor roses. 

Summary. — Continue to make cuttings. See to the 
roots of planted and transplanted trees, and water if 
necessary. Sow plenty of hardy annuals, and the more 
tender sorts in a hot-bed. Plant out and prick out, 
where protection can be given. As the w^eather gets 
mild keep too much warmth from plants indoors, and 
look after insects. 



CHAPTER XXIII 

GARDEN OPERATIONS IN MAY. 

In May planting out may go on with spirit, for even in 
our late springs, frost scarcely ventures into the flowery 
month." Mignonette should be sown in full tufts, 
Vvdiich will come in nicely, as those raised indoors and 
planted out, and the self-sown plants, sure to come fine 
and early, get a little passe. 

All the showeiy or damp weather must be made the 
most of for planting out the hardier kinds of choice 
bedding plants, such as Calceolarias, Verbenas, Scarlet 
Geraniums and such like, leaving Heliotropes, Petunias, 
Anagallis, Nierembergia, aud all that may be hurt^by 
very slight night frosts, until the end of the month. It 
is better to _be rather late in planting out, than to run 
risk from late frosts, provided the plants, when they are 
put out, are moved with care to take a large undisturbed 
ball of earth with each root. 

It is very well worth while to make and have ready in 
May a slight hot-bed for the cuttings to have all to them- 
selves, and it can be done with very little trouble. 
Place a foot and a half thickness of stable litter, lay on 
nine inches of decaying leaves, and tread them down 
well; then add two inches thickness of w^ell decayed 
' leaves, and after that two or three inches of sandy loam 
and leaf-mould mixed. Beat the surface smooth, water 
it with warm water, and finish it with a layer of silver 



166 



PLOWEES AIND THE ELOWER GAEDEN. 



sand. Cuttings will strike quickly in this, and it will be 
found very useful. 

Dahlias and many other tender roots and plants may 
be turned out this month, when once there is safety 
from more frost. Look through the chapters about 
favourite florists' flowers, as they will want plenty of 
work bestowed upon them throughout the spring 
months. Shrubbery walks, and the beds under the 
shrubs may be finished off with final neat arrangement 
and planting, and sowing seed of hardy, quick growing 
annuals, wherever gay patches of bright colour are 
wanted. 

As groups of annuals grow, care must be taken that 
they are not so thick as to crowd each other or they will 
never be fine, either in the plants or in the flower. 
Plants which are growing tall enough to need it, should 
have good stakes. 

All the litter that has been used about the garden for 
giving early protection will scarcely be wanted longer, 
and it may as well be turned to account for helping to 
make yet one more gentle hot-bed, w^hich will be sure to 
come in handy for some purpose or other. 

Plants which are in luxuriant growth, and are bloom- 
ing very abundantly, may have a little manure water if 
they are of kinds w^hich require rich nourishment. 

SuMMAEY. — Follow up planting out throughout the 
month. Plant cuttings in a gentle hot-bed made on 
purpose. Plant Dahlias, sow annuals, finish up all 
arrangements in the shrubbery, &c., and look after the 
requirements of the florists' flowers. Thin groups of 
annuals. Use spare litter. Give a little liquid manure 
to plants in very full growth. 



CHAPTEK XXIV. 

GAEDEN OPEEATIONS IN JUNE. 

As early this month as possible all the planting out 
should be completed, and all the planted out will for 



167 



some little time after require constant watching and 
careful attention. Of course some failures will occur, 
even under the most favourable circumstances. It is 
well, therefore, to make provision by having a few plants 
in reserve in the nursery. A garden of even very 
moderate size should have a small piece set aside as a 
nursery, to be kept stocked with a few fine plants, to 
be always ready to fill up vacancies, wherever they may 
occur. Trained plants, on walls and trellises, should be 
gone over carefully, training and tying whenever neces- 
sary. 

The early flowering bulbs will be very much in the 
way, as we want to arrange and plant the garden finally 
for the year, but we must on no account sacrifice the 
roots by cutting off the leaves too soon of those which 
would be injured by such precipitance. Many may, 
however, be taken up carefully with large unbroken 
masses of earth, and planted in any out-of-the-way 
corner to die off at their leisure. Other roots which 
have lost their beauty for the season, may many of 
them be transplanted, with great care, in damp weather. 

In clearing off stocks of cuttings, seedlings, and 
young plants of all kinds by planting out, it is a good 
way to pot a few fine ones of each kind, and to range 
them on beds of ashes (to keep off insects) in the 
nursery, or any place where they will be ornamental 
rather than the contrary. They will require little 
attention beyond watering in dry weather, and they are 
pretty sure to come in handy at a future time. If they 
should happen not to be wanted for filling up vacancies 
in the garden, the greenhouse, in boxes or vases, or 
anywhere else where deaths or failures may make 
vacancies, how very few people there are in flower- 
loving England to whom a pretty flower in a pot is not 
an acceptable present; and how many persons there are 
owning small gardens to whom a nice plant is at any 
time most welcome ! 

Where the present gaiety of the garden will admit of 
losing some flow^ers, a great many plants may be en- 
couraged to grow very fine by nipping off the flower 



168 FLOWEES AIS'D THE PLOWEE GAEDEN. 



buds. Some groups may be induced to remain longer 
in bloom, by serving some of the plants only in this 
way. 

Unless we get very nice showery weather all the time 
the planting out is going forward, watering is a laborious 
item of the garden work, for until the young plants 
take to the ground they would die without this necessary 
evil. The water should be taken from an open tank, 
where from exposure to the air it will not be below its 
temperature. For delicate plants in chilly weather it 
should be a few degrees above it. The collars of plants 
should not be wetted, but the water so bestowed as to 
be taken up by the extremities of the roots ; a little 
sprinkling overhead with a fine rose refreshes them. 
When liquid manure is given take care that it is not too 
strong, and give it to no plants but such as are in active 
growth. AYhen they are in full vigour of growth, and 
in danger of exhausting themselves with abundant 
flowering, the manure water may be given, good and 
without stint. Put it in at a little distance from the 
roots, so that the rootlets may take it up. Hydrangeas, 
Balsams, Cockscombs, Chrysanthemums, and such like 
plants of a vigorous growth will benefit by manure 
w^ater. Do not give it to Heaths and similar hair-rooted 
plants. Never humour plants with constantly repeated 
drops of water: if they get into the habit of wanting 
constant watering they will never do without it. On 
the contrary, do not w'ater unless it is necessary, and 
then give a good soaking twice a-\veek, and do not 
forget the advantage of mulching the roots. As soon 
as plants approach the season of rest, wliich varies in 
different kinds, of course the watering must be reduced 
— almost discontinued — as many times already stated. 

Mulching, it may not be superfluous to state, is laying 
straw, litter, or manure round the stem of a plant or 
tree, and over its roots. In winter it is valuable as a 
protection to Magnolias, Camelias, and all tender trees 
and plants, and in summer it may be used sometimes to 
prevent deaths from excessive drought, by keeping in 
the moisture. It also gives nourishment to the roots 



JULY. 



169 



below by gi-adual percolation. ^Mien it is no longer 
needed on the surface of the ground it is generally 
forked in as manure. Being rather untidy in appear- 
ance it is not much used in the flo\^^er garden, although 
its benefit is often great. 

Let any digging that yet remains be done on warm, 
sunny days, as turning in the hot surface does the earth 
great good : this is the opinion of a fii^t-rat^ j^^g^ iri 
horticulture. 

Cinerarias w'hich have bloomed in pots may be 
placed out on a north border, worked and raked fine 
and smooth, and the self-sown seed will produce fine 
young plants. Some seed of fine kinds may be sown 
in pans, to produce plants to bloom early. Some plants 
may be planted out on a north border, and if a few of 
them are cut down and well watered they will throw 
up suckers, which can afterwards be separated from 
them. In these chapters on the work of each month 
I have tried to avoid repeating the instructions already 
given in treating of the choicer flowers in former 
chapters — to those chapters I must, therefore, refer the 
reader for much monthly work to be done among them 
as regards their treatment and propagation. 

Young Conifers planted out on lawns should be 
watered most abundantly, to encourage them to make 
their giowth. 

Gross shoots on ehoice free-gKowing roses m-ay be 
pinched off at about the third eye, to stop their 
keeping all the growth to themselves to the detriment 
of the general growth of the plant. 

An excellent writer in the Journal of Horticulture 
recommends the following treatment of leafy plants 
when flrst planted out, and I have no doubt of its 
goodness. On the flrst day he w^aters just enough to 
moisten the roots twice during the day, and syringes 
over the whole plants, scattering the drops like dew, or 
like a very gentle misty shower. The second day he 
syringes three or four times, if the sun is bright; he 
prevents evaporation from the leaves by giving moisture 
on them to evaporate, and by the third day they hold up 



170 FLOWEES A^D THE PLOWEB GAEDE^^ 



their heads and want little more. This answers, too, on 
large beds, as a few strokes of an engine scatter water 
enough far and near, and the moisture which falls on 
the ground rises again in refreshing mist. 

As the flowers planted out begin to grow freely, if 
you wish to cover a surface attend regularly to pegging 
down, while the young shoots are yet pliant and tender. 
But in the old English flower garden, where flowers of 
all colours and all heights cover the beds and borders 
in gay variety, the kind of garden in which I most 
delight, so fit for the culture of stable, good perennials, 
choice roses, fine shrubs and trees, and all the lasting 
things that make our garden like our older and most 
valued friends, always the same in solid goodness 
though varying in surface from year to year, pegging 
down also comes most convenient in giving us good 
masses of one colour or one flower wherever we most 
want it. 

As the rampant growth of summer begins, keeping 
order among flowers and weeds will want constant 
watchfulness and give pretty constant work. Box-edgings 
should be clipped in showery weather. 

All the tender annuals may be planted out this month, 
and plenty of Cupheas and other plants which will 
come out nice and showy in the autumn. 

Su:M:d:AKY. — Finish the planting out, making up a 
reserve for filling up the place of any that may fail. 
Where practicable^ remove bulbs, &c., to make more 
room. In clearing off stocks of plants, reserve some in 
pots, in case of needing them. Where convenient, nip 
off flower buds to make plants grow large. Study the 
best way of giving water and manm-e water. Mulching. 
Dig and stir the earth in waim weather. Attend to 
Cineraries, and all other choice flowers. W^ater young 
Conifers abundantly. Attend to Eose trees. Syringe 
leafy plants when they are planted out. Peg down, and 
attend to neatness in growth and weed constantly. 
Plant out tender annuals and plenty of plants to be 
showy in autumn. 



JULY. 



171 



CHAPTER XXV, 

GARDEN OPERATIONS IN JULY. 

Garden work is a rotation which scarcely ceases the 
year round. As we begin to reckon that getting through 
all the planting out, and full an^angement of the beds 
and borders will give a little leisure, the growing season 
brings on weeds apace, and rampant gi^owth in vege- 
tation makes constant watchfulness, pegging, training, 
chpping, staking and tying necessary. Insects, too, 
increase apace as soon as the restraining hand of winter 
is removed, and all these things give work in abun- 
dance, and will do until frost shall again put vegetation, 
and its devourers, in the dormant stage. 

Flowers in vases, and such like decorations, should 
have the earth stirred, manured on the surface, and 
covered with moss, to prevent evaporation, and the 
necessity for constant watering ; vacancies in them, and 
spare corners may yet be filled up to make the general 
effect good, and pretty trailing plants should be led 
over the edges, to do away with the stiff look which 
stucco so often wears. Good foliage, and plenty of 
flowers, are both necessary to keep up their good looks 
throughout the summer. 

Trees cut to fantastic shapes should be cut this 
month. The fittest for the purpose are, yews, cypresses, 
bays, arbor vitces, box trees, and Portugal laurels. They 
must be clipped in again from time to time. In- ^ 
dustriously remove suckers from roses, and clear off all 
the wild shoots from the stems of standards. Many 
florists' flowers will require especial attention in culture 
and propagation. 

Eoses are now showing pretty plainly whether they 
have the soil they like. No watering will keep those 
on light and poorish earth in fine order, whereas a 
little sand and plenty of manure will, to a great extent, 
overcome the difficulties on stronger land. 

If the beds are likely to suffer from drought, the 
surface may with advantage be mulched with a mixture 



172 FLOWEES AKD THE FLOWEE GAEDE^^ 



of leaf-mould, and the manure of an old mushroom 
bed passed through a coarse riddle. A sprinkling of 
soot and lime will trouble injurious insects. Moss and 
cocoa-nut fibre also make good materials for mulching. 
The especial benefit of this mulching the surface of the 
borders is, that it tends to produce roots near the 
surface, and bloom, whereas manure deeper down makes 
the plants run to luxuriant foliage at the expense of 
flower. Cocoa-nut fibre and moss both make a nice 
looking surface. 

Liquid manure may be given to free-growing Eoses, 
to bedding plants, and other flowers, on the beds in 
which it is advisable to promote freer growth. Where 
mildew show^s itself water the spot where it appears, 
and sprinkle sulphur over it. 

Cuttings of herbaceous plants may be struck under a 
glass on a north border. Choose the small shoots 
which are without bloom. 

As the season gets on, general tidying in the garden 
gives plenty of work, and all the climbing trees must 
have regular attention in necessary pruning and train- 
ing, keeping under the too rampant growth of the most 
luxuriant among them. The garden should be gone 
over regularly at least once a week, to place stakes and 
sticks w^herever they are needed, prune back rampant 
growth wherever it appears, cut off dead flowers and 
withered sprays, stir the earth and keep it light and 
neat, and weed incessantly eveiywhere. The weeds on 
the paths alone want constant attention, especially after 
every little spell of wet weather. Weeds on the lawn, 
too, require constant cutting up, with care not to make, 
in doing it, unsightly bare places in the grass. The 
flow^er beds, too, the shrubberies, and all parts of the 
garden, require regular careful hand- weeding, or chop- 
ping over with the hoe, according to how they are 
planted. Pay esjDecial attention to any weeds which 
seem likely to go to seed. Weeds should not be 
allowed to show themselves in a garden, much more 
their progeny. 

In making dwarf Chrysanthemum plants, as men- 
tioned in Chapter X., if there seems a difficulty in getting 



AUGUST. 



173 



them to root run a sharp knife along the middle of the 
stem to be layered for about two inches, and set the cut 
open with a small sphnter of wood. Tongueing with 
a Chrysanthemum does not do ; but this plan of laying 
the stem open often makes it root. 

As a too crowded growth interferes with beauty, sub- 
due the rampant growth of large things by cutting them 
away, thinning them out, or removing some where they 
grow too close together. This refers to this and the 
following months. 

Summary. — Attend to flowers in vases. Where de- 
sired, clip trees to set form. Take off Rose suckers, and 
attend to Roses and other choice flowers. Mulch, give 
liquid manure. 'Make cuttings. Attend to climbers. 
Attend to general tidying. Weed regularly. Dwarf 
Chrysanthemum plants. Set crowded beds in order. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

GARDEN OPERATIONS IN AUGUST. 

Insects are of all months of the year, but they are espe- 
cially destructive in warm weather. With the very first 
warmth Aphides, in shoals and nations, show their un- 
welcome presence on our roses, geraniums, and almost 
all choice plants. A drying east wind makes them 
abound, and rain clears them away. Lacking the 
genial rains to do this work, we must take it in hand 
ourselves, with careful hand-picking or washing them 
off, which can best be done by taking hold of each 
spray and washing off the green fly with a small soft 
painter's brush and clean water, or weak quassia water. 
The next best remedy is fumigating with tobacco 
smoke. Let the plants be dry when you use the 
fumigator, and, if it be practicable, cover the head of 
each with a paper bag before it is operated on. Every 
florist should own Brown's fumigator. Take care that 
the tobacco does not break into a flame ; examine the 
plants the next morning, and repeat the dose if ne- 
cessary. Plants in a frame or pit can easily be placed 



174 FLOWEES AND THE FLOWER GAEDEiq". 

near together and fumigated en masse. Afterwards 
syringe freely. 

The Rose Tortrix, Tortrix Bergmanniana, is a destruc- 
tive grub, the butterfly of which is as small as a house 
fly, and very dark. Hand-picking is the best remedy, and 
this must be done with the greatest care, for^ on the 
least warning, the grub will drop with a fine thread 
and escape. 

The bright and beautiful Eose Beetle is mischievous 
in both stages, and luckily it can easily be caught, 
being large, and not very active. 

The Coccus, or scale insect, chiefly infests greenhouses 
and indoor plants. The females are inert, adhering to 
leaves or stems ; and the males are winged, resembling 
gnats, but exceedingly minute. Clearing them ofl" with 
a brush is most effectual, and fumigating with turpen- 
tine gets rid of them. 

Similar in character, and amenable to the same treat- 
ment, are the Oleander Scale, Aspidiolus nerii, which 
attacks oleanders, acacias, palms, aloes, and such like ; 
the Eose Scale, A. roses; the Cactus Scale, A, echino- 
cactus ; and the Sweet Bay Scale^ A, lauri. 

The caterpillars of many butterflies and moths are 
destructive in the flower garden, and when the perfect 
insects can be caught before they lay their eggs one 
death will save much killing. Whenever one is found 
resting quietly on a branch, stem or leaf, with the wings 
folded, it is most likely a female about to lay her eggs, 
and it had better be killed. If a butterfly or moth is 
found so placed, dead, she will have laid the eggs, which 
should be searched for and destroyed. As the season 
advances destroy chrysalises, if you can find them. 

The grubs of many beetles are also destructive in 
flower gardens. 

The Earwig, Forficula auricularis, is very mischievous 
among dahlias, pinks, carnations, and many other 
flowers and their seeds. Earwigs eat at night, and in the 
day hide away in dark recesses, so that they may be 
caught by giving them dark hiding places, in which 
they may be looked for and destroyed every morning. 
Small garden pots, crab and lobster claws, pointed bags 



X 



AUGUST. 



175 



of thick dark paper, or any similar contrivance, turned 
upside down on sticks, will catch a great many. 

Slugs, snails, centipedes and wood lice, are all very 
injurious. 

After naming so many things which must be destroyed 
for the preservation of our flowers, a few words may be 
said on the more agi^eeable subject of those denizens of 
the garden, the lives of which should be spared, because, 
innocent themselves, they kill destroyers. First among 
these are frogs and toads; I ought to say toads and 
frogs, for the toads I believe are the more active in 
eating injurious creatures in the garden — slugs, snails, 
caterpillars, grubs, moths, and millipedes. By all means 
spare the lives of the toads and frogs, and let them be 
defended from injury. Catch one and put him wherever 
the destructive wood lice abound, and you will find out 
his merits. 

Moles are valuable in eating noxious grubs, so they 
should be treated with mercy, although they must be 
banished from under the lawn. Hedgehogs do good in 
the garden, eating beetles, snails and slugs, and some- 
times mice, which are very mischievous in eating any 
seeds that eat nice — bulbs, and some other roots. Young 
chickens must be kept safe from them. The shrew 
mouse is an insect eater, and not a root and seed eater, 
like the destructive field mouse. Bats also eat cock- 
chafers (one of the most destructive among insects), 
moths, and such like winged things. 

Snakes, slow worms, and lizards, are all industrious 
destroyers of slugs, and do no harm to counterbalance 
this great good. So by all means let them live. 

The pretty little lady bii^d should be respected and 
cherished as the great enemy to, and devourer of, the 
aphides. I believe the perfect insects, as well as 
their larvm eat these pests of the flower garden. The 
larvce are flattish, fleshy grubs, tapering to the tail ; they 
have no legs, but are very active. 

Mole crickets disturb the earth a little, but they de- 
vour grubs. Glowworms eat snails, and their relative, 
DriliLs flavescens, does the same. All beetles are not to 
be condemned, as some of them are enemies to the 



17G FLOWEES AND THE ELOWEE GJlEDEN. 



flower garden's worst enemies — rose beetles, cockchafers, 
wireworms, slugs and snails (skipjacks are wireworms in 
another stage). These useful creatures are some of the 
ground beetles, the tiger beetle, rove beetles (popularly 
known as cocktails and devil's coach-horses), and two 
kinds of silpha. One of the weevil family, Anthrihus 
albinus, feeds on the scale insect. 

Bees of various kinds, so useful in spreading pollen, 
do no harm in the garden that I am aware of. The 
ichneumons and the sand wasp destroy caterpillars in 
great numbers. Even some caterpillars feed only on 
noxious weeds, but Mr. Wood says : "It maybe assumed 
that every subterranean larva in a garden is obnoxious, 
and may safely be destroyed." The grubs of the lace 
wing fly, and the hawk fly, feed entirely on spiders. 
Spiders also may be spared. 

These few remarks on insects, and other garden 
"friends and foes," extend over all the months between 
the first gleams of warmth and the time when insect 
depredations are curbed by winter frosts. 

August work in the garden embraces minute attention 
to order in all departments — pruning, tying, restraining, 
taking cuttings as good ones present themselves, weed- 
ing beds, lawns and paths, and watering with judgment 
when it is necessary. 

Summary. — Keep everything in perfect order. 



CHAPTER XXYIL 

GARDEN OPERATIONS IN SEPTEMBER. 

To retain the flower beds in continued beauty it is 
most important to cut all withered flowers, and to cut in 
stems of too rampant a growth whenever it can be done 
without giving a check. Also be careful to gather seed 
pods before they swell, wherever neglect in gathering 
dead flowers has allowed them to form. Constant little 
attention of this kind to the flower bed wdli keep them 
gay until quite late in the year. 

The plants which are intended to produce seed should 



SEPTEMBEE. 



177 



not be allowed to go on until the best bloom is past ; 
but the finest flower on the finest plant should be 
marked while in its full prime, at whatever season that 
may occur. The plant should then have plenty of room 
given it, a mulching of manure if it be considered ad- 
visable, and all the flowers not wanted for seed should 
be plucked to give full strength to the few. A dry day 
should be carefully chosen for gathering seed. As soon 
as the seed is taken some Clarkias, Nemophilas, Collin- 
sias and Candytufts may be sovrn now, and the plants 
kept through the winter, as their seed never produces 
such fine plants as when it is sow"n as soon as it is ripe. 
Also sow^ Godetias, Lupimis Xanus, Gilia tricolor, Lep- 
tosipJion androsaceus and Densijiora, and Tiscaria ocit- 
lata. Seed of Ranunculuses and the Cruciferae will 
keep four years. Capsicum seed will keep good for 
several yeai^s if kept in the pod, but will seldom grow 
the second year if taken from it. Mignonette seed will 
do several years old ; wallflower may be two years old ; 
sweet peas and lupines should be used at one year old. 
Larkspur will not do well after the second year. Princes 
feather and poppies will keep several years. As a rule, 
however, it is better not to depend on old seed. 

As the old hot-beds of the year are done with, and 
done away with, put up good reserve heaps of com- 
posts of difl'erent kinds, fit for all choice plants, for 
potting, and for making cuttings, taking care to mix 
them well, to turn them over to mellow^ to pick out 
grubs and wire-worms, and to shelter them from wet. 
Much of the success of next year's flowers will depend 
on having good stores of composts of various kinds, to 
go to for their use. Do not forget a store of good 
turfy loam. The making of cuttings for good stores of 
plants must be actively carried on. Commence with 
white, scarlet, and purple verbenas, taking nice stubby 
side shoots. Lots of such cuttings may be taken with- 
out materially interfering with the flowering plants. 
Fill three-inch pots quite full of the cuttings, place them 
on ashes or sand with a frame over them, and they 
can be shifted into larger pots in January or February ; 

IT 



178 



PLOWEES AND THE FLOWEE GAEDEK. 



top them for cuttings, if more are wanted then. 
After these may follow the heliotropes, and plants of 
that kind, later scarlet geraniums, and, in October, 
calceolarias. 

This month and the following, beds will have to be 
made for different choice flowers which are planted in 
autumn, and many bulbs may be put in. At the end 
of the month frost must be watched for with care. The 
dahlias had better be earthed up over their crowns, that 
they may not be caught and spoiled by sudden frost. 

The choicer geraniums had better be taken up and 
potted at the first threatening of frost, and put in a dry 
place, where they will be safe from frost. If they can 
be placed on gentle bottom heat in a pit, they will soon 
be established, and can then be stored away in winter 
quarters. Where it is necessary to take up showy, 
tender plants rather early, their place can be supplied 
with chrysanthemums coming forward, and any spare 
winter blooming plants there may be in reserve. 

Anne Boleyn pinks, cloves, and carnations, will 
flower nicely in autumn and winter under glass, almost, 
if not quite, without heat, if they are prevented bloom- 
ing in summer by nipping off the flower stems as they 
appear. 

Pm-chases of bulbs should be made in good time to 
prevent disappointment from indifferent supply from a 
well picked over stock, of which we have no right to 
complain, if it arises from oiu* own remissness in send- 
ing our orders. 

Transplant evergreens this month, that the trees or 
shrubs may make fresh roots before the check of 
winter. If moved in September they will be much less 
likely to suffer in the spring than if the work is de- 
layed. Deciduous trees and shrubs must, of course, 
not be removed until they have lost their leaves. Many 
plants should be shifted now, that they may make root 
before winter. All the autumn flowering plants will 
require constant attention in putting stakes, sticks, and 
ties, as not a flower now must be lost for want of care. 

SuMMABY. — Cut off dead flowers, and attend to the 



OCTOBES. 



179 



neatness of the beds and borders. Gather ripe seeds, 
and sow some kinds. Make collections of composts for 
choice plants. Plant cuttings ; make beds for bulbs 
and choice flowers. Earth over the crowns of dahlias. 
Watch for early frost to save tender plants. Pinks and 
carnations to flow^er late and in winter. Purchase 
bulbs. Transplant evergreens. Ee-pot. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

GARDEN OPERATIONS IN OCTOBER. 

Try by some means or other to get a nice stack of fibry 
turf to mingle and mellow for future use, and pack over 
it a thatch of good square cut turf, it will prove a store 
worth anything at from one year old onwards. Cow 
manure, too, should be laid up in store, to come into 
use Avhen two years old. These are only two of many 
items to be needed for making valuable composts. 

When October begins, frost in real earnest must be 
expected at any time and prepared for. After the 
foliage of the dahlias is cut down^ tliey may remain 
a short time still in the ground, and then the roots 
must be taken up. Preparation must be made for 
protecting tender plants and climbers, as it may become 
necessary to defend them any night, with very short 
notice. Preparation of protective materials may em- 
ploy bad days ; look over and arrange mats of all kinds, 
and make any covers of reed, straw, &c., that may be 
useful. Hardy creepers may be made snug by neat, 
close training, and have rampant sti^aggling sprays 
removed. Do the pruning of tender sorts at twice or 
thrice. Taking up and potting all choice plants which 
frost would hurt, must be systematically proceeded wdth. 
The newly potted geraniums and other plants should, 
if possible, be placed on mild bottom heat, to start the 
roots before being put by in winter quarters. If chrys- 
anthemums, and some other plants in flower, are 
protected from the first frosts, they may yet go on and 

N 2 



180 TLOWEES A^TD THE ELOWER GARDE>". 



bloom, and look gay for a long time. Cut down holly- 
hocks, and daub tar on the cut stems to keep out wet. 

Take up all the old scarlet geraniums there can 
possibly be found winter room for, because old plants 
will flower earlier and more abundantly than the plants 
from cuttings. If they are taken up early, and potted 
in pots just large enough to hold the roots, cuttings 
may afterwards be taken from them. 

Set in order all the flower beds and borders. Cut 
down abundantly, and pull up all dead and dying 
annuals, thin the shrubberies and screens, and clear 
away dead and untidy looking matter of all kinds. 
Carefully collect all this mass of foliage, chopping up 
with a bill-hook such tough stuff as hollyhock stems, 
and collecting dead leaves, as many as can be got 
together, daily. This, even in a garden of medium size, 
will soon be a large quantity. Throw^ it all in a heap, 
pack it together, and turn it about, so that it w411 heat ; 
for slight hot-beds, w^ith inexpensive frames over them, 
will cost very little, and the more you can have the 
better will be your show of fine flow^ers next year, for 
all the year round, with only a little management and 
forethought. 

All herbaceous plants that have grown too large, and 
straggling in growth, should be taken up, have the roots 
divided, and be planted about, wdiere they will produce 
the best effect. Double rockets, purple and white, 
should be so lifted, and put in a new spot once a year. 
On no account put off transplanting evergreens ; 
common rhododendrons will move well. 

When the beds are cleared make provision for gaiety 
in spring by planting narcissus, hyacinths, turban 
ranunculus and tulips. Beds of these edged with 
crocuses of different colours look very nice. Abundance 
of spring flowers, too, may be planted— primroses, 
polyanthus roots, alyssum, candytuft, arabis, and 
aubrietia, will be done with in time to m.ake room for 
bedding plants next year. Plant also early tulips, 
hardy cyclamens, hepaticse, red, white, and blue, snow- 
drops, winter aconites, and dog's-tooth violets. Do not 



NOYEMBER AND DECEMEEE. 



181 



forget to make the borders gay with plenty of free 
blooming common roots, such as wallflowers, Canter- 
bury bells, sweet Williams, foxgloves, fine Veronicas, 
and all kinds of showy, handsome perennials. 

As many simply-made hot-beds as there can be found 
room, material, and frames for, will be quite sure to get 
filled with advantage. Make the bottom of the beds 
below the level of the ground, and, to drain it, lay in 
nine inches thickness of dry litter, such as the straw 
with the manure shaken out. Over this spread a little 
older litter, and tread it down well ; then a few inches 
thickness of half-decayed leaf-mould, and collected 
stuff of that kind, with a little earth, and a wheel- 
barrowful of lime, all well mixed together, to get rid of 
worms, &c., this also trodden down w^ell. Over all 
place a sufficient thickness of light earth, if it is for 
cuttings, and if for keeping potted plants tan, cinder, 
ashes, or any medium in w^hich to plunge them, or a 
thin layer for them to stand upon. A bed can be made 
out of sight whenever the requisite material presents 
itself. 

Summary. — Lay up material for composts. Prepare 
for winter by protecting, taking up, potting, and pruning 
in climbers. Set the flower beds in order, collect 
material for hot-beds, divide roots, move evergreens 
(if not done), and plant the garden wdth a view to gay 
flowers in the spring. Make hot-beds when the neces- 
sary material is ready. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

GARDEN OPERATIONS IN NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER. 

Little remains to be done before the end of the year 
but to look to the last month's work and see that nothing 
is left undone ; no choice plant intended to stay out the 
winter left without the protection necessary to keep off 
winter frost and wet ; and no cherished flower, which 



182 



TLO^ES A^'^) THE TLOWEE GADEEK. 



should be lifted, forgotten and left to perish in the 
beds. 

Take up the roots of tigridias, dry them, and put 
them away where they will be safe from mice. Except in 
veiy favourable localities seiwe Gladioli the same. Salvia 
patens, French and African mai'igolds, fuchsias, and 
such like, may be kept alive by coverings of finely sifted 
coal-ashes. To bedding plants, cuttings, and most 
plants in pots, future prosperity mainly depends on the 
invigorating supply of air they can get, as long as any 
spirit of growth remains in them ; so give air freely to 
all, as long as the absence of biting frost renders it 
practicable. Sometimes we get httle such before 
Christmas. Water must be given sparingly, only the 
plants must not be allowed positively to suffer for the 
want of it, and take great care not to spill, as the damp 
arising from water on the floors and stages is injurious 
at this season. Give water enough to wet the soil 
(taking care that the drainage is good), and then do not 
give any asfain until it is wanted. 

All alterations should be finished in Xovember. 

When the last month in the year dawns upon us 
more cai'eful protection may be wanted, or very severe 
weather may keep off a month longer. Whenever it 
comes it must be met as if expected. All tender roots 
may be protected with coverings of half-decayed leaves, 
and hardy annuals dusted over with soot, quick-lime, 
and wood-ashes to destroy slugs. Trench vacant ground, 
and leave it rough, to mellow in the frost. 

Sum:j:ary. — See that the work is all well finished up. 
Take up roots of tigridias. c\:c. Protect, where necessary, 
but give plants ni pots as much air as can be= Water 
with care and caution. When very sharp weather comes, 
give more protection. Attend to slugs. Kough dig 
spai'e ground. 



INDEX. 











Page 


Acacia » , , . o • 


. 21 


Balm of Gilead . 




136 




115 


Balsams .... 




125 


African marigold • . « 


. 100 


Barrows .... 




19 


• lily 


. 108 


Bay 




28 




. 99 


Beaton's concrete paths 




11 




. 22 


Bedding plants 




94 


Alocasia metalKca . . . 


. 50 


Beds of flowers 




95 










46 






Belladonnas 




109 




, 109 


to flower early . 




109 


American plants , . . 


. 92 


' in the open air . 




110 




30 


Berberry .... 




29 


Anemone Japonica . . 


. 67 


Bignonia .... 




33 




, 65 


Birch 




23 


Annuals . 116, 117, 118, 


161, 






31 


164, 166, 170 


Box edging . . .10, 


160, 


170 


Annual chrysanthemums 


. 73 






31 


Anomatheca cruenta 


. 114 






147 




129 


Brompton stocks . . 




123 




. 128 






22 




. 26 






67 




. 27 






32 


Arranging . . 159, 160, 


170, 


Bulbs, tubers, &c. 106, 


167, 


178 


172, 176, 178 


, 180 










. 133 






120 




. 25 






45 




85 


Calandrinia umbeilata 




120 


Autumn crocus . . . 


113 


Calathea zebrina, orMaranta 






150 


zebrina 




44 




93 






67 



184 



INDEX. 



Page 

Calceolarias, exMbiting . . 67 

Calla 133, 146 

Callicliroa 120 

Calliopsis, or Coreopsis . ,120 

Campanula 128 

Canary creeper .... 36 

Candytuft 121 

Canterbury bell .... 128 

Catalpa 21 

Caterpillar plant . . . . . 125 
Cedar of Lebanon . . . . 26 
Cedrus deodora . . . . 26 

China asters 123 

Christmas rose . . . .133 
Chrysanthemum . . . 71-73 
Cineraria . . . . 74, 169 

maritima . . . . 41 

Cissus 49 

Cistus 130 

Cladanthus 121 

Clarkia 121 

Clematis 37 

Cobasa scandens .... 33 

variegata ... 34 

Cockscomb 126 

Collinsia 122 

Columbine 128 

Coloured foliage for bedding 97 
Colours for bedding plants . 105 
Compost ground . . . .140 
Composts . 55, 60, 67, 68, 70, 
73,^^ 74, 80, 81, 85, 89, 93, 
177, 179 

Convolvulus major . . .124 

minor 

Copper beech 



Cotoneaster 
Crocuses 
Crotons . 
Crown imperial 



. . 120 
. . 24 
. . 30 

112, 113 
. 47, 48 
. . 113 



Page 

Cupheas 99 

Cuttings . 143, 158, 161, 162 
Cyanophyllum magnificum . 49 
Cyclamens . . . . . .101 

in pots 102 

Daffodils 112 

Dahlias 74 

stakes for . . . 75, 179 

Daisies 135 

Dark foliage plants . . . 93 

Daturas 125 

Deciduous hedges .... 10 

Destroying, avoid. ... 8 
Dielytra spectabilis . . .115 
Digging in sunshine . . .169 

Double cherry 23 

furze 31 

peach 23 

Dracaena 47 

Eccremocarpus . . . . 35 
Eschscholzia . . . . .102 

Eucharidium 121 

Eutocas 121 

Evergreen berberry or Mahonia 29 

hedges 9 

Everlasting peas . . . .133 
Everlastings 124 

Farfugium grande .... 41 

Feather grass 136 

Fernery 150 

Florists' flowers . , . 65, 166 
Flow^ering currant . . . 29 
Flowers for bedding . . 95, 96 
Forms of rose-trees ... 52 
Fountains . . . . , .145 

Foxglove 129 

Frames .... 17, 18, 158 
French mari^rolds .... 100 



INDEX. 



185 



Page 

Fritlllaries 113 

FuclisLos . . . . , 77, 78 

Fumigator 17, 173 

Funkia Sieboldiana ... 41 
Furze waUs 9 

Garden accounts . . . .157 

• friends . . . 175, 176 

operations for the months 

151-182 

rocket 132 

Gaultheria 30 

Gazanea elegans . . . .100 

Genista 133 

Gentianella 132 

Geometric gardens ... 5 

Geraniums 81, 98 

Gladiolus .... Ill, 182 

Godetia 105 

Golden rod 132 

Golden thorn 40 

Gravel walks .... 10, 152 

Greenhouse 137 

Grottos 147 

Guernsey lily 114 

Halesia, or Snowdrop-tree . 30 

Hand glasses 19 

Hawkweed 125 

Hawthorn 22 

Heaths 131 

Heliotrope 100 

Henbane 43 

Hepaticas 132 

Heracleum asperum . . . 43 

giganteum . . . . 43 

Hibiscus Africanus . . .121 

HoUy 24 

seed 24 

Holly, removing large . . 25 



Page 

Hollyhocks .... 126-123 

Honesty 125 

Honeysuckle 37 

Hop Sir 

Horse chestnut . . . . 20 
Horseshoe geraniums . . 98 
Hot-beds 138, 165, 166, 177, ISl 

lining ....... 139 

Hyacinths 78-80 

Hydropult 16 

Hydrangeas 130 

variegated .... 50 

Insects . . 171, 173, 174, 175 
Iresine herbstii .... 98 

Iris .0 108 

Italian gardens .... 4 

Ivy 33 

size of 39 

• variegated . ... 38 

Ixias, Tritonias and Sparaxis 111 

Japan spindle-tree ... 40 
Jonquil 112 

Kalmia 23 

Kaulfusia 121 

Labels 117 

Laburnum 22 

Labyrinth 150 

Landscape gardening ... 2 

Lan tanas 102 

Lai'ch 23 

Larkspur 102 

Laurel 24 

Laurustinus . . . . . 27 
Lawn baskets and vases 148, 171 

Lawns 11, 156 

Leptosi^jhon 103 



186 





Page 










Mnlebing . . • 


. 15S, 171 


lilac - - - 




Mjrtle • • • . 


... 27 




106 








107 


JSisstnirtniins • . 


. . 36, 99 






NemopMIa, « • . 


. . . 103 






Eitrazia ... 


. . . 31 


LOinm ]aiicaf olinm . 


. . 107 


Nmsezy. ... 


. . . 140 


lily of tlie Talley . . 


. . 116 






Taiiegated . 


. . 39 


OlwiIHsicaria . • 


. . . 134 




. . 23 


CRnoilifirsL ■ « • 


. 105, 135 


Liquid maniire . • 


168, 172 


Old-fashioned gaidei 


IS . . 6 


for roses . 


. . 61 


,0sage orange . . 




L : ; 7---';.? . . « • 


. . 98 


Oswego tea. 


... 131 


1. ; 1 ; ^ j — ^ 


. . 35 






L:v-- 


. 23 


Bampas grass . . 


... 26 




. . 122 


Passes .... 


. . - 80 




. . 125 








dying off . 




T - - ; 


. . 122 


PSa^on flower . 
Pa¥etta Bcodoiuea 


. . . £J 
. . . 4S 


1 r . . . ■ : - 


. . 21 


Peas 


... 134 




. 61 


P^^EDg down • . 


97, 170 


1':::::^-^:^ , , , . 


. . 44 


P^^ 'ScBT eamations 


... 70 




. . -34 


Pelaigoninnis . 


... 81 


i:,-,: rz^zz^ . . . 


. . 35 


Pentstenions . 


. 103, 12: 




. . 124 


Perifla Mankinensis 


. . . 41 




, . 


~T:i~~ink!e . , 


... 134: 


yiizz.-~-:-i . . . . 






... 84 




' 


J _.t; ■ : ^-'^ eye. . 


122 








. . . S5 
... 71 


tree , . . . 

Mildew 

T rj , ' ... , 

^r- -■ -- 








- - 






, 1 ■: 1 












Moss-hoiLse . . , . 






... 66 








... 86 








... 70 
... 76 









rSDEX. 



187 



Page 

Points of pansies .... 81 

pelargoniums . . . S2 

pinks 71 

. polyantlius . . . . SS 

rose 64 

tulip 91 

Polyantlius SS 

Narcissus .... 112 

Pomegranate 32 

Poppy 125 

Portugal laurel . . . . 24 

Portulacas 103 

Pots 142, 154 

Potting . . 154, 155, 179 

Primroses 8S 

Chinese 88 

Primulas 85 

Prince's feather . . . .125 
Protection . . . . 164, 179 

Protectors 18 

Pruning roses ..... 62 

Austrian briars . . 63 

Banksian .... 64 

ClotiiofGold ... 64 



French, Moss, Alba, 

Provence, Damask, 
and Austrian . . .63 

Hybrid China and Hy- 
brid Bourbon ... 63 

Hy. Per., Dam. Per., 

Per.Mossand, Bourbon 63 

Tea, Noisette, and China 63 



Ptelea 32 

Rannncnlus 89 

for the garden . . . 90 

to flower in winter . 90 

Peserve plants . . . .167 
Ehodanthe Manglesii . .126 
Rhododendrons .... 94 



Page 

Rhododendron cuttings . . 94 
Rhodora Canadensis ... 94 
Ribbon borders .... 95 

Ribbon grass 136 

Rockwork 143 

Rollers 19 

Root-house 148 

Rose campion . . . .136 
Rose of heaven . . . .121 
Roses .... 51,169,171 

bespeak them early . 60 

budding 57 

for town gardens . . 51 

from cuttings . . . 54 

from seed .... 58 

hybridizing .... 58 

layering 53 

Rose-growers' lists ... 64 

Salpiglossis 124 

Salvias 100 

Sanvitalia 105 

Saponaria 101 

Saving water 20 

Saxifrage 133 

Schizopetalon 121 

Scilla 115 

Scythe 19 

Seats 149 

Seed 176 

sowing . . . 142, 177 

Seedling bulbs .... 106 

Shaping beds 5 

Shears, kc 19 

Silvery foliage plants . . 97 
Single Narcissus . . . .112 

Snail plant 125 

Snake cucumber . . . .125 

Snapdragon 129 

Snow 152 



188 



I^^DEX. 



\ 

»4 



Page 

Snowball-tree, or Guelder rose 27 
Snowliake, or &t. Agnes' flower 115 

Snowberry 30 

Snowdrops 116 

SoHs 13 

Solomon's seal . . . .116 
Sonorila Margaritacea . . 49 
Spergula pilifera . . . 13 
Spiderwort . . . .136 
Spring planting . . . . 1 SO 
Star of BetUeliem . . . 115 
St. Jolin's wort . . . .132 

Stumps 149 

Sumach. . 31 

Summer-houses . . . .149 
Sundries for the garden . . 19 

Sunflower 124 

■ perennial . . . .124 

Sweet peas 125 

Sweet scabious . . . .133 
Sweet William .... 71 
Symmetrical garden . . 5 
Syringa 28 

Tallies ...... 14, 157 

Tan 139 

Tecoma 33 

Tender handsome foliage plants 43 
Ten-weeks stock . • . .122 

Tigridias 182 

Tool-house .... . . 151 

Tools . 15 

Tree mallow 43 

Trees cut to shape . . .171 
Tritoma grandis . . . .110 

uraria . . ' . . . 110 

Tuberose Ill 

Tulips 90-92 



Page 

Tulip-tree ...... 23 

Yariegated coltsfoot ... 39 

ivy S 3 

lily of the valley . . 39 

mezereon . . . . 40 

trees and plants . . 42 

yucca ^ . 

Yenus' looking-glass . . . ii : 

Yerbenas t2 

Yeronica . . . . . . 129 

Yiolets 135 

Yirgim'an creeper . . . . 36 
stock 126 

WaUflower 12;' 

WaUs 

Washing foliage . . . .155 

Water 144 

engines 16 

Watering . . . 137, 168, 182 

Watering-pots 16 

Water plants . . . 146, 147 
Weather for budding roses . 57 

Weigela 32 

WeUingtonia gigantea . . 2': 
Windows .... 141, 154 
Winter aconite . . . .115 

cherry ...... 27 

Wire fencing 9 

Wistaria 34 



Xeranthemum . 

Yucca . . . 

Zephyranthus , 
Zinnea . 



seed 



. . 124 

. 26 

. . 115 

. . 101 



Woodfall and Kinder, Printers, Milford Lane, Strand, London. 



